1940s-1980s Ferdinando Sarmi

[DosViolines]

wikipedia

Count Ferdinando Sarmi was the head of the Sarmi fashion design house in New York City. Ferdinando Sarmi was born into a wealthy Italian family. He expressed interest in fashion as a youth but was discouraged from pursuing a design career by his father. Sarmi stated in a 1965 interview with Time, "in Italy, when the oldest son tells his father he wants to be a dress designer, it's like a woman saying she intends to be a prostitute." Sarmi's father sent him to study at the University of Siena, where he received a doctor of law degree. Despite his professional training, Sarmi still desired a career in fashion. He became a costume designer and created costumes for two Italian films: Musica Proibita (released as Forbidden Music in the US) in 1942 and Cronaca di un Amore (released as Story of a Love Affair in the US) in 1950. Sarmi was given a leading role in Cronaca di un Amore, but it was his first and only on-screen performance. He left Italy in 1950 to work in New York fashion.

From 1951 to 1959, Sarmi was head designer for Elizabeth Arden. It was during this time that he developed a reputation as a top designer, wooing an influential clientele that included celebrities, New York socialites, and foreign dignitaries. Pat Nixon wore a Sarmi for Arden gown to her husband's second Inaugural Ball in 1957. He was best known for his opulent evening looks, and for his use of extravagant fabrics. Sarmi left Arden and opened his own Seventh Avenue boutique in 1959. In 1960, he was awarded the prestigious Coty Award for fashion design. His collection included haute couture and ready-to-wear apparel that set the pace for 1960s fashion in New York. His designs commonly featured intricate embroideries, vivid colors, and racy hemlines.
During the late 1960s, the house fell upon financial difficulties. In 1972, his business was renamed Ferdinando Sarmi, but it closed shortly thereafter.

 

[DosViolines]

time

Bugles, Bangles & All Woman

Friday, Jun. 25, 1965

"In Italy," says Count Ferdinando Sarmi, "when the oldest son tells his father he wants to be a dress designer, it's like a woman saying she intends to be a prostitute." Sarmi's own father responded by packing his son off to the university in Siena. The result was to make Sarmi, some 30 years later, the only Seventh Avenue designer who holds a doctor of law degree.

Women couldn't care less. To them the important thing about Sarmi is that he turns out some of the world's most elegant evening dresses. "Every woman with $600 to spend," says one New York buyer, "wants to own a Sarmi."

At the preview of his fall and winter collection last week, Sarmi produced 50 evening ensembles—every one of them made for a grand entrance. Typically, he committed himself to no single shape, cavalierly offering up silhouettes ranging from tentlike A-lines to baggy harem skirts. What interests Sarmi is fabric. There were amethyst, ruby and emerald velvets, cloth-of-gold studded with glass "jewels," acres of feathery chiffon, columns of ostrich plumes, bands of chinchilla, and bodices of shimmering bugles and bangles.

Each year Sarmi makes two trips to Switzerland, France and Italy to select his fabrics. He has the lace re-embroidered with silver and gold, the chiffon treated to produce a raised velvet pattern, the dress wools interwoven with rows of iridescent paillettes. Often he designs his own: one year it was photographs of raindrops screened onto fine silk, another time it was magnified butterfly wings.

At 49, Sarmi is a heavy-lidded, darkly handsome man who lives for his work. He came to the U.S. in 1951, when Elizabeth Arden hired him as her salon designer. In 1959, with his reputation well established, he went into business on his own. "I make clothes to enhance a woman's beauty or to hide her faults," says Sarmi. "I hate the ambiguity of women's clothes today. What for is the man to marry, if what he gets is not a woman but an ersatz man in pants?" Sarmi creations offer a woman frills but not fuss, flourishes but not flash, take her to the ball secure in the knowledge of her own absolute femininity.

Sarmi's designs are almost copy-proof. Highlight of this season's show, for instance, is a full-length empire coat made entirely of swansdown ($4,500). For the budget-minded lady or fashion pirate who wants to whip up an economy model, the directions would have to start: First you take 14 dozen swans . . .

