Alaïa F/W 2024.25 Paris

his curiosity when it comes to fabrics, construction and fashion history sets him apart from frauds like LdSS and j*cquemus.

This made my night lmao

I get Pieter’s “intellectualism” but I do agree that he needs to tone it down at times and also needs to be curious more of women and their way of dressing maybe to better understand Alaïa

I quite enjoyed this collection though. I feel like he’s improving and I hope he stays with Alaïa for long because I don’t see anyone who would be a better fit for the brand than him
 
Finally we have his first convincing collection, I almost gave up by now.
There are quite a few misses still but when it's good, it's really fabulous to be honest.
Raf Simons and Mathieu Blazy in the audience: please take notes!
Most of it is so sleek and fearless. The styling is on point, well done Aleksandra Woroniecka.

When you forget this is supposed to be for the house of Alaia, it's even better.
Comparing it to the master will always have an unfavorable outcome.
Having said that, since Richemont seems so eager to continue with the brand, maybe their choice for Pieter won't be so terrible after all.
 
Annoying *** video. Altho I thought the shots of the people looking in from outside were cute lol. All the slomo and constant cuts moving all over the place took me out of the fantasy. I get it's great for the details, but the personal vids posted to instagram made everything look so much stronger, fresher, and elegant. Maybe because it's from the perspective of actually being in the space as a person, watching from one POV without any sort of filters, the rawer beauty of it all came through much clearer. Like that one vid of Felice flipping her hair getting ready to walk out. Felt so much more chic.
 
The problem is that Alaïa clothes were wrapped over the women he dressed. Here the women are wrapped under the clothes they dress.
 
The presentation was amazing, but that's to be expected with Mulier's Alaia. The collection was not his best. As usual, some great looks and some not so much. I wish he had continued designing in the style of the winter/spring 24 show. It will always remain my favorite from him.
 
I like this especially the more minimalist pieces. The proportions on some of the puffy pieces seem to be tricky. As a whole it still is chic and sophisticated without trying too hard.
 
It's suddenly better than this last collection, but frankly I'm already moved on from his Alaïa

Another weird, cold and sterile experiment from Pieter that I'll never get. What's is his intention with for brand? For the enormous legacy of Azzedine?
For a brand that built from embrace the the female body, Pieter work always look like he trying detach from it for the sake of his aesthetic.
Again there is no sensuality in his work despite all the technical skills of the ateliers.


The look on Mona and the white version after that, look like a whole boob slip accident waiting to happen, I just can't. Azzedine would never.
For me Alexandre Vauthier is the one who understand the spirit of Alaia the most…

Mullier is good with outerwear, I must say that. I have seen some pieces that almost made want to break the bank.

When I look at his clothes, I ask myself if the well known Alaïa women we know would wear this. I don’t see Carine in this stuff. I don’t see Farida in this stuff. I don’t even see Naomi in this stuff…I mean she isn’t the most stylish person but when she wore Alaia, she looked fabulous. Now, she looks like those embarrassing Brand Ambassadors!
How is this a couture collection?’

Alaïa has never really done full Couture collections. He has always done a mix of Couture and RTW and therefore a mix of season.

Therefore, they have kept this tradition in a more organized way.
I wouldn’t be surprised to learn that some pieces here are « Couture » or « Demi Couture ».

The craftsmanship is good, we cannot deny it!
 
I think Mr. Alaïa only produce and show collections when he feel like it.
I believe Azzedine did seasonal collections, but he would show when the collection was finished (usually a couple of weeks after Paris Fashion Week ended). It worked, because his shows were always simple salon shows held in his Verriére headquarters (they relocated to Mossy when he died to allow space for the foundation)

Under Mulier, they still show off-schedule but, now, earlier than the rest of the calendar. It's more of an organised system, which was probably done in an attempt to rebuild an audience after the post-Azzedine slump of archive rehashes.
 
My problem with the raf school of design (looking at you simons, muller, and blazy) is that they are all too fixated on concepts (whether it be a look, a technique, or a material) at the expense of the end user experience.

Their clothes are all beautiful to look at and are interesting intellectually, but how they serve the wearer, how they make the wearer feel, how they can enhance wearers’ daily lives are a different story.
 

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