Alaïa Resort 2026 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Phuel]

When he’s less contrived, less desperate and less strained and thinking of women first, he actually conjures up some really impressive separates. The leathers especially, are lush and luxe; the purple leather jumpsuit is strangely magical: Very true to Azzedine’s offerings of a sharp but effortless graphic silhouette. That gray dress with the pleated skirt with a touch of structured peplum and girdle is probably the strongest and still sensual silhouette he’s designed. Impeccably gorgeous. Bink’s deep navy velvet gown is a very close runner up.

 

[Lola701]

Not so bad…
I like the Balmain SS2013 look on Mona…
How ironic. Phoebe copied Alaia, Pieter is using the same exact references as her from Azzedine and then it looks less fresh.

I used to love Alaia. The bags, shoes and clothes were great. They used to make the best boots with high heels with Chanel.

I just can’t with his work.
Much like some members have an aversion for Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, I have the same sentiment towards Pieter’s work for Alaia.

 

[jeanclaude]

pinimg.com
y.yarn.co

 

[LadyJunon]

According to the Vogue Review, this was extremely difficult to make:

As for the vivid pink, long double-satin bias-cut number? “Very easy to look at, extremely difficult to make,” Mulier attested. “That’s a funny story,” he continued, “because I made it for one of my best friends for a wedding first. We looked at it and we liked it so much that we made a little collection of them.” Better than a double-take, it’s a stop-you-in-your-tracks kind of dress.

 

[Nimsay]

The square toe with that hideous belt and white coat is a lot. The sheer mesh pants are a mess. The best look is the leather twisted bustier with plisse skirt. Really not great and mostly dumb looking clothes.

I think just looking at the iconic silhouette on Grace. I dont see a fitted hip with draped bodice at all. Lots of Carine Roitfeld peplum though.

 

[jeanclaude]

According to the Vogue Review, this was extremely difficult to make:

Pieter trying to figure out how to make a 90s generic bias-satin slip-on dress:

It´s pure engineering!! Shame on you, Charles James!!

pinimg.com

 

[psychopsist]

According to the Vogue Review, this was extremely difficult to make:

What could this even mean? I genuinely wonder

 

[Salvatore]

Galliano can bias cut in his sleep. I don't think it's really interesting to know that a piece was laboured over anymore or how difficult it was to make. Somehow him saying takes the magic away.

I went to look at and purchase some Maison Charles lights that are handmade. Instead of telling me how difficult and labour intensive it is to make them, they let me see the atelier and the artisans working which let me come to my own conclusion on the amount of work and worth instead of saying « it's sooooo hard to make this » ....

 

[Lola701]

What could this even mean? I genuinely wonder

Satin, is a very tricky, lively fabric. Biais cut is a very meticulous construction and depending on the way he cut the dress on the biais, it could be difficult because it added a bit elasticity.

Azzedine didn’t worked that much with Satin. He used Rayon and Acetate a lot and later, a lot of very technical jersey.

Galliano can bias cut in his sleep. I don't think it's really interesting to know that a piece was laboured over anymore or how difficult it was to make. Somehow him saying takes the magic away.

Mostly because it’s a technique he is particularly obsessed with. It doesn’t make it any less difficult.
A lot of designers, with the same level of high techniques as John can do biais cut. The only difference is that because John is particularly obsessed by that, he went as far as cutting everything on a biais. He has really pushed his craft.

 

[PDFSD]

Satin, is a very tricky, lively fabric. Bias cut is a very meticulous construction and depending on the way he cut the dress on the biais, it could be difficult because it added a bit elasticity.

Azzedine didn’t worked that much with Satin. He used Rayon and Acetate a lot and later, a lot of very technical jersey.


Mostly because it’s a technique he is particularly obsessed with. It doesn’t make it any less difficult.
A lot of designers, with the same level of high techniques as John can do biais cut. The only difference is that because John is particularly obsessed by that, he went as far as cutting everything on a biais. He has really pushed his craft.

Pieter Pieter the Kool Aid Man .....
Then just say its a bias cut without making it so mysterious lol
its also a commercial collection so it can't be that huge effort ...then it should stay in the show pieces .....
also its bit useless on the basis when its so over sized and just diagonal seam in lower front to flex its bias.

many mid tier brands have silk bias cut dresses for 200 - 300 euro ...dior cranked those bais cuts dresses like they where t shirts during JG time lol

again bring it back to the man himself Azzedine spend months and years finding or perfection new techniques and it was beyond trying to master basi cut with silk lol

for 4600 euro thes dress falls sloppy there's so much volume in the lower parts that its bulk and you lose the bias drape thats liquid gold when done well , you see the pulling on the back seams your better of draping yourself in your silk sheets to seduce your man/sugar daddy or one night stand etc

 

[tricotineacetat]

Satin, is a very tricky, lively fabric. Biais cut is a very meticulous construction and depending on the way he cut the dress on the biais, it could be difficult because it added a bit elasticity.

