AF Vandevorst closing their company

donyan

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from their Instagram

"After a 22 year journey we, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx, announce the closure of our fashion label A.F.Vandevorst.
Spring Summer 2020 will be our last collection available in store.
We are humbled and honoured to be known for exploring new boundaries; for creating a strong DNA with collections in a universe of fetishes, sensual folds and poetic extravagance; for effortlessly blending elements inspired by uniforms with subversive femininity and tailoring.
The dynamics in the fashion world have changed.
It is more challenging, uncertain and disruptive than ever before.
We came to the realization that we won’t be able to maintain the same level of creativity and focus on story telling rather than product.
To work in a way that has always distinguished us.
We are proud of what we have accomplished in over two decades and we would like to thank all people involved.
During these 22 years the loyalty and support of our clients, suppliers, consumers, collaborators, stylists and editors, contributors and our staff, have allowed us to bring our ideas and dreams to life.
We are happy to end in beauty and look forward to exploring new horizons.

Our Antwerp Store and Offices remain open until the end of August."

This is very sad. They were one of the few remaining independent designers and an alternative voice. I will miss them.
 
I've admired their work since I was a teenager and spotted one of their pieces in a magazine. As I've gotten older, the admiration only grew when I understood even more how hard and rare it is to run a business that has a soul, true to your identity and still make profit in order to stay open.. especially in an industry where nearly all of their peers have disappeared and that currently seems to punish independence, individuality or the kind of creativity that's transformative and not limited to the color of a sneaker. I'm not surprised or even that sad that they're closing business because.. who belongs in fashion these days? what does it endorse and who is their audience? the big houses ate it all up like a vacuum and most people into fashion couldn't love them more for that. In fact, they might be 'aw' about this... as they wonder who will be in which big house next and/or directly support them.

I'm just grateful for their influence (which I carry with me) and the lessons they leave behind because there really hasn't been a collection they have done that is not explorative but also a continuation of their story and that is important not just for those getting into fashion but for anyone trying to make it anywhere, it helps you set a bar in terms of how you conduct yourself later.
 
I'm also not surprised by the news. It feels like it's been a while since they last had a show during Fashion Week. Pretty bummed about them shutting down the company completely, I think they probably could have survived with just the A Friend brand - everything is super wearable and cute and I'd imagine it sold pretty well? (Glad I have a trip to Antwerp already booked for this Spring, hopefully I can get a few more pieces before it's all gone!). I do totally understand their reasons for not wanting to be part of the current soulless fashion machinery.

The article on vogue.com talks a little bit about their plans for their archives and also mentions that they're not leaving fashion altogether:

After 22 Years in the Business An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx Decide to “Stop in Beauty”
 
Long favorites of mine, quite admirable that they never sold out, they kept their integrity, and put out one excellent collection after another.
 
Everyone that admired and followed this duo were already expecting their final bow (I thought they were already in the process of folding…), but it’s such a slap in the face of genuine talent when another superior label passes into fashion history when the announcement is official.

There really is no space and place in these days for such masterful storytellers sadly, and they were one of the last evocative dreamweavers who effortlessly transported their audience to another time and place, in the tradition of a more street McQueen/Gaillano/Gaultier, all the while offering artisanal, couture-y and very personal sartorial pieces that could slip into any stylish woman’s wardrobe. I still get lost in their shows of which at their best, always had a cinematic noir-ish narrative, surreal air but all so effortlessly portrayed and produced without the burden of theatrics that they could seamlessly walk right out of a dream and onto the streets: The footsteps of the models’ heels on marble floors to the painterly Magritte-esque women reimagined as Le Samurai to Patti Smith that was the brand of stylish, modern romanticism they instilled :swoon: Their brand of eerie cool that belongs alongside Helmut/Ann/Olivier Theyskens isn't encouraged and en vogue next to the gimmick-burdened, desperately-seeking-attention Edina Monsoon and Zoolander cartoons that’s defined fashion victimhood of this era.

Dire days now. And people wonder why some are so enamoured of the recent Marc Jacobs collection: You hold on to any glimmer of relaxed and effortless elegance that’s full of mood and story wherever you still can :sigh:
 
Good for them if this is what will make them feel fulfilled, while securing a steady income.

Still saddened that they may very well have left their brand of a distinct flair of design that’s dreamily and dramatically graphic and still so thoughtfully accessible behind them now. Neve say never and all that— and still hopeful they may resurrect their brand one day. And if I were a bright-eyed kid with all the optimism to dream bigger and better than what mediocrity fashion has for offer these days, I’d absolutely be thrilled to enrol in this school and learn from them.
 

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