1938- John Bates aka Jean Varon

[SomethingElse]

Synthetic, woven and printed, c. 1973, London.

Full-skirted evening dress with long 'bishop's ' sleeves and a broad shirt collar, made of dark cream, red, and shades of blue printed synthetic silk in an all-over geometric design using zig-zags squares, circles and stylised flowers.

This dress was designed by John Bates for Jean Varon for Autumn / Winter 1973.

The fabric print was designed by Sally McLaughlan. The dress is from the same collection (Autumn / Winter 1973) as another evening dress, also made of printed fabric designed by Sally McLaughlan, in the Museum of Costume collection (BATMC 2004.141).

A newspaper in Chicago ran a feature on Sally McLaughlan's prints for Jean Varon, and particularly mentioned this design. The story went that Sally and a friend had drawn the biggest and boldest designs they could, printed them on to silk squares, and then had persuaded Selfridges and Fenwicks in London to stock them as scarves. Apparently, John Bates saw the scarves in one of these stores and thought that if the patterns were enlarged and repeated they would convert into the most 'astonishing gowns'. The print was changed, and Courtaulds produced the fabric from which the dress was made (it was called Tricel Surah).

The dress fastens centre front with 5 navy blue buttons at the bodice and with a short zip set in to the centre front seam of the skirt. The skirt of this dress has been shortened.

The dress was featured in the Sheffield Morning Telegraph in December 1973, with the caption 'A very super silk shirt dress, which seems to live up to the claim of going anywhere, anytime. It's fitted and widely belted to emphasise a small waist. The skirt is circular and the sleeves very full. Colours are orange, black, brown and cream or red, navy, blue, slate blue and cream'. The dress sold for £24.

This particular dress was bought by Richard Lester on ebay in 2004. Given to the Museum of Costume by Richard Lester.

fashionmuseum.co.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

Synthetic woven chiffon, c. 1973, London.

A-line sleeveless evening dress with four tiers and stand up ruffle collar, made of petrol blue vertically pleated synthetic silk chiffon. Each of the tiers of pleated chiffon is attached at the top edge only to a mid-brown woven synthetic silk underdress.

We think that the dress was designed by John Bates for Jean Varon for Spring / Summer 1973.

The way that the dress was constructed (that is, just attaching the tiers of chiffon to the underdress at the top edge), plus using pleated chiffon, meant that there was lots of movement in the dress as it was worn. It would have looked great when the wearer was dancing, or just walking into a room.

The dress fastens with a full-length zip in the centre back. There is also a rouleau tie on either side of the back opening, which would have tied in a bow or even a loose knot, when the dress was worn.

The dress was photographed in Harpers & Queen in April 1973 with the caption 'Creamy georgette crisped into tier upon tier of pleats, bodice floats free over tight-fitting waistline...'.

This dress was also featured in an article in the Glasgow Sunday Mail in October 1973 about Carol Meade, who was Miss Scotland at the time. The point of the article was to take Carol shopping in Fraser's in Argyle Street, Glasgow, for evening clothes which would be appropriate for the functions which she was to attend as Miss Scotland. She was particularly drawn to this evening dress, which was described as '...an aqua blue pleated and tiered chiffon dress by Jean Varon, trimmed with roses and costing an amazing £76.95'.

This particular dress was bought by Richard Lester in Grays Antique Market in Bond Street, London in 2004. Given to the Museum of Costume by Richard Lester.

fashionmuseum.co.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

Synthetic knitted [jersey], applied (sequins) and woven (net), c. 1973, London.

Full-skirted evening dress with long 'bishop's' sleeves and broad shirt collar, made of black knitted jersey synthetic fabric. On the back bodice of the dress there is an inset long rectangular panel of black net embroidered in black sequins and thread in the pattern of a spider's web, with two spiders made of black beads.

This evening dress was designed by John Bates for Jean Varon for Autumn / Winter 1973.

