1940s The Zoot Suit

clay

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From Wikipedia:
A Zoot suit (also spelled Zuit Suit) is a suit with high-waisted, wide-legged, tight-cuffed pegged trousers (called tramas) and a long coat (called the carlango) with wide lapels and wide padded shoulders. This style of clothing was popularized by Hispanics, Italian Americans, African Americans, and Filipino Americans during the late 1930s and 1940s
...
Often zoot suiters wear a felt hat with a long feather (called a tapa or tanda) and pointy, French-style shoes (called calcos). A young Malcolm X described the zoot suit as: "a killer-diller coat with a drape shape, reet pleats and shoulders padded like a lunatic's cell." Zoot suits usually featured a watch chain dangling from the belt to the knee or below, then back to a side pocket.
Zoot suits were for special occasions – such as a dance or a birthday party. The amount of material and tailoring required made them luxury items. Many young people wore a more moderate version of the "extra-bagged" pants or styled their hair in the signature "duck tail".
The oversized suit was an extravagant personal style and a declaration of freedom and auto-determination; although many people still consider it a "rebellious garment of the era."

The Zoot Suit Riot of '43

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Nowadays when we hear the phrase "Zoot Suit Riot" we undoubtedly think of big band swing music and flashy dancing, but there is a little more to it than that. What indeed was this Zoot Suit riot? Who played the roles, and what was happening in LA in 1943?

Background:
The 1940's was a period in American history filled with social unrest and racial violence. After the attack on Pearl Harbor, the United States, left paranoid and prejudiced, declared war so to speak, on Japanese Americans. A country that prides itself on freedom and opportunity took it upon itself to incarcerate over 100,000 Japanese people, regardless of whether or not they were American citizens. By the middle of 1942, completely innocent people many of whom had never been to Japan were thrown into American concentration camps. An event not glamorized in our elementary and high school text books. The west coast became an area of high racial tension, which was ultimately felt throughout the country (Brown 448). It wasn't until 1988 that the United States finally gave an official apology to these American people.
Tension continued to escalate as the decade rolled on. Los Angeles 1943, was no different, it was here that racial resentment grew between Mexican-Americans and whites in California. At this time LA was experiencing an agriculture labor shortage, and requested that around 200,000 Mexican laborers be sent to work in California. Now, much more so than today, Zoot Suits were in style, it was cool to have a zoot suit. They were worn typically by the Mexican American youth in California, and it would be pretty common to find groups of these kids hanging out in their "zoot suit" gangs, and like the greasers of the fifties, they too were seen as a threat to the culture, not only for being foreign, but for going against norm.
As almost a response to an article written describing an event where a group of Mexicans beat up American soldiers, riots broke out. That was the last draw; now people had a reason to uleash their feelings of resentment and hatred they had for so long held back. "Thousands of marines, sailors, soldiers, and civilians imposed a reign of terror on Mexican-American neighborhoods..." (Brown, 455). In the riots that followed, between these pechuccios, the zooters, and the whites, the American soldiers beat up the zooters, destroyed their suits, the symbol of their status, and cut their long hair(Smith lecture). It wasn't until the government saw the riots as a possible threat to their image, as seen by the Mexican ambassador, that it declared LA "off-limits to navy personel" (Freeman, 455)
When the LAPD showed up to stop the riot, most of the zooters were arrested, and in light of the situation, the City Council made the wearing of a Zoot Suit a misdemeanor. The soldiers were praised for their actions, and the riots and hatred that had found an outlet in LA moved on and was felt by much of the rest of the country as well (Brown, 455).

-Al Waxman describes a city in turmoil.
"Four boys came out of a pool hall. They were wearing zoot-suits that have become a symbol of a fighting flag. Police ordered them into arrest cars. One refused. He asked: "Why am I being arrested?" The police officer answered with three swift blows of the night-stick across the boy's head and he went down...he was one legged with a wooden limb. Maybe the officer didn't know he was attacking a cripple...Farther down the street the men stopped a streetcar, forcing the motorman to open the door and proceeded to inspect the clothing of the male passengers, "We're looking for zoot suits to burn," they shouted" (Brown, 455)


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Brown, Joshuwa ed. Who Built America?Working people and the nation's economy, politics, culture, and society New York. 1992
Smith, Dr. Suzanne, History 122 lecture, Mar 31,1999 :blink: :blink:
 
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Pics of Zoot Suits: B)
 

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Pics of Zoot Suits: :innocent:
 

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This photo the guy actually credited with inventing the " Lindy Hop" or Swing dancing as everyone knows it today
and guess what? I forgot his name. My bad, will post it later. :shock:
 

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Cab Calloway!! :woot:
 

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Cab Calloway!! :woot:
 

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Lindy Hop, Jitterbug, Swing dancing all the samething. This style of dress was definatly associated with it in different forms. The most extreme was the Zoot Suit.
 

