Sarah Burton - Designer

[Lola701]

i can’t see mcqueen being anywhere near as demanding as dior was.

KERING has exactly the same expectations for McQueen that Arnault had for Dior in the 90’s. The only difference was maybe that Arnault was a bit more « naive » and the structure of Dior as a corporate entity wasn’t as strong as it is today…Dior was a small company.

But with the top brands of the group and literally the majority of the group in a uncertainty in terms of growth, the goal for KERING is to now have a bunch of super brands (which means + 1 billion each except for Brioni) that will grow and create some sort of stability for the shareholders.

It may be interesting for a creative point of view (for me it’s not…Galliano has more to offer ) but believe me that Alexander McQueen in 2023 is more demanding than Dior in 2000/2010.

The name Galliano will create a buzz and attention. This is the brand that is dressing Kate Middleton after all. The status of McQueen has changed…Which is why, slow sales now mean a change of CD.


I think Sarah Burton may have lacked in passion and Drama but her interpretation of McQueen was focused and modern. It somehow allowed the house to become a brand.

I love John but I’m not nostalgic at all of the madhouse days. It was good back then but trying to recreate the spirit of the past is not my thing. The world is less sympathetic to creativity than it was before. I like the idea of him taking ownership of his own brand though and maybe operating on a more confidential scale.

 

[TianCouture]

I think she's a wonderful, brilliantly talented seamstress, tailor, pattern-maker — whatever. But I hope she retires

 

[Joromana]

Wouldn't be surprised if they went with someone like Iris Van Herpen or Coperni, tbh. Curious to see where Sarah Burton goes next.

 

[gallianostan]

Wouldn't be surprised if they went with someone like Iris Van Herpen

 

[blueorchid]

Get the 3D printers ready!

 

[Lola701]

Wouldn't be surprised if they went with someone like Iris Van Herpen or Coperni, tbh. Curious to see where Sarah Burton goes next.

Tbh her time has passed…And the Coperni guys have delivered gimmicks so far.

I can see them continuing with the « no star designer » policy they seems to enjoy.
They are cheaper and they « on paper » have less ego.

Considering that they hired a successions of number two, it can be literally anybody.

 

[PierreGotha]

Lee and Sarah have cast a very wide shadow. To however is her successor, expectations are highly poised. Both in its ability for commercial success and the continuity of the House's identity.

This person needs to be aware that it is going to inherit a House that is in need of an overdue reawakening.

 

[Mathewthew]

Maybe they can promote someone from the team, I know some amazing experienced designer is working there.
I believe the role is a tough hire, because they need a "real" designer who understand the construction of clothing and being creative. It's not an easy task....

 

[tourbillions]

Havent they been hiring a lot of interns or atleast doing group works with students, they have some kind of intern project in the house. Maybe one of those was ready to be CD which allowed Burton to finally step out.

 

[Joromana]

Oh I don't want them at McQueen, just with how disappointing some of these new appointments can be, I wouldn't be surprised.

 

[gallianostan]

i think it would be doubly disappointing, and borderline offensive, if someone like iris van herpen got the job considering she's been trotting out mindless imitations of his plato's atlantis looks for the last ten years.

 

[IndigoHomme]

A new nightmare unblocked: Alessandro Michele is floating there without job and searching something to do

LOL

No, seriously, I hope Kering can bring the opportunity to someone who deserves a comeback to the scene (Haider, van Assche...)

 

[perhydrol]

Michele is said to be part of the revival of Walter Albini, I think it's save to exclude him from the list for now. Same with the Coperni guys, they don't have the much-needed skills to lead the brand (or any brand except for their own overpriced fashion nova) and it's more than obvious. I know Kering is messy with their appointments, but I don't think they would ever consider Dilara or Iris van Herpen, either. They want to turn McQueen into a $1 billion brand after all, that's why their creative director's commercial pieces have to be appealing to the consumers and yet, stay true to the vision, because people have extremely high expectations.