The dress fastens centre front with 7 black faceted buttons on the bodice, and then with a short zip set into the centre front seam of the skirt. The dress also has a tie belt of the same fabric attached at either side which fastens in a loose knot at the back when the dress has been put on.

The dress was photographed for an advertisement for the Design Room at Selfridges in London (which was one of the many shops were it sold) with the caption '...Femme fatale dress in heavy black jersey, embroidered with jet'. Selfridges stocked the dress in sizes 8 - 16, and sold it for £39.95.

Another newspaper featured different photographs of the dress, describing it as 'a shirt style with button through front and full skirt - the interest is all at the back'.

Jean Varon showed a number of plain coloured dresses which were either backless or had a special design feature on the back that year. One which excited great press attention was a dress called 'Cosmos' which was cut so low at the back that just about every newspaper in early September 1973 ran the photograph of the model wearing it.

This particular dress was bought by Richard Lester at Alfie's Antique Market near Marylebone Station in London in 2004. Given to the Museum of Costume by Richard Lester.

fashionmuseum.co.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

Tricel knitted [jersey] and applied (braid), c. 1969, London.

Sleeveless evening dress with plunging V-neckline and pleated midriff and peplum detail, made of black synthetic jersey. There are two horizontal bands of embroidered braid in a single leaf design on two parallel straps either side of the pleated midriff detail on the bodice. These both carry round to the back of the dress, each fastening with a hook and eye.

This dress was designed by John Bates for Jean Varon for Spring / Summer 1969.

A version of this dress was featured in Vogue in January 1969, photographed by David Bailey. The caption read '...satin ribbons wrap a Grecian bodice revealing sides and back and plunging V...'. The dress in the photograph sold for 12 ½ guineas and was available at Chanelle in Knightsbridge in London.

The dress in Vogue was made of Tricel jersey: it seems likely that the dress in the Museum collection is made of the same fabric.

Given to the Museum of Costume by Richard Lester.

fashionmuseum.co.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

Triacetate, woven, printed and embroidery (broderie anglaise), c. 1975, London.

High-waisted evening dress with square-cut neckline and narrow shoulder straps, made of black synthetic fabric with a woven thin self-coloured stripe printed in a pattern of natural-looking flowers and leaves. The fabric is used so that the design is horizontal; the middle section of each pattern repeat has the flowers in shades of blue (plus the occasional smaller pink flower) with green foliage, while the outer sections have the flowers and leaves in white. There are four vertical double ruffles of broderie anglaise applied from waist to hem on the skirt: one at the centre front, one at the centre back and one at either side seam. In addition, the waistline, hem, neck, and shoulder straps are all edged in broderie anglaise. There is an applied bright blue ribbon bow in the centre front of the bodice.

This evening dress was designed by John Bates for Jean Varon for Spring / Summer 1975. The dress was called 'Meadow' and is made of Courtaulds Tricelon. This was a synthetic fabric composed of 65% triacetate and 35% nylon.

The dress was featured in the Hampshire Telegraph in May 1975 with the caption 'Sure to be a winner is this enchanting summer evening dress, aptly called 'Meadow' ... it's the sort of dress that does not date, is simple, yet pretty and ultra feminine. It will show off a tan to perfection. Retail price is £65'.

We know that Jean Varon used this fabric, but in different colourways in other dresses in the Spring / Summer 1975 collection. Indeed, there is another dress (but in a different colourway) using the same fabric as that used in 'Meadow' in another dress designed by John Bates for Jean Varon in the Museum of Costume collection (BATMC 2004.199).

This particular dress was bought by Richard Lester at Alfie's Antique Market near Marylebone Station in London in 2004. Given to the Museum of Costume by Richard Lester.

fashionmuseum.co.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

Woven and printed synthetic, c. 1975, London.

Very high-waisted circular skirted evening dress with low-cut V-neck bodice and thin spaghetti shoulder straps, made of synthetic fabric with a woven self-coloured stripe printed in an exuberant design of flowers, swooshes and circles in shades of blue and green. The tiny bodice is completely covered by a double ruffle of the same fabric which fastens in a knot at the centre front of the bodice (almost like a scarf). The other ends of the ruffle dangle down in two triangular points at the side seams.