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The Zoot-Suit and Style Warfare
by Stuart Cosgrove



From History Workshop Journal. Vol. 18 (Autumn 1984) pp. 77-91.
by permission of Oxford University Press. INTRODUCTION: THE SILENT NOISE OF SINISTER CLOWNS

What about those fellows waiting still and silent there on the platform, so still and silent they clash with the crowd in their very immobility, standing noisy in their very silence; harsh as a cry of terror in their quietness? What about these three boys, coming now along the platform, tall and slender, walking with swinging shoulders in their well-pressed, too-hot-for-summer suits, their collars high and tight about their necks, their identical hats of black cheap felt set upon the crowns of their heads with a severe formality above their conked hair? It was as though I'd never seen their like before: walking slowly, their shoulders swaying, their legs swinging from their hips in trousers that ballooned upward from cuffs fitting snug about their ankles; their coats long and hip-tight with shoulders far too broad to be those of natural western men. These fellows whose bodies seemed - what had one of my teachers said of me? - 'You're like one of those African sculptures, distorted in the interest of design.' Well, what design and whose?(1)

The zoot-suit is more than an exaggerated costume, more than a sartorial statement, it is the bearer of a complex and contradictory history. When the nameless narrator of Ellison's Invisible Man confronted the subversive sight of three young and extravagantly dressed blacks, his reaction was one of fascination not of fear. These youths were not simply grotesque dandies parading the city's secret underworld, they were "the stewards of something uncomfortable"(2), a spectacular reminder that the social order had failed to contain their energy and difference. The zoot-suit was more than the drape-shape of 1940s fashion, more than a colourful stage-prop hanging from the shoulders of Cab Calloway, it was, in the most direct and obvious ways, an emblem of ethnicity and a way of negotiating an identiy. The zoot-suit was a refusal: a subcultural gesture that refused to concede to the manners of subservience. By the late 1930s, the term "zoot" was in common circulation within urban jazz culture. Zoot meant something worn or performed in an extravagant style, and since many young blacks wore suits with outrageously padded shoulders and trousers that were fiercely tapered at the ankles, the term zoot-suit passed into everyday usage. In the sub-cultural world of Harlem's nightlife, the language of rhyming slang succinctly described the zoot-suit's unmistakable style: 'a killer-diller coat with a drapeshape, real-pleats and shoulders padded like a lunatic's cell. The study of the relationship between fashion and social action is notoriously underdeveloped, but there is every indication that the zoot-suit riots that erupted in the United States in the summer of 1943 had a profound effect on a whole generation of socially disadvantaged youths. It was during his period as a young zoot-suiter that the Chicano union activist Cesar Chavez first came into contact with community politics, and it was through the experiences of participating in zoot-suit riots in Harlem that the young pimp 'Detroit Red' began a political education that transformed him into the Black radical leader Malcolm X. Although the zoot-suit occupies an almost mythical place within the history of jazz music, its social and political importance has been virtually ignored. There can be no certainty about when, where or why the zoot-suit came into existence, but what is certain is that during the summer months of 1943 "the killer-diller coat" was the uniform of young rioters and the symbol of a moral panic about juvenile delinquency that was to intensify in the post-war period.

For the full story please visit : http://invention.smithsonian.org/centerpieces/whole_cloth/u7sf/u7materials/cosgrove.html
 
Oh please, not again...

EDIT: Wait, History of Style, where the hell have I been? I thought this was in Trends.
 
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zoot yy.jpg
11 Sep 1942 --- Jazz Band Leader, Lionel Hampton, draws an alteration markings on the jacket of his trumpeter. The jacket will be altered into a Zoot Suit, which became popular in the early 1940s. The style of suit was originally called a "sharpie", but the name Zoot Suit lasted because of a popular song. --- Image by © Bettmann/CORBIS

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05 Sep 1942, Washington, DC, USA --- 9/5/1942-Washington, DC- Real hep cats are these Zoot Suit-clad dancers on the ballroom floor of the Washington Hotel. It is doubtful if the garments lend any grace or agility to the jitterbugs who wear them, but even if they did, the needle nuts and gandy dancers may have to do with out them for the duration, because the WBP thinks the Zoot Suits unpatriotic, since they require more cloth than the ordinary suit. --- Image by © Bettmann/CORBIS

zoot BE086625.jpg
1943 --- Teens Dressed in Zoot Suits --- Image by © Bettmann/CORBIS

found on Picasa - more pictures here
 
Oh please, not again...

EDIT: Wait, History of Style, where the hell have I been? I thought this was in Trends.
lol fourboltmain :lol:.. your memory is not half bad.. this thread is a copied/reworked thread from Personal Style

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ca. 1943 --- 1943: ZOOT SUITS... : Zoot by any other name- a patriot just the same. Photograph. --- Image by © Bettmann/CORBIS

Undated:

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found on Picasa - more pictures here
 

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^thanks a lot ...
i like those . these are so funny ...
and i can put an image/reference on those large pants we're currently seeing ....
 

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