 

[DosViolines]

Grecian tri-color chiffon gown.
thefrock

 

[DosViolines]

Pearl beaded silk ballgown.
thefrock

 

[DosViolines]

1960s lace gown.
thefrock

 

[DosViolines]

1960s shantung gown.
thefrock

 

[DosViolines]

Two Sarmi gowns.
thefrock

 

[SomethingElse]

1960's SARMI Silk Satin Beaded and Embroidered Dress! 1960 Coty Award Winner! Ever wear a dress designed by a Count? Ferdinando Sarmi, also known by his title Count Sarmi. After working at Elizabeth Arden for eight years, he opened his high quality ready to wear company in New York in 1959 and won the prestigious Coty Award the next year. Pat Nixon wore a Sarmi for Arden gown to the Inaugural Ball in 1957. His specialty was grand and opulent evening dresses... with prices that climbed into the Thousands of Dollars! This dress has a Sarmi label and was sold at I. Magnin, Beverly Hills. Totally elegant gown beaded and lavishly embroidered on heavy ivory silk satin. Excellent condition. Would make a lovely second wedding gown as well as suitable for any fancy occasion. I'd love to see it worn with long gloves, as it would have been in the 60's.

antiquedress.com

 

[SomethingElse]

1980's SARMI for I. Magnin Black Velvet Beaded Cocktail Dress! This dress is tres elegant! High quality Sarmi dress. Wonderful empire waist with heavenly sheer black chiffon bodice and "harem" sleeves. The bodice is a bandeau of black lace encrusted with black jet beads all around with a sweet tie bow at front. Excellent condition. Back zipper. Now... I have a suggestion. You can certainly wear this dress when not pregnant, but I think it's a perfect maternity cocktail dress! I've taken a few photos of the dress with the proper baby pillow under just so you can see how it might fit and look! So.. if you have looked high and low for the perfect holiday party dress and you are in your first or second trimester... well, baby.... why not wear something you WILL want to wear again! . As a Sarmi, this would have cost much more than this new!

antiquedress.com

 

[SomethingElse]

Last year we were fortunate enough to have the opportunity to purchase over 120 UNWORN Sarmi gowns and cocktail dresses from the estate of Leonard Gold, former CFO of Sarmi. Over the next few months we will be adding them all to Vintageous and you will see everything from chic and elegant chiffon toga gowns to wacky op-art shifts, to cellophane embroidered laces, gowns in some of the most stunning, lavish fabrics you have ever seen to simple poly day dresses. Welcome to the Sarmi Collection at Vintageous!

Semi sheer ecru organza covered in metallic gold floral embroidery, prong set golden rhinestones, and tiny clover shaped golden paillettes. Long sleeved bodice with high neckline, snap cuffs, strapless bodice liner and brown satin ribbon waistband. Gown has an elegantly flared skirt. Rear metal zipper. Dress is lined. Label reads, "designed by Sarmi New York."

vintageous.com

 

[SomethingElse]

A sumptuous black synthetic panne velvet evening gown from Sarmi. A very simple, elegant sheath style evening gown with a "v" neck. Matching panne velvet stole with beaded fringed ends. Rear nylon zipper. Dress is fully lined. Label reads, "designed by Sarmi New York."

vintageous.com

 

[SomethingElse]

A stunning, dramatic Sarmi evening gown in a hot pink, bright orange, mauve and avocado printed silk chiffon. From the front it's a simple sheath... from the back it's pure glam. Two WONDERFUL wide shoulder scarves with gathered ends trail beyond the hem of the dress (really not quite a watteau back, but a similar waterfall type effect). Rear nylon zipper. Dress is fully lined. Label reads, "SARMI New York."

vintageous.com

 

[SomethingElse]

A stylish 1960's Sarmi cocktail dress of a very soft floral silk matelasse in pink, lavender, green, periwinkle, shimmering gold, etc... Bust is constructed of four triangular panels wrapped over each other at the front, back and sides. Hot pink satin band under the bust. Dress has a pleated skirt with a bit of fullness. Rear metal zipper. Dress is fully lined. Label reads, "designed by Sarmi New York."

vintageous.com