We think that this evening dress was designed by John Bates for Jean Varon for Spring / Summer 1975. While we don't know the exact date, we do know that the dress was called 'Jamaica'.

We aren't sure of the date because house photographs were not taken of every dress in each of the Jean Varon collections (there were 80 to 100 dresses in a collection). It was the house photographs which were circulated to the press and, generally speaking, it is these images which (at this date) appear in newspapers. Along with most designers or design houses, Jean Varon subscribed to a press clippings service; these clippings were then kept in press books for reference. Unfortunately, there is no reference to this dress in the Jean Varon press books.

Although the print design is different, the woven self-coloured stripe of the fabric from which 'Jamaica' is made is similar to the fabric of two other dresses by John Bates for Jean Varon in the collection at the Museum of Costume (BATMC 2004.199 and BATMC 2004.197). We know that one of these dresses (BATMC 2004.197) is called 'Meadow' and that it was from the Spring / Summer 1975 collection. It is for this reason that we think 'Jamaica' comes from the same collection.

The fabric from which 'Meadow' is made is Courtaulds Tricelon, a synthetic fabric composed of 65% triacetate and 35% nylon: we're fairly sure that 'Jamaica' is made of the same Courtaulds Tricelon. The fabric is quite see-through; however, all the dresses have underskirts, so modesty would be preserved!

This particular dress was bought by Richard Lester in Alfie's Antique Market near Marylebone Station in London in 2004. Given to the Museum of Costume by Richard Lester.

fashionmuseum.co.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

Synthetic, woven, printed and embroidery (broderie anglaise), c. 1975, London.

High-waisted evening dress with deep V-cut neckline and narrow shoulder straps, made of black synthetic fabric with a woven thin self-coloured stripe printed in a pattern of natural-looking flowers and leaves. The fabric is used so that the design is vertical; the middle section of each pattern repeat has the flowers in shades of yellow and orange (plus the occasional smaller purple flower) with green foliage, while the outer sections have the flowers and leaves in white. The V-neck is edged with a double ruffle of broderie anglaise. There's also a much deeper double ruffle of the same broderie anglaise at the hem of the dress.

We think that this evening dress was designed by John Bates for Jean Varon for Spring / Summer 1975.

The dress is similar to a dress called 'Meadow' (which is also in the Museum collection, with accession number BATMC 2004.199) which was from the Spring / Summer 1975 collection. It is made of the same fabric (Courtaulds Tricelon, a synthetic fabric composed of 65% triacetate and 35% nylon), the fabric design is the same, and the design of the dress itself is very like 'Meadow'. It is for these reasons that we think the dress comes from the same collection.

The dress called 'Meadow' was featured in the Hampshire Telegraph in May 1975 with the caption 'Sure to be a winner is this enchanting summer evening dress, aptly called 'Meadow' ... it's the sort of dress that does not date, is simple, yet pretty and ultra feminine. It will show off a tan to perfection. Retail price is £65'.

This particular dress was bought by Richard Lester in Alfie's Antique Market near Marylebone Station in London in 2004. Given to the Museum of Costume by Richard Lester.

fashionmuseum.co.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

Cotton mix, woven (seersucker) and woven, c.1972-1973, London.

Circular and tiered-skirted evening dress with long 'bishop's' sleeves and low scoop neckline, made of white cotton seersucker and black and white printed cotton in two different check designs. There are 3 tiers in the skirt: the small check is at the top; then the bigger check design comes next, but used diagonally; finally, there's a tier of white seersucker (where the woven stripe of the fabric is used horizontally). There is a narrow panel of the larger check fabric as an edging at the hem of the dress.

We think that this dress was designed by John Bates for Jean Varon for the Spring / Summer 1973 collection.

The bodice and sleeves are cut so that the woven stripe of the seersucker is, by and large, horizontal. The dress fastens with 3 flat black buttons at the centre front of the bodice, and a short zip in the centre front of the skirt. There is a separate black fabric belt, which ties at the waist. The skirt of the dress is a complete circle, and is made of just two panels with a seam at either side.

