A Retrospective : US Harper's Bazaar under Anthony Mazzola (1972–1992)

[blueorchid]

@Phuel You'll have to keep waiting for the late-late 80s/early 90s stuff... for some reason those years were horribly preserved. I'm not going to bother after some point, but I can't remember the exact year the preservation became awful (I'll go back to the 70s after the 80s are done).

Personally, I think Bazaar outclassed Vogue US (yes, even Vreeland's years!) throughout much of the 1940s and 1960s. I'm at the point where I find the Liz x Fabien years totally overrated due to everyone constantly trying and (failing) to imitate them. Francine Crescent's Vogue Paris is THE fashion editor/ultimate magazine for me.

 

[justaguy]

@Phuel You'll have to keep waiting for the late-late 80s/early 90s stuff... for some reason those years were horribly preserved. I'm not going to bother after some point, but I can't remember the exact year the preservation became awful (I'll go back to the 70s after the 80s are done).

Personally, I think Bazaar outclassed Vogue US (yes, even Vreeland's years!) throughout much of the 1940s and 1960s. I'm at the point where I find the Liz x Fabien years totally overrated due to everyone constantly trying and (failing) to imitate them. Francine Crescent's Vogue Paris is THE fashion editor/ultimate magazine for me.

I had a lot of issues from '71 & '72 and they were just awful. The covers were really bad and the they were trying to hard to make the content relevant with the times regarding using fonts and graphics in their layouts.

Thank god, it lasted a short period of time. By 1973 they were right back on track with beautiful content. I'm sure with Mazzola stepping in that made the difference.

 

[blueorchid]

Harper's Bazaar February 1984
"Spring Fever Heats Up the Streets"
Photographer: Marco Glaviano
Featuring: Jennifer Beals, Christie Brinkley, Patti Hansen



Harper's Bazaar February 1984
"Wild Style"
Photographer: Francesco Scavullo
Featuring: Madonna



Harper's Bazaar February 1984
"Hair Repair Guide: What To Do If You Hate Your Hair"
Photographer: Rico Puhlmann
Models Renée Simonsen



Harper's Bazaar February 1984
"Sure Cure For the "Once-a-Month" Breakout"
Photographer: Bill Silano
Model: Maria Hansen



Harper's Bazaar February 1984
"Bazaar's "Fashion Diet""
Photographer: Paul Amato
Model: Bitten Knudsen


HB Archive

 

[blueorchid]

Harper's Bazaar February 1984
"The New Soft Shapes"
Photographer: Marco Glaviano
Featuring: Merete Van Kamp, Daryl Hannah, Kelly LeBrock



Harper's Bazaar February 1984
"In the Pink"
Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier
Featuring: Diane Lane



Harper's Bazaar February 1984
"Paris Fancies the '50s!"
Photographer: Dick Ballarian
Featuring: Phoebe Cates



Harper's Bazaar February 1984
"Color in Shoes: Coming on Strong"
Photographer: Francesco Scavullo
Featuring: Renata Vackova, Michelle Johnson



Harper's Bazaar February 1984
"The Great New Jacket"
Photographer: Jacques Malignon
Models: Jacki Adams, Unknown


HB Archive

 

[blueorchid]

Harper's Bazaar March 1984
"New-Attitude Accessories"
Photographer: Mike Reinhardt
Models: Renata Vackova, Unknown



Harper's Bazaar March 1984
"Beauty & Health Guide: Tired to Terrific Beauty Quickies..."
Photographer: Stan Malinowski, Frank Schramm
Models: Nancy DeWeir, Maria Hansen



Harper's Bazaar March 1984
"Crisp, Cool, Whites... Fashion That Works"
Photographer: Paul Amato
Featuring: Polar Crespi, Liz Mazurzki, Lacey Ford



Harper's Bazaar March 1984
"Fashion's Bold and Beautiful Message for Spring: Stripes!"
Photographer: Marco Glaviano
Featuring: Kelly Emberg, Lisa Berkley, Leslie Winer


