1899-1935 Boué Soeurs

[SomethingElse]

It appears that there isn't a thread yet. I'll need help on their dates.

beverlybirks.com

 

[SomethingElse]

Evening gown from Boué Soeurs, Paris c. 1923-25.

dragt.dk

 

[SomethingElse]

French dressmakers. The two Boué sisters were born in Toulon, Sylvie in 1880 and Jeanne in 1881. But it was in Paris that they started their dressmaking activity at the turn of the new century, and soon proved to be masters in the creation of lace dresses worked on transparencies. They were careful managers and between 1916 and 1922 opened ateliers in New York, London, and Bucharest. They retired in 1935.

Well there's the second date!

Apparently, they had a presence in the film world. For example, she collaberated with Leon Bakst on the film "Kœnigsmark" in 1923. And I think there is a 1919 film of their dresses. I'll see if I can find the title. Parisian somethingorother...

 

[SomethingElse]

1920s Day Dress.

trocadero.com

 

[SomethingElse]

Court presentation dress of white net embroidered in silver cord over pink chiffon trimmed with silk ribbon flowers. French, 1928.

columbia.edu

 

[SomethingElse]

Biographical information here.

The Boué sisters had one of the most recognizable styles in fashion. They were known as the "Seagulls of Lace". Their popularity was greatest in America, and they made 6 to 8 sea crossings every year from France to America.

In 1899 the Paris house was founded by two sisters Madame Sylvie Montegut (born 1880) and Baronne Jeanne d'Etreillis (born 1881) both of who had the maiden name of Boué. In 1916, they opened their New York house.
Madame Sylvie seems to have been the artistic spirit and Jeanne travelled around the world to gather inspiration and promote their clothes. The Boué sisters made great use of light-refracting silver and gold cloth, purchased from theatrical supply houses. They had their own Lame fabric made and embroideries with silver and gold threads. Another house signature was floral patterned lace. Embroidery was done in Venice on sheer organdie, to make entire "lingerie" dresses, popular throughout the 20's. Dhoop-chaon taffeta was also used to make different hues shine at different times.
Their perfume QUAND LES FLEURS REVENT was made at their ancient Chateau de Maison Rouges outside Paris. Their house closed around 1933.

They were renowned for their romantic designs which often borrowed details from historical paintings. Their garments were often reminiscent of underwear, made of paper taffetas, silk organdies and ornately decorated.

fashionmodeldirectory.com

 

[DosViolines]

I finally have something to contribute:

Two Boue Souers Tops, Early 20th C.

whitakerauction

 

[SomethingElse]

Evening Gown, c. 1915.

whitakerauction.com

 

[DosViolines]

Boué Soeurs hand-embroidered nightgown, 1920s

Boué Soeurs' lingerie was recognized for its surpassing beauty and originality. The exquisite floral designs of the two sisters, Sylvie and Jeanne, were pure flights of fancy; hence their nickname, "seagulls of lace."

The French couture house of Boué Soeurs, located at 9 Rue de la Paix, also maintained a New York branch at 13 West 56th Street. It was the ultimate source for an exquisite handmade trousseau during the 1920s. Ethereal fairy-tale designs, impeccable hand work, and signature silk ribbon rosettes were Boué staples.

The nightgown is completely hand sewn. It closes in back with thread loops and small self-covered buttons. It is beautiful enough to be worn as a dress. The fourth picture down shows the refinement and delicacy of the peerless Boué style.

Produced in Venice, the hand embroidery on the front and hem borders is executed on sheer ivory organdy. The back of the nightgown is matching silk crepe de chine. The straps are silk satin ribbon. The bands of handmade filet and Valenciennes lace were produced by the in-house staff of lace makers.

The trousseau is making a comeback. When Catherine de Medici married into the French royal family in 1547, the Pope, her uncle, confiscated money needed to fortify Florence to pay for her elaborate trousseau. You will not have to go that far if you choose as the centerpiece of your trousseau this exemplar of fine lingerie from a major French couture house.

vintagetextile

First set of images

 

[DosViolines]

Second set of images (#9)

vintagetextile

 

[ultramarine]

Hum .. theres this design duo .. they make clothes out of goat whiskers .. some russian craft method ... they reminded me of this pieces SO much!

 

[DosViolines]

Boue Soeurs Gold Lace Robe de Style
French, circa 1925
Of gold blonde style lace, with gold lame underslip, the dress sleeves, sewn with side hoops below waist, the bodice and skirt elaborately embroidered with signature ribbonwork flowers, turquoise ribbon bands at center front extending and around hem and down each side, alluding to open robe, the hem further embellished with bead fringe, gold rope belt with tassels at waist, delicate tendril with one flower at bodice back

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Boue Soeurs Evening Ensemble
French, 1920s
Of ecru lace, the long chemise dress, with ruffled cap sleeves, silk flowers at right shoulder, white embroidery on bodice and at hem, slight train, short lace bolero jacket with mink trim at sleeves, separate peach silk slip, labeled: Boue Soeurs/73 Ave. Champs-Elysees/Paris/13 West 56th Street/New York; Together with a Peach Silk Slip and an Embroidered Net Bodice. Each labeled: Boue Soeurs.

doylenewyork

 

[ponytrot]

wow...the delicacy is really beautiful...what artistry in the making of thos garments!

 

[Sacheverelle]

Boue Soeurs Dress Detail

Ribbon flower detail on the Boue Soeurs Court Dress c. 1928

 

[Sacheverelle]

1928 Boué Soeurs Court Presentatiion Dress Study photos:

 

[Sacheverelle]

All the photos above are from my study project on this dress at the Met, NYC in 1997.
My friend photographed for me while I studied.
That's me taking notes in photo #2.

 

[sophiejade]

1925 Boué Soeurs Court Presentation Dress

Description Protocol regulated the formal attire for men and women who were to be presented at the Court of St. James in London, until the custom was ended in the 20th century. The long train emanating from the shoulders of this gown suggest it may have been worn to for a court presentation in the mid-1920s. An example of the silhouette known as a "robe de style," in which interior boning widens the skirt at either side, the dress was custom-made in the Boué Soeurs atelier. The lamé fabric, paired with a virtuoso examples of ribbon work, identify its couture origins. The elaborate craftsmanship of these elegant ornaments, arranged in a floral basket design, are a characteristic feature of gowns made by the Boué sisters.

From the The Metropolitan Museum of Art Collection Database

 

[sophiejade]

1928 Boué Soeurs Court Presentation Dress


From the The Metropolitan Museum of Art Collection Database

 

[La bordélique]

I'm simply in awe... thank you sophiejade for posting!