The Jean Varon Spring / Summer 1973 collection was shown at a special event at Les Ambassadeurs Club on Park Lane in London in October 1972. This was billed as an event for the four leading British designers of the day - John Bates, Bill Gibb, Jean Muir and Zandra Rhodes - to show their Spring collections.

The Jean Varon show included a dress similar to this one, noted as being in crisp Swiss cotton and seersucker (it sold for £31.95). With its seersucker bodice and sleeves, it seems likely therefore that this dress is from the same Spring / Summer 1973 collection. A report of the show in The Evening Standard commented 'The message comes over loud and strong: colours - everything as long as its black and white; and the hem wherever you fancy, as long as there's yards of fabric in it'.

Given to the Museum of Costume by Richard Lester.

fashionmuseum.co.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

Synthetic knitted [jersey] and applied, c. 1972, London.

A-line evening dress with square-cut neckline, close-fitting long sleeves and panels of silver zig-zag decoration, made of black synthetic knitted wool jersey. There is a broad horizontal band of woven silver fabric, all around the bottom part of the dress, which is also set in to the black jersey to make the high bodice. Finally, a narrow band of the silver fabric is applied at the ends of the sleeves (which fasten with a short zip).

This evening dress was designed by John Bates for Jean Varon for Autumn / Winter 1972.

The dress is made of a synthetic wool jersey with the trade name Courtelle Neospun Jersey made by British textile firm Courtaulds.

The dress was featured in the Birmingham Evening Mail in September 1972 with the caption 'First class finery ... hostess gowns that take you anywhere. Jean Varon's lean black A-line gown with the romantic name tag of 'Parthenon' and a glittering, silver Lurex brocade Greek-patterned trimming'. The dress cost £24, and was available in sizes 10 - 16 in black or white with silver braid trim.

This particular dress was bought by Richard Lester at a vintage clothing store called Viva Vintage in Toronto in Canada in 2004. Given to the Museum of Costume by Richard Lester.

fashionmuseum.co.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

Synthetic knitted [jersey] and printed, c. 1970-1973, London.

Evening dress with close-fitting sleeves with oval-shaped 'slashes' at the top edge, made of orange, yellow and brown printed synthetic jersey in an all-over design of flower shapes (but with no drawn detail) and diamond pattern. The fabric of the dress is softly gathered into a narrow circular band at the neckline, which fastens with 3 fabric-covered buttons.

We think that this dress, designed by John Bates for Jean Varon, dates from the early 1970s.

We aren't exactly sure of the date because house photographs were not taken of every dress in each of the Jean Varon collections (there were 80 to 100 dresses in a collection). It was the house photographs which were circulated to the press and, generally speaking, it is these images which (at this date) appear in newspapers. Along with most designers or design houses, Jean Varon subscribed to a press clippings service; these clippings were then kept in press books for reference. Unfortunately, there is no reference to this dress in the Jean Varon press books and so we are fairly sure that this was a dress which was not photographed.

The jersey fabric from which this dress is made, as well as the circular neck band detail is similar to that used for another dress in the Museum of Costume collection designed by John Bates for Jean Varon (BATMC 2004.440). It seems likely therefore that both these dresses came from the same collection. Frustratingly, however, we are not sure of the exact date of that collection.

This particular dress was bought by Richard Lester in Portobello Road in London in 2004. Given to the Museum of Costume by Richard Lester.

fashionmuseum.co.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

Synthetic knitted [jersey] and printed, c. 1971-1972, London.

Triangular-shaped evening dress with long 'bishop's' sleeves and broad high shirt collar, made of light blue, orange and shades of green printed synthetic silk in all-over 'blowsy' flower design. The collar, sleeves and hem are all made of black and white printed synthetic silk with a cross and grid design.

This dress called 'Naiad' was designed by John Bates for Jean Varon for the Spring / Summer 1972 collection.