HB Archive

 

[blueorchid]

Harper's Bazaar March 1984
"Keep Your Eye On... Sinatra and Pavarotti in Concert"
Photographer: Francesco Scavullo
Featuring: Frank Sinatra, Luciano Pavarotti



Harper's Bazaar March 1984
"Keep Your Eye On... Candice Bergin's New Book Knock Wood"
Photographer: Marco Glaviano
Featuring: Candice Bergen



Harper's Bazaar March 1984
"Keep Your Eye On... Catherine Deneuve's New Film Fort Sagaane"
Photographer: Francesco Scavullo
Featuring: Catherine Deneuve



Harper's Bazaar March 1984
"On the Cuff"
Photographer: Bill Silano



Harper's Bazaar March 1984
"Easy for Evening!"
Photographer: Francesco Scavullo
Model: Lynn Howland, Kirsten Allen



Harper's Bazaar March 1984
"On the Cutting Edge... Adventuristic Fashion"
Photographer: Art Kane
Model: Iman


HB Archive

 

[justaguy]

HB routinely used actresses in their issues from the early 70s. Long before it became the norm.

 

[snmkytkn]

Thanks for the posting @blueorchid. It’s definitely a solid education of the brand pre-Liz x Fabien Bazaar. Can’t say that Anthony lacked a distinct sensibility— but can’t say I like it either. It’s so of its period and that’s there’s no mistaking it for any era but the tacky 80s LOL Just too 80s musical theatre/Broadway/piano bar mums and their gay BFF in aesthetic for my preference… The cluttered layout alone is a turn-off— like the overstuffed closet of a musical theatre diva’s dressing room… You can smell the suffocating, heaviness of YSL’s Opium; feel the dry, crunchiness of the cans upon cans of aerosol hairspray used in these shoots; hear Duran Duran on the sound system in Scavullo’s studio; ...the massive amount of coke casually shared...

I remember someone once wrote that before Liz x Fabien swept in to revolutionize Bazaar (and the standards of fashion publications in general), it had become this dusty department store catalogue by the late-80s. That’s something interesting to look forward to LOL

@Phuel why do you hate the 80s so much? And why are you following this page I am wondering indeed. I am not trying to be rude but I read some of your other comments about the 80s and obviously you have a big distaste for the era. I think that most of the people here like or love the 80s. Everyone has their own opinion about the era. I grew up during the 80s. I am 57. I remember those days with fondness. I liked and still like the models, the designers, the fashion magazines very much. @blueorchid 's posts make me very happy and I want to thank her. The 80s may be tacky but it was fun. Looking through the pages of fashion magazines gave the teens of that era, at least to me and my friends, considerable joy. The perfumes wafting from the inserts were, Giorgio's, Bijan for Women and White Linen, not Opium. The photography of editorials were colorful and optimistic. The models were smiling. Today fashion magazines are usually gloomy and "suffocating" with sulking underweight models . Photography is so much photoshopped that no model has the faintest hint of flow, they don't even have pores. Unnatural. It is a matter of taste I believe. I may be ranting . Sorry.

 

[snmkytkn]

Harper's Bazaar January 1984
"Five Top Models Bring You Fashion's Good News! For Spring"
Photographer: Jacques Malignon
Models: Shari Belafonte, Kirsten Allen, Carrie Miller, Jacki Adams, Donna Stia



Harper's Bazaar January 1984
"Luxury Leathers and... Sunlit Colors"
Photographer: Stan Malinowski
Models: Claire Atkinson, Rosemary McGrotha



Harper's Bazaar January 1984
"Luxury Leathers and... Sunlit Colors"
Photographer: Ron Lynch
Models: Lisa Ryall, Ashley Richardson



Harper's Bazaar January 1984
"The Wit of Spring! In Fashion.. in Film"
Photographer: Francesco Scavullo
Featuring: Michelle Johnson



Harper's Bazaar January 1984
"Smart Money Report"
Photographer: Peter Saks


HB Archive

Thanks a million @blueorchid for posting Ashley Richardson.

