A Retrospective : US Harper's Bazaar under Anthony Mazzola (1972–1992)

[Deleted member 116957]

@Freespirit Thank you! The 70s will come. I started posting random issues a few weeks ago, but then decided it might be better to be more organized, so I am working my way through the 80s and then I'll go back to the 1970s. The late 80s/90s stuff under Anthony Mazzola wasn't scanned very well in the archives, so I probably won't post much from those years.

 

[justaguy]

So nice to see how much HB used Clotilde. It's a shame US Vogue didn't.

 

[Jacek]

So nice to see how much HB used Clotilde. It's a shame US Vogue didn't.

Since the magazines started they demanded fealty.
Because Harper's worked with Clotilde (and she was Jacques Malignon's wife - he was a Harper's photographer), Vogue wouldn't.
It was generally an either-or situation with the magazines, photographers and models.
Not so much hair and makeup since there were only a few of them.
Many people destroyed their careers by choosing/dissing one or the other.

 

[justaguy]

Since the magazines started they demanded fealty.
Because Harper's worked with Clotilde (and she was Jacques Malignon's wife - he was a Harper's photographer), Vogue wouldn't.
It was generally an either-or situation with the magazines, photographers and models.
Not so much hair and makeup since there were only a few of them.
Many people destroyed their careers by choosing/dissing one or the other.

That's a shame because the few stories she did for US Vogue were beautiful.

 

[Freespirit]

Since the magazines started they demanded fealty.
Because Harper's worked with Clotilde (and she was Jacques Malignon's wife - he was a Harper's photographer), Vogue wouldn't.
It was generally an either-or situation with the magazines, photographers and models.
Not so much hair and makeup since there were only a few of them.
Many people destroyed their careers by choosing/dissing one or the other.

Ohhh I find this behind-the-scenes-info so intriguing... there was so much more going on then just making beautiful images...

 

[Deleted member 116957]

Since the magazines started they demanded fealty.
Because Harper's worked with Clotilde (and she was Jacques Malignon's wife - he was a Harper's photographer), Vogue wouldn't.
It was generally an either-or situation with the magazines, photographers and models.
Not so much hair and makeup since there were only a few of them.
Many people destroyed their careers by choosing/dissing one or the other.

Actually, that's something so interesting that's very, very rarely mentioned. I think the only time I've read about this from a photographer was in Helmut Newton's autobiography, when he shot a collection preview for Queen magazine while he was under contract with Vogue Paris, and was fired for it! He was allowed back a few years later when Francine Crescent became the new editor of Vogue Paris.

 

[Jacek]

Actually, that's something so interesting that's very, very rarely mentioned. I think the only time I've read about this from a photographer was in Helmut Newton's autobiography, when he shot a collection preview for Queen magazine while he was under contract with Vogue Paris, and was fired for it! He was allowed back a few years later when Francine Crescent became the new editor of Vogue Paris.

You will find out all about it in my documentary Art Be Damned! coming soon.

Art Be Damned! | Documentary

Art Be Damned!: Directed by Jacek Kropinski. With Paulina Porizkova, Christie Brinkley, Carol Alt, Beverly Johnson. A Documentary on the Golden Age of Fashion Photography. They came from Paris to New York and established a new order. Was it for the art or was it simply the fashion?

www.imdb.com

In post-production now.

 

[Jacek]

Actually, that's something so interesting that's very, very rarely mentioned. I think the only time I've read about this from a photographer was in Helmut Newton's autobiography, when he shot a collection preview for Queen magazine while he was under contract with Vogue Paris, and was fired for it! He was allowed back a few years later when Francine Crescent became the new editor of Vogue Paris.

Ohhh I find this behind-the-scenes-info so intriguing... there was so much more going on then just making beautiful images...

I know, right? See my response to @blueorchid

 

[Deleted member 116957]

Thanks for sharing that @Jacek. I love it when fashion goes a bit "inside baseball," as they say, lol.

 

[Jacek]

Thanks for sharing that @Jacek. I love it when fashion goes a bit "inside baseball," as they say, lol.

I assisted Mike Reinhardt for 4 years 77-81, before becoming a fashion photographer myself in Europe for 25 years, so I know these people and the behind-the-scenes stories. It is to me the golden era in fashion photography.