The dress has a very high bodice and the skirt is cut in 8 shaped panels (4 at the front and 4 at the back). This gives the exaggerated triangular shape of the dress. This was a typical fashionable shape at this date, but to our eyes today it's almost as if this could be a maternity dress. Each of the 8 panels of the skirt of the dress is lined with white plain weave synthetic fabric, which gives extra body to the dress.

The dress fastens centre back with a full-length zip. The pattern design does not match up across the seam, as it might in a more expensive dress.

The dress was shown at the London Designer Collections in November 1971. Fifteen British designers showed their collections for Spring / Summer 1972 in two shows each day. In a report of these shows Fabric Forecast magazine described this dress as a 'swirling occasion-maker dress mixing prints'. The dress retailed at £35.50.

This particular dress was bought by Richard Lester at Rokit Vintage Clothing shop in Covent Garden in London in 2004. Given to the Museum of Costume by Richard Lester.

fashionmuseum.co.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

Synthetic, printed, c. 1970-1973, London.

Evening dress with close-fitting sleeves with long floating 'wrap' panels of fabric at the sleeve ends, made of rainbow-coloured printed synthetic jersey in an all-over design of oriental arches and columns. The fabric of the bodice is gathered softly in vertical pleats into a top-stitched circular facing at the neck at the top and a top-stitched waistband at the bottom. The skirt falls in similar soft pleats from the waistband.

We think that this dress, designed by John Bates for Jean Varon, dates from the early 1970s.

We aren't exactly sure of the date because house photographs were not taken of every dress in each of the Jean Varon collections (there were 80 to 100 dresses in a collection). It was the house photographs which were circulated to the press and, generally speaking, it is these images which (at this date) appear in newspapers. Along with most designers or design houses, Jean Varon subscribed to a press clippings service; these clippings were then kept in press books for reference. Unfortunately, there is no reference to this dress in the Jean Varon press books and so we are fairly sure that this was a dress which was not photographed.

The joy of this dress is not only the design of the rainbow-coloured printed fabric, but also the extraordinary trailing or floating sleeves. To understand how the sleeves work you have to imagine that you have a straight length of fabric and that you join both ends together. You then take this (it's a bit like a roller towel) and sew the part where you have joined the fabric to the end of the sleeve in a straight line up from the cuff for about 15 cm, gathering it slightly as you go. The circle of fabric then hangs down over the sleeve.

The fabric from which the dress is made is slightly see-through, and so there is an underskirt of natural coloured synthetic silk. The dress fastens centre front with 4 fabric-covered buttons on the bodice and a short zip in the centre front of the underskirt. The waist band fastens with 3 fabric-covered buttons.

This particular dress was bought by Richard Lester on ebay in 2004. Given to the Museum of Costume by Richard Lester.

fashionmuseum.co.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

Synthetic, woven (chiffon), c. 1974-1977, London.

Full-skirted high-waisted evening dress with double cape sleeves and V-neckline edged with a ruffle, made of mid-blue synthetic silk chiffon. The cape sleeves carry on round the back of the dress falling as a cape over the shoulders.

This dress was designed by John Bates for Jean Varon. We think that it dates from the mid 1970s.

We aren't exactly sure of the date because house photographs were not taken of every dress in each of the Jean Varon collections (there were 80 to 100 dresses in a collection). It was the house photographs which were circulated to the press and, generally speaking, it is these images which (at this date) appear in newspapers. Along with most designers or design houses, Jean Varon subscribed to a press clippings service; these clippings were then kept in press books for reference. Unfortunately, there is no reference to this dress in the Jean Varon press books and so we are fairly sure that this was a dress which was not photographed.

It is, however, typical of the self-coloured floating chiffon evening dresses which John Bates was designing for Jean Varon in the early and mid 1970s.

This particular dress was bought by Richard Lester at Celia's Vintage Clothing in Nottingham in 2004. Given to the Museum of Costume by Richard Lester.

fashionmuseum.co.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

Synthetic, knitted [jersey] and printed, c. 1974, London.

