1930 - 2018 Sonia Rykiel

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I couldn't find a thread about her!


Photographer: Jean-Luce Huré

Sonia Rykiel (25 May 1930 – 25 August 2016) was a French fashion designer and writer. She created the Poor Boy Sweater, which was featured on the cover of French Elle magazine. Her knitwear designs and new fashion techniques led her to be dubbed the "Queen of Knits". The Sonia Rykiel label was founded in 1968, upon the opening of her first store, making clothing, accessories, and fragrances. Rykiel was also a writer, and her first book was published in 1979. In 2012, Rykiel revealed that she was suffering from Parkinson's disease. She died from complications of the disease on 25 August 2016.

Fashion

In 1962, unable to find something to wear during her pregnancy, Rykiel used an Italian clothing supplier to design and create a dress and a sweater, which incorporated high cut arm holes and a shrunken fit to cling to the body. The practical and modern style led to orders from her friends and became known as the Poor Boy Sweater. Rykiel started selling the sweaters from her husband's store and the Poor Boy Sweater made the cover of French Elle magazine, bringing Rykiel fame. Actress Audrey Hepburn bought 14 sweaters in every colour. Rykiel's husband helped her to create the Sonia Rykiel Company in 1965. In 1968, Rykiel opened her first boutique store on the Left Bank.

Rykiel invented various fashion techniques. She was the first designer to put seams on the outside of a garment, leave hems unfinished and use slogans on her sweaters. She has also been credited with popularisation of wearing black. In 1972, Rykiel was dubbed "Queen of Knits" by Women's Wear Daily. She was also known as "Coco Rykiel", a comparison to Coco Chanel. In 1977, she became the first designer to create a line of clothes for mail order firm 3 Suisses. The following year, she launched her first fragrance called Septième sens (Seventh Sense). Rykiel contributed to the interior decoration for the Hôtel de Crillon and the Hôtel Lutetia.

Rykiel designed and created the costumes for the French musical comedy Les Dix Commandements. Nathalie Rykiel was appointed president of Sonia Rykiel in 2007. In October 2008, at a fashion show celebrating the brand's 40th anniversary, tributes were paid to Rykiel. Thirty fashion designers, including Ralph Lauren, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Giorgio Armani, showcased their visions of the "Rykiel woman". The brand and its designs were also the subject of an exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris from 20 November 2008 to 20 April 2009. The Sonia Rykiel Exhibition was curated by Olivier Saillard. In December 2009, Rykiel and H&M introduced "Sonia Rykiel pour H&M", two masstige operations with the Swedish retailer. An event was held at the Grand Palais in Paris to celebrate the collection.

In January 2012 the Sonia Rykiel Company became majority-owned by the Hong Kong-based First Heritage Brands, part of the investment company Fung Brands. Fung Brands acquired 80 percent of Sonia Rykiel, with the Rykiel family retaining a 20 percent stake. That same year, Canadian designer Geraldo da Conceicao succeeded April Crichton as the artistic director of Rykiel. Julie de Libran took over the role during the following year.

In 2019, after years of mismanagement by First Heritage Brands, the Sonia Rykiel brand liquidated its operations, after a Paris commercial court judge rejected Lévy, the only remaining bidder for the company.

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Left:Sweater (1971) | Right: Blouse (1972) and Vest (1974)

This is the early work of a Sonia Rykiel, who transformed knitting clothes considered for daily wear, into fashionable outfit.

In the 1970s, gained power as fashionable and real couture of the time, prêt-à-porter took the place of Haute Couture that was no longer the source of new trends. Rykiel started her career in 1962. She presented knit outfits emphasizing the slender female body. Aside from fashionable knits, Rykiel also proposed clothes that had seams on the outside of the cloth, and clothing without hems, called "sans couture" clothing.

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Elle France - December 13, 1963
Featuring: Françoise Hardy
Photographer: Marc Hispard



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Vogue US February 1975
"European Fashion—the Movers"
Photographer: Deborah Turbeville



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Vogue US July 1984
"Paris: The Charming Character of Dressing at Sonia Rykiel"
Photographer: Arthur Elgort
Model: Gabrielle Lazure
Hair: Christiaan
Makeup: Heidi Moravetz



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Vogue US February 1979
Sonia Rykiel Spring/Summer 1979
Photographer: Tony Kent
Model: Eva Nielsen



Vogue US August 1979
Sonia Rykiel Fall/Winter 1979/1980
Photographer: François Lamy
Model: Lena Kansbod



Vogue US February 1980
Sonia Rykiel Spring/Summer 1980
Photographer: Dominique Issermann
Model: Anne Rohard



Vogue US August 1980
Sonia Rykiel Fall/Winter 1980/1981
Photographer: Dominique Issermann
Model: Anne Rohard



Vogue Archive via justaguy

 

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Elle France February 10, 1966
Photographer: Jeannette Leroy



Vogue US April 15, 1969
Model: Britt Ekland
Photographer: Gianni Penati



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Vogue US February 15, 1972
Photographer: Helmut Newton



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