Peter Hawkings - Designer, Creative Director of Tom Ford

[Nimsay]

^ i also think that looking at the suits and comparing is important

That sleeve on that YSL tux is like the fashion equivalent of seduction. That drape is GORGEOUS. That nipped sculpted waist with darts is criminally chic. Perfectly placed pockets. Sculpted but ease on the chest with a little bit of ease at the shoulder seam… YSL please!!! I can only take so much. That ease and almost flare in the fit if the pant. So chic. The absolute best.
The blonde mans suit is clearly flat pattern made the barrel like arms kinda give that away. Its hard to get an idea of the fit on him because it appears to be too large




Looking at the runyway model. We see the flat pattern nature of the garment very clearly. A almost block of material with a super tight waist and large curved shoulders. High placement of pockets. No volume in the chest just ease.


There are 3 schools of mens tailoring. English French and Italian. All with minor differences. English tailoring is what the current TF looks like. nipped tight waist but not defined hips and almost coatlike shape. This is savile row style. French is more associated with draped shapes not flat pattern made - as seen in this YSL tux with the draped sleeves. This gives it a flou. Italian is like ultra fitted waist and hips. SarahbBurtons mcqueen is very italian in fit.

Talking in broad terms of tailors in those regions and how they created a distinct visual language that are foundation for current fashion analysis.

 

[brandon J pierre]

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I think tom is telling peter how TF jackets should fit and i agree. That guy shouldve worn his jacket closed like a gentleman - also it appears to be maybe a size too big.

touche. god he looks good that deep velvet red is gorgeous

 

[brandon J pierre]

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I think tom is telling peter how TF jackets should fit and i agree. That guy shouldve worn his jacket closed like a gentleman - also it appears to be maybe a size too big.

Is that actor Chris something yeah that suit doesn't fit very well but he looks so goddamn hot look at those big old legs a guy like that it must be tailored perfectly. I'm not sure that suit was cut for him it looks off the rack.

 

[brandon J pierre]

^ i also think that looking at the suits and comparing is important

That sleeve on that YSL tux is like the fashion equivalent of seduction. That drape is GORGEOUS. That nipped sculpted waist with darts is criminally chic. Perfectly placed pockets. Sculpted but ease on the chest with a little bit of ease at the shoulder seam… YSL please!!! I can only take so much. That ease and almost flare in the fit if the pant. So chic. The absolute best.
The blonde mans suit is clearly flat pattern made the barrel like arms kinda give that away. Its hard to get an idea of the fit on him because it appears to be too large


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Looking at the runyway model. We see the flat pattern nature of the garment very clearly. A almost block of material with a super tight waist and large curved shoulders. High placement of pockets. No volume in the chest just ease.


There are 3 schools of mens tailoring. English French and Italian. All with minor differences. English tailoring is what the current TF looks like. nipped tight waist but not defined hips and almost coatlike shape. This is savile row style. French is more associated with draped shapes not flat pattern made - as seen in this YSL tux with the draped sleeves. This gives it a flou. Italian is like ultra fitted waist and hips. SarahbBurtons mcqueen is very italian in fit.

Talking in broad terms of tailors in those regions and how they created a distinct visual language that are foundation for current fashion analysis.

Wonderful lesson.

 

[zoom]

The fit on Chris is honestly despicable. The god awful unbuttoned shirt was shockingly bad. Might have saved it slightly if he'd worn it like the catwalk version but as is, he was a complete fail at the MET. Did Peter really ok this look? Those that said Tom's SL fit was a slap on the wrist to PH are absolutely correct. Shame.

 

[Lola701]

I’m going to defend Peter here because it’s obvious that the man doesn’t like wearing a suit anyway. He would probably prefer wearing a tshirt so from the start, it’s doomed.

The posture is off, he opened the shirt, he looks like he wants to be an gogo dancer of sort. There’s no real sense of formality in it.


And Tom…We know Tom probably had his say on the way his suit should look and feel like on himself.

He dressed Donald Glover for the MET and let me say that it’s probably one of worst suit I have seen in my life on a man.
I think Tom Ford himself should get the praise for the fit of his suit because clearly, menswear is not for Anthony.