Triangular-shaped sleeveless evening dress with high stand-up ruffle collar, made of cream synthetic printed jersey with an all-over dark brown spot and curved line pattern. The dress fastens centre front at the neck with 9 domed buttons and same fabric loops. There is also an attached narrow tie at either side of the neck which ties into a bow once the dress is on.

This evening dress was called 'Tiddlewinks' and was designed by John Bates for Jean Varon for Spring / Summer 1974. The dress is made of polyester jersey.

The dress was reported in the Dublin Evening Herald in February 1974, merely mentioning that this was a dress shown at Jean Varon's Summer collection in London a couple of days before.

Photographs do exist of that show. The interesting thing is that the model wearing Tiddlewinks seems to be swirling the fabric about as she is walking down the catwalk. You suddenly realise how that was possible when you look closely at the dress itself, for - unusually - this is an evening dress with pockets. The model simply had her hands in her pockets as she strode down the runway, and used that to show the full width of the triangular shaped dress with the sunray burst pattern of spots and curved lines.

This particular dress was bought by Richard Lester on ebay in 2005. Given to the Museum of Costume by Richard Lester.

fashionmuseum.co.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

Synthetic, woven and embroidery, c. 1972, London.

Flared short day dress with 'bishop's' sleeves gathered into deep cuffs, made of bright yellow synthetic wool knitted jersey. Lines of black top-stitching decorate the dress at the stand-up collar, the cuffs, the hem and at the sides of the back and front of the bodice. The dress is worn with a wide belt of the same fabric, similarly top-stitched, with a big ornate square silver-coloured buckle.

This dress was designed by John Bates for Jean Varon for the Autumn / Winter 1972 collection.

The skirt of the dress is made of 8 joined shaped panels (4 at the front and 4 at the back) which give the garment its distinctive softly flared shape. The dress fastens centre back with a long zip.

The dress is made of a synthetic wool knitted jersey with the trade name Courtelle Neospun Jersey, made by British textile firm Courtaulds.

This was a popular dress and the style was featured extensively in the press when it was first shown to press and fashion buyers in the Summer of 1972. 'These are the sort of dresses the smart mid-20s have been looking for unsuccessfully. They have fluid flirty skirts, easy-fit bodices and high mandarin collar or shirt collars' wrote the West Ham Evening Gazette of the dresses in August 1972.

The feature in this London local newspaper mentioned that the dresses were available in white, khaki, red, brown, camel, yellow, marine, rosewood, gun-metal, green, black and navy. The dress sold for about £20.

This particular dress was bought by Richard Lester in Portobello Road in London in 2005. Given to the Museum of Costume by Richard Lester.

fashionmuseum.co.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

Synthetic, woven and embroidery, c. 1974-1975, London.

Triangular-shaped evening dress made of black worsted crepe with stand up collar and two deep panels of embroidery in browns and greys all around the skirt, one with a diamond pattern (rather like a tiled floor) and one with single birds with exotic tail feathers. There are three bands of applied braid in the same colours going round the top, middle and cuff of the close-fitting sleeves of the dress; the same braid edges the zip at the centre-front. There is a single embroidered bird (again in the same colours) on each shoulder of the dress.

We think that this winter evening dress was one of the first pieces that John Bates designed for his new couture label. This firm was called John Bates and was separate from Jean Varon.

The dress was featured in Vogue on 1 September 1974 under the headline 'John Bates dress ... couture' and with the caption 'long dress with fitted, yoked mandarin-collared bodice'. It was worn with a rust red dyed opossum muff and rust T-strap shoes. The photograph in the magazine was by Norman Parkinson. The dress cost £420, and the list of shops were it could be bought included Fortnum and Mason and Chic of Hampstead in London, McDonalds in Glasgow and Marsden International in Dudley in the West Midlands.

John Bates was launched in September 1974. The launch show featured the 1975 Spring / Summer collection. John Bates was aimed at the top end of the market with garments using more expensive fabrics such as pure wools and silks (rather than synthetic versions or mixes), fur and leather.