 

[blueorchid]

Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"You & The Great Outdoors!"
Photographer: Mike Reinhardt
Featuring: Merete Van Kamp



Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"Your Natural Guide to Beauty & Health"
Photographers: Bill Silano, Ron Lynch



Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"The 100% Naturals: Long, Easy, Cool Summer Dresses"
Photographer: Ron Lynch
Models: Donna Stia, Unknown



Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"Accessories Now.. Natural Wonders"
Photographer: Rico Puhlmann, Bill Silano
Model: Kirsten Allen



Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"Keep Your Eye On... Broadway Stars!"
Photographer: Francesco Scavullo
Featuring: Kate Nelligan, Peter Ustinov



Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"Paris: Art In Fashion"
Photographer: Dick Ballarian
Models: Kirsten Allen?, Unknown


HB Archive

 

[blueorchid]

Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"The Power of Flowers"
Photographer: Rico Puhlmann
Models: Andie MacDowell, Renata Vackoca



Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"Beautiful & Fit"
Photographer: Mike Reinhardt, Bill King, Bill Silano
Featuring: Merete Van Kamp, Cheryl Tiegs, Gilda Marx



Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"The Color is Black for the Summer"
Photographer: Ron Lynch
Models: Unknown



Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"Update Your Look"
Photographer: Nobumitsu
Models: Nancy DeWeir, Unknown


HB Archive

 

[blueorchid]

HB routinely used actresses in their issues from the early 70s. Long before it became the norm.

What I find funny about the actresses they used in the 80s is that they're mostly from television shows, not so much film. Especially with Linda Evans and Joan Collins getting covers, one after the other, consistently for 2 or 3 years. And so much Farrah Fawcett!!

 

[VBE]

HB routinely used actresses in their issues from the early 70s. Long before it became the norm.

It was always so strange to me that Anna Wintour gets credit for that phenomenon when Harper’s Bazaar and several other magazines began doing it way earlier. I have accepted that fashion history stops telling its story as time goes by and current followers of fashion do not look look back, only forward. It’s been interesting to watch American Vogue transition from high end fashion magazine to looking just like Redbook from the 70’s.

 

[VBE]

What I find funny about the actresses they used in the 80s is that they're mostly from television shows, not so much film. Especially with Linda Evans and Joan Collins getting covers, one after the other, consistently for 2 or 3 years. And so much Farrah Fawcett!!

It’s no different than when Jennifer Aniston or Sarah Jessica Parker or Blake Lively were doing covers consistently for top fashion magazines during their tv zenith. Farrah Fawcett, Linda Evans and Joan Collin’s were all huge cultural phenomenons on an international scale as were the tv shows that launched their careers, “Charlie’s Angels” and “Dynasty.” They could sell magazines. All three, Farrah, Linda and Joan had major beauty and/or fragrance contracts with major brands. Also, during the 80’s many film actress really moved away from heavily stylized glamour in order to be taken “seriously.”

 

[kasper!]

Too bad in this thread there is only one ed with Mary Tyler Moore.

 

[justaguy]

Too bad in this thread there is only one ed with Mary Tyler Moore.

True. She also just had one story with US Vogue, too.

 

[justaguy]

It was always so strange to me that Anna Wintour gets credit for that phenomenon when Harper’s Bazaar and several other magazines began doing it way earlier. I have accepted that fashion history stops telling its story as time goes by and current followers of fashion do not look look back, only forward. It’s been interesting to watch American Vogue transition from high end fashion magazine to looking just like Redbook from the 70’s.

Exactly! They made such a big deal about Anna using actors in the 90s when Diana and Grace had done it for decades!