 

[Kite]

If we are to believe that Tom Ford didnt have that Jacket completely taken apart and remade by his own trusted tailor you're delusional.

The only thing in that Saint Laurent Jacket thats actually Saint Laurent is the Label.

 

[Phuel]

I am still wondering what Tom sees in Anthony to call him "a great designer"...

Kering money.

Being the CD of such a young, but iconic brand is really a rare opportunity in the way that it's still in its "formative years". Peter makes really beautiful clothes, which seems to doing well for now, but the brand will definitely need to create excitement to thrive for the long term and Tom knows that. These were his exact words on Peter Hawking's debut at Tom Ford, via GQ:

Tom Ford wearing YSL instead of his own brand is definitely a bad look for Peter, so he'll definitely need to step it up with a sexy, high-octane, glamourous show for SS25, if he wants to save himself.

"Hermes for sluts" is definitely the perfect description for the brand. Maybe Peter could start sucking c*ck for inspiration (his wife might not appreciate that though).

LOL "Hermes for sluts" is the cringe side of Tom Ford that’s the equivalent of cool moms everywhere desperately attempting to be down with the kidz. I couldn’t roll my eyes any further back when Tom attempted it for his own brand, and if Peter attempts this then he deserves to see Tom choose Phillip Plein over his Tom Ford for the next MET.

Since he’s already ripping off Tom’s Gucci, just go back to Tom’s Gucci campaigns and remember where the blueblood, purebred sensuality and sexuality came off so effortlessly smouldering, raw, and primal— and still so proper. When you see the the Housewives Of types carrying Birkins these days, there’s nothing covetable about that brand anymore LMFAO Just like people mistaking fashion victims for fashion icons, people are also mistaking nouveau-riche trash for blueblood. Learn the difference, Peter. And there are no more blueblood at the MET, just clowns: women in Disney princess costumes, and men in Disney villain costumes. No wonder Angelina has never attended.

 

[yslforever]

Tom was trying to be Hermes for sluts. I know we like to imagine it but the sluts are not buying anything. Sluts dont have any money - I dont know why a segment of fashion wants rich women dressing like sex workers… Hence why we are here Hermes for Sluts doesnt work.

Hermès for sluts was working, Tom Ford was a darling of Y2K Russia...
Rich women want to feel sl*tty too. sl*tty is ok, vulgar isn't.
If I recall a discussion with Yves, he said his best collections were the ones covering two segments in the same times, the wives and the mistresses (or high-end escorts), so that the same woman can buy the same pieces for her husband and for her lover, or find pieces for both cases in the same collection... or a man can buy pieces for his wife, mistresses or rent-girls too. Those two components must be really well-balanced.
Tom Ford has achieved that balance for a long time.

I’m going to defend Peter here because it’s obvious that the man doesn’t like wearing a suit anyway. He would probably prefer wearing a tshirt so from the start, it’s doomed.

The posture is off, he opened the shirt, he looks like he wants to be an gogo dancer of sort. There’s no real sense of formality in it.


And Tom…We know Tom probably had his say on the way his suit should look and feel like on himself.

He dressed Donald Glover for the MET and let me say that it’s probably one of worst suit I have seen in my life on a man.
I think Tom Ford himself should get the praise for the fit of his suit because clearly, menswear is not for Anthony.

If he doesn't like to wear suits or being dressed up, what this Chris potato-face is doing at the Met Gala ?

 

[yslforever]

Plus Tom Ford might have more in common with Anthony Vacarello than with Peter Hawkings, they are two movie buffs.
Saint Laurent Productions has 2 movies in the upcoming Cannes festival competition (and Anthony is credited :

 

[Lola701]

If he doesn't like to wear suits or being dressed up, what this Chris potato-face is doing at the Met Gala ?

Maybe people from Hollywood went to Anna for this.

Plus Tom Ford might have more in common with Anthony Vacarello than with Peter Hawkings, they are two movie buffs.

I mean, Peter, despite everything was his design director for a longtime and also his wife, Whitney Bromberg was Tom Ford’s personal assistant since the Gucci days…
They have a personal relationship beyond everything.