This particular dress was bought by Richard Lester in Covent Garden Market in London in 2005. Given to the Museum of Costume by Richard Lester.

fashionmuseum.co.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

Synthetic, knitted, woven (net) and applied (sequins), c. 1973, London.

Full-skirted evening dress with long 'bishop's' sleeves and broad shirt collar, made of black knitted jersey synthetic fabric. On the back bodice of the dress there is an inset long rectangular panel of black net embroidered in black sequins and thread in the pattern of a spider's web, with two spiders made of black beads.

This evening dress was designed by John Bates for Jean Varon for Autumn / Winter 1973. It is the same style dress as one other in the Museum collection (BATMC 2004.190). The dress fastens centre front with 7 black faceted buttons on the bodice, and then with a short zip set into the centre front seam of the skirt. The dress also has a tie belt of the same fabric attached at either side which fastens in a loose knot at the back when the dress has been put on.

The dress was photographed for an advertisement for the Design Room at Selfridges in London (which was one of the many shops were it sold) with the caption ' ... Femme fatale dress in heavy black jersey, embroidered with jet'. Selfridges stocked the dress in sizes 8 - 16, and sold it for £39.95. Another newspaper featured different photographs of the dress, describing it as 'a shirt style with button through front and full skirt - the interest is all at the back'.

Jean Varon showed a number of plain coloured dresses which were either backless or had a special design feature on the back that year. One which excited great press attention was a dress called 'Cosmos' which was cut so low at the back that just about every newspaper in early September 1973 ran the photograph of the model wearing it.

This particular dress was bought by Richard Lester at Celia's Vintage Clothing in Nottingham in 2005. Given to the Museum of Costume by Richard Lester.

fashionmuseum.co.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

Polyester and synthetic, woven (chiffon) and woven (taffeta), c. 1978, London.

Evening dress with short cape sleeves and deep V-neck edged with ruffles (which dangle down at the back of the bodice and end in tassels), made of black polyester chiffon over a black synthetic silk taffeta underskirt. The dress is decorated with white or cream top stitching: there are 4 horizontal bands of 8 lines of equally spaced top-stitching on the skirt; the edges of the cape sleeves have 8 lines of top stitching; there are 4 on the edge of the neck ruffles. To complete the decoration, there are equally-spaced stitched 'dots' of white or cream thread giving a vertical broken line pattern on the bodice.

The press information for this evening dress designed by John Bates for Jean Varon for Autumn / Winter 1978 described it as a 'chiffon evening dress with cape sleeves, deep V neck edged with chiffon frill and flowers at the waist. Contrasting bands of top stitching on skirt'. This particular dress (the one in the Museum collection) has, through the passage of time, lost the cluster of white artificial flowers worn on the belt at the centre front.

The dress is called 'Romance', and was available at a retail price of £84 in red, black, white and 'many pastel shades'.

'Romance' was featured time and again in the regional press in Autumn 1978. Lancashire Life for November 1978 had the dress as the centre piece in an article headlined 'Dinners, Discos and Dates After Dark'. The Glasgow Herald also included it in an article in late November 1978 about dresses for the Christmas party season under the byline 'Now is the time for all women to come to the aid of the festive party by slipping into something glamorous'.

It's not surprising the dress was a hit outside of London (as well as in the capital) as Jean Varon had 28 'shops within shops' throughout the UK at this time. A lot of the firm's business was done in the different regions of Britain.

This particular dress was bought by Richard Lester at Relik in Notting Hill, London.

fashionmuseum.co.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

c. 1965. This Mod outfit, designed by John Bates of the Jean Varon Fashon House, may cause a few raised eyebrows this summer. In heavy-ribbed all-cotton white, it is a simple shift with a floral collar. The unusual stockings are looped with roses and bows.

corbis.com

 

[SomethingElse]

c. 1968. model wears a mini-dress by Keith Varon, accompanied with cowboy hat, boots and slim, leather trousers. London.

corbis.com