 

[Freespirit]

Harper's Bazaar November 1980
"Takeoff to Touchdown: Great Going Looks!"
Photographer: Jacques Malignon
Models: Unknown



HB Archive

This shoot done in a very Harpers' Bazaar style of happiness and smiles, feels very inspired by a legendary Chris von Wangenheim shoot, that was shot a year before... LINK

Its amazing to see how different the 2 biggest fashion magazines portrayed fashion and lifestyle...and the models in the late 70s and early 80s....I am so fascinated. Thanks again for uploading the archives 🤗

 

[Kiyoko]

The models from this era are so amazing - Eva Voorhes; Juli Foster; Nancy Deweir; Bitten; Carrie Nygren; Eva Wallen; Peggy Dillard - they don’t get enough credit. I understand why Gia gets a lot of the attention but when you see the models from this period she was just one of many great great fashion models. I might not have been there but I was a true magazine junkie at this time - amazing. Thanks for the memories

 

[Freespirit]

The models from this era are so amazing - Eva Voorhes; Juli Foster; Nancy Deweir; Bitten; Carrie Nygren; Eva Wallen; Peggy Dillard - they don’t get enough credit. I understand why Gia gets a lot of the attention but when you see the models from this period she was just one of many great great fashion models. I might not have been there but I was a true magazine junkie at this time - amazing. Thanks for the memories

You are so right about that...Juli, Eva, Bitten, Peggy, all the way to Patti, Rosie and Lisa....they were exceptional fashion models.... love them! Very appreciating seeing all these wonderful editorials... thanks again @blueorchid

 

[Freespirit]

I know, right? See my response to @blueorchid

Can't wait....hope it will be also available to stream...

 

[Jacek]

Can't wait....hope it will be also available to stream...

Hopefully!

 

[Deleted member 116957]

Harper's Bazaar June 1982
"Under 30! Over Night Stars"
Photographer: Francesco Scavullo, Matthew Rolston, Bob Stone
Featuring: Brooke Shields, Sheryl Lee Ralph, Deborah Burrell, Devine, Isabella Rossellini, Michelle Pfeiffer, Maxwell Caulfield, Alison Price, Lorna Luft, Maureen Teefy, Shaun Casey, Eva Voorhees, Carol Alt, Iman, Clotilde, Demi Moore, Blanche Baker, Tanya Tucker



Harper's Bazaar June 1982
"Keep Your Eye On Carly Simon... in Clothes by Norma Kamali"
Photographer: Dick Ballarian
Featuring: Carly Simon



Harper's Bazaar June 1982
"Sizzle"
Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier
Models: Andie MacDowell, Nancy Decker



HB Archive

 

[Deleted member 116957]

Harper's Bazaar June 1982
"Fall Forecast"
Illustrator: Joe Eula



Harper's Bazaar June 1982
"Summer Finds"
Photographer: Nobumitsu
Models: Vanessa Angel, Terri May, Juli Foster, Catherine Oxenberg, Bitten Knudsen, Jerri Narr



Harper's Bazaar June 1982
"Sensational Seasonless Jackets!"
Photographer: Jacques Malignon
Models: Donna Stia, Rosemary McGrotha



Harper's Bazaar June 1982
"The Perfect Fall Dresses"
Photographer: Jacques Malignon
Models: Rosemary McGrotha, Terri May



HB Archive

 

[justaguy]

Scavullo and Donna Stia...pure magic. Thanks again for all these beautiful posts @blueorchid !!

 

[Deleted member 116957]

Harper's Bazaar July 1982
"Fashion in Action! Energy, Vitality, Adventure!"
Photographer: Stan Malinowski
Model: Donna Stia



Harper's Bazaar July 1982
"Summer Sports Guide"
Photographer: Stan Malinowski, Patrick Demarchelier
Models: Donna Stia, Christie Brinkley, Lisa Ryall, Shaun Casey, Kelly Emberg



Harper's Bazaar July 1982
"Cooling Off!"
Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier
Model: Kelly Emberg



Harper's Bazaar July 1982
"Single Again!"
Photographer: Bob Stone
Featuring: Janice Dickinson, Diane von Furstenberg, Carmen Dell'Orefice, Barbara Allen



Harper's Bazaar July 1982
"Big Time Evening Dressing!"
Photographer: Francesco Scavullo
Models: Isabella Rossellini, Rosemary McGrotha, Carol Alt, Nancy DeWier



HB Archive

 

[Deleted member 116957]

Harper's Bazaar July 1982
"Black and Hot! This Fall, the Word from Paris"
Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier
Models: Paulina Porizkova, Eva Wallen, Donna Stia, Shaun Casey, Unknown



Harper's Bazaar July 1982
"Slimming Down! The Message From Milan"
Photographer: Stan Malinowski
Models: Lisa Berkley, Iman, Shaun Casey



Harper's Bazaar July 1982
"The New, Narrow, New York Fall"
Photographer: Albert Watson
Models: Andie MacDowell, Rosemarcy McGrotha, Nancy DeWeir, Nancy Decker, Eva Voorhees



Harper's Bazaar July 1982
"Sensational Summer Movies"
Photographer: Bob Stone
Featuring: JoBeth Williams



Harper's Bazaar July 1982
"First Class Executive Dressing"
Photographer: Bob Stone
Models: Vanessa Angel, Ty Hendrick



HB Archive