I'm pretty sure they'll promote someone internally or find a more conservative designer a'la Burton to carry on with the 10-year plan.

 

[Lola701]

Michele is said to be part of the revival of Walter Albini, I think it's save to exclude him from the list for now. Same with the Coperni guys, they don't have the much-needed skills to lead the brand (or any brand except for their own overpriced fashion nova) and it's more than obvious. I know Kering is messy with their appointments, but I don't think they would ever consider Dilara or Iris van Herpen, either. They want to turn McQueen into a $1 billion brand after all, that's why their creative director's commercial pieces have to be appealing to the consumers and yet, stay true to the vision, because people have extremely high expectations.

I'm pretty sure they'll promote someone internally or find a more conservative designer a'la Burton to carry on with the 10-year plan.

I really don’t believe in the success of that Walter Albini revival but who knows…

Your comment reminded me at the same time that an established can also help those sales to jump quickly. When Stefano left, YSL was a 500 M brand and when Hedi left, it was already a 1B brand.

The funny thing is that Balenciaga and McQueen have been for so long in the « Other brands » sections of their financial reports. Those brands, despite being profitable are still quite fragile to be considered super champions.

I think what is happening at Gucci and YSL should be a learning lesson for KERING. Michele has had an amazing moment at Gucci, the sales were extraordinary but it didn’t stand the test of time. At YSL however, in the same time frame as Michele (7 years), Vaccarello is having a less spectacular tenure in terms of sales but it’s healthier because it’s steady.

I think beyond who can do good for the brand, it should be about a long term vision.

And I don’t know if P&G still has the license for the perfumes but if not, McQueen can be the perfect brand to introduce KERING Beauté.

 

[LadyJunon]

I'm currently rewatching Alexander McQueen's pre-Kering shows (up to FW01) and I feel also feel a wave of sadness every time I see the original McQueen studio team in the credits. Burton was still "Sarah Heard" at that point, so it really shows how such an important role she had in the development of McQueen as a brand.

 

[gallianostan]

I'm currently rewatching Alexander McQueen's pre-Kering shows (up to FW01) and I feel also feel a wave of sadness every time I see the original McQueen studio team in the credits. Burton was still "Sarah Heard" at that point, so it really shows how such an important role she had in the development of McQueen as a brand.

i'm curious what your favourites are?

 

[Constructionist]

I think she's a wonderful, brilliantly talented seamstress, tailor, pattern-maker — whatever. But I hope she retires

This is incredibly mean.

 

[LadyJunon]

i'm curious what your favourites are?

Chronologically, my personal favourites are:
SS97 - Bellmer La Poupée
SS98 - Golden Shower
SS99 - Nº13
AW99 - The Overlook
SS00 - Eye
AW00 - Eshu
SS01 - Voss
If I was to include post-acquisition shows, I'd also add:
SS02 - A Dance Of A Twisted Bull
AW03 - Scanners
AW04 - Pantheon As Lecum
I don't really care too much about the shows and collections he did after that. Most of them feel too trite and over-produced (Plato Atlantis is the worst of them all). His earlier collections had to be more essentialist and they were better for it.

 

[eugenius]

I hope that no matter what she does, she goes as far away from the industry as possible. She never really seemed all that comfortable as being the head of a major brand like McQueen, so I hope she finds peace in a position where she can create beautiful clothes, but without the hullaballoo & demands of the world of high-fashion.

Once Charles kicks the bucket and Kate becomes queen, won't she need her own personal dressmaker?

 

[PierreGotha]

Everyone on social media is making a big fuss about Dilara being appointed.
I honestly think she wouldn't be a good fit.

Her approach seems to look more ad hoc and she's more of a swimwear and lingerie designer (at the core). These factors conflict with what the McQueen brand demands.

I've also seen her custom pieces for Lady Gaga and Madonna, they're passable yet unremarkable. Therefore her cutting and tailoring capability is still lacking and needs significant improvement.