1879-1944 Paul Poiret

[SomethingElse]

The Parisian designer, Paul Poiret (1879 - 1944), was perhaps the most influential couturier of the early twentieth century, bursting upon the fashion scene in 1903 when he opened his own house on the Rue Auber. His 1908 collection looked directly to neo-classical models, minimising the effect of the corset or of tightly fitted garments; and then in 1910 he launched his scandalous harem trousers for women, only furthering his fame. He is now celebrated for his hobble skirts (as copied in the outfits in the images below), and also for his love of the Orient and the Near East. Poiret was inspired by the vibrant Moorish or Indian patterns, fabrics and motifs, including them in his collections.

This scarlet silk robe, brocaded with metal threads and silks was retailed by Poiret's fashion house in about 1912. However, it is actually an India textile which had been made up as a coat in Uzbeckistan or Turkestan for local consumption. It was imported directly by Poiret's agents to France, and then retailed by him after slight alterations with braiding and gussets for European sizing, and an added label. This simple recycling from one culture to another shows the popularity of "exoticism" in Europe around 1910, an influence which seems as strong today.

manchestergalleries.org

 

[SomethingElse]

1910-11 Beige silk satin dress with silk tulle overdress; embroidery of polychrome beads and gold thread; gold tulle peplum.

In the beginning of the twentieth century, the popularization of automobiles and a new fascination with sports were just some of the developments that resulted in a whole new lifestyle. Increasingly active and mobile, women sought functional clothing. In 1906, Paul Poiret rejected the use of a corset, designing a dress with an elevated waistline that shifted the center of gravity from the waist to the shoulders. A tide of criticism against tight corsets had risen in the late nineteenth century, but it wasn’t until the early twentieth century that haute couture in Paris established a new mode free from the tyranny of the corset. Despite developments in high fashion, corsets didn’t entirely fall out of fashion until the end of World War I.

In this period, “Japonism,” a fascination with Japanese art, arose as a natural outcome of Japan’s late nineteenth century introduction to the West. Exotic events in Paris during the time, such as the sensational debut of the Ballets Russes, helped establish a wave of Orientalism, in which Japonism played an essential role. Orientalism came to exert a powerful influence on the selection of colors and forms in fashion.

kci.or.jp

 

[SomethingElse]

(Translated from the French "Evêque" (meaning "Bishop"). Summer ensemble blouse and girdled skirt, c. 1907.

lesartsdecoratifs.fr

 

[SomethingElse]

(Translated from the French "Printemps" (meaning "Spring"). Summer ensemble, wrapped girdled and cape, c. 1919.

lesartsdecoratifs.fr

 

[SomethingElse]

(Translated from the French "Flammes". Wrap breeches "with the sultana" and wraps short, c. 1911.

lesartsdecoratifs.fr

 

[SomethingElse]

Cardigan, about 1918.

lesartsdecoratifs.fr

 

[DosViolines]

Those are some great finds

The cardigan from post #126 is magnificent!

 

[shopsmuch]

I went today to see it and I really wasn't that impressed. I think for the most part I don't like Orientalism in fashion and that accounts for about 50% of the stuff.
My favorite were the 2 animations showing the draping and the coat made entirely of one piece of fabric and one seam.
Also the reciept/bill of sale would be something awesome to have framed.
I think it is more about recognizing what he did for fashion in terms of design and business moreso than the actual pieces in the exhibit being something beautiful.

these are pretty much my sentiments. i really apreciated seeing the clothing--but the it didn't actually appeal to me, i didn't find most of the pieces particularly beautiful or like something i would want to wear (though there were a few...). i wished that i could've touched it, examined the seams, but of course that's not possible.
i don't know if anyone would be interested, but the uber-nerd that i am, i took a ton of close-up photos of the clothes. i would post them all if i knew people were interested. anyone?

 

[DosViolines]

i don't know if anyone would be interested, but the uber-nerd that i am, i took a ton of close-up photos of the clothes. i would post them all if i knew people were interested. anyone?

Yes, please do, my fellow nerd

 

[SomethingElse]

Yes, please do!!

 

[SomethingElse]

(Translated from the French Puppet, "The Scot", 1915.

Source link in case French speakers wish to read the article. It is very interesting! http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/fr/00artsdecoratifs/02collections/2005_11.html

 

[SomethingElse]

Who knew? Designed by M. Poiret for Atelier Martine.

(Translated 1912 Kampuchean armchair.

(Translated 1912 Side table.

Link to the explanatory article / source: http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/fr/00artsdecoratifs/02collections/2005_12.html

 

[SomethingElse]

(Translated 1906 Summer evening gown.

Link to the article that includes the cardigan and other clothes I previously posted: http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/fr/00artsdecoratifs/02collections/2005_10.html

 

[MissMagAddict]

A Grand Affair
The Met Gala ~ Paul Poiret
By William Norwich






source: scanned by MMA

 

[GBArt]

Great thread. I've always been a Cristobal Balenciaga fan when it comes to pure elegance. But Poiret was amazing, and the sheer variety of his work is stunning. What an imagination!

Thanks to all posters.

GB

 

[liberty33r1b]

thanks so much for posting the vogue scans, MissMagAddict!!!!!

 

[liberty33r1b]

It's the first piece on this page

great, thanks. i see it's still selling for $7500, i'd buy it if i had the money, i really would. what a piece of art!

 

[DosViolines]

Paul Poiret
1924

Coat of black wool lined in red crepe. Trim on coat consists of edging of gold metallic braid and gilded leather. The side closure is accented with leather fringe terminating from button. Accent includes black wool with raised stitiching on gored skirt, sleeves and body of coat.

dlxs.lib.wayne.edu

 

[DosViolines]

Paul Poiret
Evening chemise
Gold silk chiffon, beads, and rhinestones
Circa 1926, France
The Museum at FIT, P83.5.9, Museum purchase
Paul Poiret was known for exotic ornamentation applied to the classic silhouette of the 1920s. Although the line of this dress is simple and the hemline youthful, the sumptuous beadwork still conveys the quality of excess traditionally associated with luxury.

fitnyc

 

[SomethingElse]

Printed Silk Dress, c. 1921

whitakerauction.com