1904-1970 Jean Desses

[DosViolines]

Jean Dessès wool coat, 1950s

In this fabulous coat the designer treats heavy wool as a drapable fabric. The bias cut and ingeniously placed diagonal seams at the waist create a fluid, figure-molding statement. This is soft sculpture at its best.

The coat is impeccably tailored with the lines of the stripe forming perfect chevrons. It is fashioned from black and gray striped wool twill and is lined with black satin. There is a shawl collar; and there are large diagonal pockets set on the front sides.

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Jean Desses Violet Petal Jacket and Muff
1950s
The short bolero jacket with elbow length sleeves and voluminous muff covered entirely with rayon plain and plush violet petals in white and various shades of purple, lavender taffeta lining, labeled: Jean Desses/17 Avenue Matignon-Paris/Made In France, tape label: 9509 and additional muslin label: BOAS/Rayonne 100%/9509-Bianchini.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Jean Desses Red Chiffon Cocktail Dress
Late 1950s
Chiffon intricately draped over rigid understructure, with fitted bodice, bell skirt, pairs of floating multi-layered panels sewn at front and back waist, self straps extending into draped back cowl, labeled: Jean Desses/12 Rd.Pt./Champs-Elysees/Paris, and handwritten number on tape.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Jean Desses Ivory Silk Ball Gown
1960s
Of ivory slubbed silk, the dress sleeveless, with low V-back gathered with tie bow, princess line, with flare of skirt accentuated with tab side seams, the sides and neck edge decorated with band of diagonal rhinestone rows, stiffened petticoats, labeled: Jean Desses/Rd.Pt.Champs Elysees/Paris.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Jean Desses Pret-a-Porter Tweed Suit
1960s
Of blue and purple wool tweed, the collarless jacket closing with three buttons at a diagonal from front center waist to left shoulder, extra scarf panel draping down back, slim skirt, the suit labeled: Jean Desses/paris/Pret A Porter/Execute par Maria Carine sur autorisation speciale/Made In France

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

When one thinks of noted French designer, Jean Desses, you immediately recall those fabulous gowns worn by Jennifer Lopez and Renee Zellweger on the Red Carpet. Those gowns were a wonderful feast for the eyes! Haute Couture designer, Jean Desses, gained major notoriety in the 1940's and 50's for his hallmark silk chiffon and jersey asymmetric draped and twisted gowns constructed like pieces of architecture. Desses belongs to the small group of important couturiers such as Vionnet, Balenciaga and Gres whose creations combined technical skill with sculptural technique.

Circa 1950's Jean Desses Couture custom gown of rich royal blue jersey in a spaghetti strap sheath design with body entirely ruched by hand. Amazing intricate construction with inverted kick pleat and boned bodice. Back zipper closure. Fully lined.

marilynglass.com

 

[DosViolines]

Circa 1950's strapless ruched bodice with further pleated treatment from waist to hips extending into layers of voluminous silk chiffon skirt. The color is a rich lemon yellow one of the 'signature' colors Desses used in creating his wonderful draped goddess gowns. Dress also includes long wide silk chiffon wrap.

marilynglass.com

 

[Hanne]

Model wearing a dress by Jean Desses 1953


via flickr.com / vintagevogue