But yes, Vacarello love of cinema is a common point. Maybe some financing ahead for Tom.
He is a billionaire indeed but it’s also good to use money from people even if working with YSL implies their presence in the films.

 

[yslforever]

Maybe people from Hollywood went to Anna for this.

I mean, Peter, despite everything was his design director for a longtime and also his wife, Whitney Bromberg was Tom Ford’s personal assistant since the Gucci days…
They have a personal relationship beyond everything.

But yes, Vacarello love of cinema is a common point. Maybe some financing ahead for Tom.
He is a billionaire indeed but it’s also good to use money from people even if working with YSL implies their presence in the films.

Anyway that Met gala is a joke, verging on a grotesque carnival, it's more abou costumes than fashion... and the guest list too.
The fall out between Tom and Peter Hawkings sounds severe and not reconciliable now.

 

[LadyJunon]

To be fair, Hawkings' debut show was the first time I've paid attention to the brand in a long time, and I feel like lots of fans are enjoying the reclamation of 90s Gucci. That said, I think that tasteful chic is the only thing he can really do. Vaccarello probably still has a few more years at Saint Laurent (not including the cooldown period after that), so Peter has a considerable amount of time before Ford tries to pull a YSL on him.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

The posture is off, he opened the shirt, he looks like he wants to be an gogo dancer of sort. There’s no real sense of formality in it.

What's funny is that something like this, Tom would have used to his advantage to up the crassness into something rather suave and chic with a good dose of humour.

The top half is fine for what it is and who it is for (the vest should have been left behind though if I'm being honest), I'm more offended by the fit of those pants. Also don't thing this is the right colour for Chris at all. No matter what, Chris will always be more of an "unbuttoned shirt" kind of guy and they should have known that. It could have have made sense with the rest, but the awful decision to keep the vest and have those pants fit like they do is just criminal. Tom's pants however fit like a dream.

I personally like the wider lapels for Chris though. He's a bigger guy so going something smaller would look silly on him.

 

[NYLA22]

Anyway that Met gala is a joke, verging on a grotesque carnival, it's more abou costumes than fashion... and the guest list too.
The fall out between Tom and Peter Hawkings sounds severe and not reconciliable now.

I'm quite surprised Tom went actually, as he has said similar things about the gala and I was under the impression he'd be embarrassed to attend.

 

[Lola701]

I'm quite surprised Tom went actually, as he has said similar things about the gala and I was under the impression he'd be embarrassed to attend.

He criticized the way people dressed not the Gala or exhibition itself after all.
And if one thing he stays coherent. He has never dressed his guests in clothes related to the exhibition.

And we all know he is friend and supporter of Anna…

What's funny is that something like this, Tom would have used to his advantage to up the crassness into something rather suave and chic with a good dose of humour.

The top half is fine for what it is and who it is for (the vest should have been left behind though if I'm being honest), I'm more offended by the fit of those pants. Also don't thing this is the right colour for Chris at all. No matter what, Chris will always be more of an "unbuttoned shirt" kind of guy and they should have known that. It could have have made sense with the rest, but the awful decision to keep the vest and have those pants fit like they do is just criminal. Tom's pants however fit like a dream.

I personally like the wider lapels for Chris though. He's a bigger guy so going something smaller would look silly on him.

Tom would have used it to his advantage if Chris came as his guest.
We saw the huge difference between Hugh Jackman dressed in Tom Ford and Chris dressed in Tom Ford. Clearly one had more influence on his stylist and the other paid respect to the designer.

 

[disco54]

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I think tom is telling peter how TF jackets should fit and i agree. That guy shouldve worn his jacket closed like a gentleman - also it appears to be maybe a size too big.

The beige suit is a mess, when your doing these big lapel blazers you need more sharper shoulders and padding, with a straight cut but roomy pant, in the way men wore suits in the 30s/40s , the cut of the pants here esp in beige are atrocious, they way they bunching up on the ankle looks terrible.



This is a good example of big lapel suits done well by Pilati almost 20 years back