Azzedine didn’t worked that much with Satin. He used Rayon and Acetate a lot and later, a lot of very technical jersey.


Mostly because it’s a technique he is particularly obsessed with. It doesn’t make it any less difficult.
A lot of designers, with the same level of high techniques as John can do biais cut. The only difference is that because John is particularly obsessed by that, he went as far as cutting everything on a biais. He has really pushed his craft.

Alber had a particular liking for those slippery technical satins and crepes during his time at Lanvin, fabrics that need particular care in the cutting and sewing due to the particular difficulty of handling they possess - In the worst case, pinning the pattern pieces on the fabric, which means you can't industrially cut several layers at once in the same way as you can with cotton or wool.

The second thing you need to do with bias-cut is putting weights on each pattern piece to avoid the finished garment does not distort afterwards.

I doubt your average mid-market satin slip dress has undergone any if these steps but Alaia probably doesn't produce dresses like these in large quantities, meaning they are likely done with this 'atelier-style' hand.

 

[tricotineacetat]

(Anyway, as Karl used to say - Nobody wants to hear a designer sell his designs like that to the public, it does not communicate as particularly confident in your product when you need to highlight those pains)

 

[PDFSD]

Alber had a particular liking for those slippery technical satins and crepes during his time at Lanvin, fabrics that need particular care in the cutting and sewing due to the particular difficulty of handling they possess - In the worst case, pinning the pattern pieces on the fabric, which means you can't industrially cut several layers at once in the same way as you can with cotton or wool.

The second thing you need to do with bias-cut is putting weights on each pattern piece to avoid the finished garment does not distort afterwards.

I doubt your average mid-market satin slip dress has undergone any if these steps but Alaia probably doesn't produce dresses like these in large quantities, meaning they are likely done with this 'atelier-style' hand.

i know mid tear factories doing also cuts with weights and smaller quantities for certain things by hand and having a mix of industrial with hand production intervention its not unique to high fashion or expensive HC level only.

its like china does perfect fully handknits and if you have hand same doen in europe your paying hermes prices and the china hand one is RL prices

the mark up of midtier silk bias dress versus ALAIA is just way bigger

beside this 3 colors they have of this dress the all fall ugly below the hips and at the back so hope it will be a best seller lol

and the dress just say 100% silk
100% mulberry silk is the highest quality silk, while 100% silk could refer to a product of lower quality. lolz

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Alber had a particular liking for those slippery technical satins and crepes during his time at Lanvin, fabrics that need particular care in the cutting and sewing due to the particular difficulty of handling they possess - In the worst case, pinning the pattern pieces on the fabric, which means you can't industrially cut several layers at once in the same way as you can with cotton or wool.

The second thing you need to do with bias-cut is putting weights on each pattern piece to avoid the finished garment does not distort afterwards.

I doubt your average mid-market satin slip dress has undergone any if these steps but Alaia probably doesn't produce dresses like these in large quantities, meaning they are likely done with this 'atelier-style' hand.

Alber used some short comings or annoying nuances to his advantage. His joyous use of frayed edges, and even constructing interesting forms from the one cloth that focused strong on bias placement was always wondrous.

Plus he understood high/low. The bias ribbon pieces paired with a slick simple pant or skirt with fun costume jewellery, a blouson and skirt combo mounted on a washed dyed calico dress base with a huge exposed metal zip as a fun feature. He used budget to embrace spontaneity and rawness. Alaia in way was the same. Why use silk satin charmeuse when you can use a tricot acetate/rayon and have fun sexing it up for the form and the working body. Jersey can be done in the most lithe of ways, but it also makes it more accessible for the everyday. They embraced a sense of fun both in terms of the show for a technical sense but also for the wardrobe.

They also got on with it. Hacked and slashed at fittings as the body warmed it all up and made the garments their own. Pieter designs like a gallery curator. There’s a coldness and aloofness that makes everything so overwrought and clinical.

 

[PDFSD]

Alber used some short comings or annoying nuances to his advantage. His joyous use of frayed edges, and even constructing interesting forms from the one cloth that focused strong on bias placement was always wondrous.

Plus he understood high/low. The bias ribbon pieces paired with a slick simple pant or skirt with fun costume jewellery, a blouson and skirt combo mounted on a washed dyed calico dress base with a huge exposed metal zip as a fun feature. He used budget to embrace spontaneity and rawness. Alaia in way was the same. Why use silk satin charmeuse when you can use a tricot acetate/rayon and have fun sexing it up for the form and the working body. Jersey can be done in the most lithe of ways, but it also makes it more accessible for the everyday. They embraced a sense of fun both in terms of the show for a technical sense but also for the wardrobe.

They also got on with it. Hacked and slashed at fittings as the body warmed it all up and made the garments their own. Pieter designs like a gallery curator. There’s a coldness and aloofness that makes everything so overwrought and clinical.

Designs like a gallery curator. There’s a coldness and aloofness that makes everything so overwrought and clinical.
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