 

[Phuel]

@Phuel why do you hate the 80s so much? And why are you following this page I am wondering indeed. I am not trying to be rude but I read some of your other comments about the 80s and obviously you have a big distaste for the era. I think that most of the people here like or love the 80s. Everyone has their own opinion about the era. I grew up during the 80s. I am 57. I remember those days with fondness. I liked and still like the models, the designers, the fashion magazines very much. @blueorchid 's posts make me very happy and I want to thank her. The 80s may be tacky but it was fun. Looking through the pages of fashion magazines gave the teens of that era, at least to me and my friends, considerable joy. The perfumes wafting from the inserts were, Giorgio's, Bijan for Women and White Linen, not Opium. The photography of editorials were colorful and optimistic. The models were smiling. Today fashion magazines are usually gloomy and "suffocating" with sulking underweight models . Photography is so much photoshopped that no model has the faintest hint of flow, they don't even have pores. Unnatural. It is a matter of taste I believe. I may be ranting . Sorry.

“Hate" is such an abrasive word. I would never say I hate anything: You’ll never find the term “hate” in any of my opinions when it pertains to fashion. However, yes— huge huge huge distaste for certain tropes of that decade and era in high fashion LOL …What I do like of that era may be best represented by the aesthetic of Calvin Klein by Bruce Weber; Guess by Wayne Maser; Armani by Herb Ritts etc etc There are very specific, very certain, and very precise imagery of that era I do like: The B-boys of then still underground hip hop culture; Prince and his very distinctive entourage of stylescape and soundscape; Madonna specifically of her 1983-1984 period (I’ve gotten lost rewatching her “Lucky Star” video over and over), certain performers and their style, like Philip Oakey, David Sylvian, Les Rita Mitsouko, and Ray Petri’s Buffalo style. But in terms of fashion, and more specifically high fashion, I find it the most unattractive and uninspired era when compared to other fashion decades (although Emmanuelle’s Vogue has been the sole proposal that revisioned the 80s and all its excessive gaudiness in a convincing high fashion representation). And because I have no emotional association to that era as a whole, when I see that brand of trendy, maximalist, overwrought aesthetic, with the teased, crunchy, feathered, layered hairstyles and the excessively oversized styling that’s hugely represented in this thread, it’s just natural response/reaction to reject it as a design proposal: It’s nothing personal.

 

[blueorchid]

Harper's Bazaar May 1984
"A Fabulous Body at Any Age"
Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier
Model: Christie Brinkley



Harper's Bazaar May 1984
"A Fabulous Body at Any Age"
Photographers: Marco Glaviano, Francesco Scavullo, Milton H. Greene
Featuring: Paulina Porizkova, Nancy DeWeir, Renée Simonsen, Carol Alt, Joan Severance, Shirley MacLaine, Priscilla Presley, Maud Adams, Lori Singer, Ursula Andress



Harper's Bazaar May 1984
"Summer Hits"
Photographers: Patrick Demarchelier, Milton H. Greene, Marco Glaviano
Featuring: Gregory Hines, Harrison Ford, Steve Martin, Lily Tomlin, Diane Lane, Michael Paré, Kate Capshaw, Dudley Moore, Jane Fonda, Bernadette Peters, Mandy Patinkin



Harper's Bazaar May 1984
"Keep Your Eye On... Giorgio Armani"
Photographer: Francesco Scavullo
Model: Patti Hansen



Harper's Bazaar May 1984
"Cutouts"
Photographer: Rico Puhlmann
Models: Jacki Adams, Renée Simonsen, Kirsten Allen


HB Archive

 

[blueorchid]

Harper's Bazaar May 1984
"Sports For Today's Strong Body"
Photographer: Ron Lynch
Models: Unknown



Harper's Bazaar May 1984
"Super Sparkle"
Photographer: Rico Puhlmann
Models: Nancy Decker, Kirsten Allen



Harper's Bazaar May 1984
"Taking Off: The Warm Weather Traveler"
Photographer: Paul Amato
Models: Renata Vackova, Nancy Decker



Harper's Bazaar May 1984
"Taking Off: The Warm Weather Traveler"
Photographer: Marco Glaviano
Model: Kirsten Allen


HB Archive