Alexandre Vauthier F/W 2023.24 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Lola701]

I don’t get why Emmanuelle styled it like an Ed with dirty sneakers…
Vauthier’s RTW is always an adaptation of his Couture so nothing really much to say.

 

[LadyJunon]

I don’t get why Emmanuelle styled it like an Ed with dirty sneakers…
Vauthier’s RTW is always an adaptation of his Couture so nothing really much to say.

I like this "business model" though. It's a very smart merchandising trick.

The couture collection acts as an extravagant and experimental prelude to the ready-to-wear collection. It gets a physical runway show and an accompanying film, which allows it to be seen by lot of people, who could eventually buy the ready-to-wear collection.

The ready-to-wear collection is a more approachable and accessible version of the couture collection. It only gets a lookbook, which saves money. The sales of the ready-to-wear collection finances the whole operation.

Lots of the designers on the couture schedule could benefit from this sort of operation as it "democratises" the couture collection, saves money on marketing and alleviates the pressure of having to offer four completely unique runway collections a year.

Also, yes those dirty sneakers need to go.

 

[Lola701]

I like this "business model" though. It's a very smart merchandising trick.

The couture collection acts as an extravagant and experimental prelude to the ready-to-wear collection. It gets a physical runway show and an accompanying film, which allows it to be seen by lot of people, who could eventually buy the ready-to-wear collection.

The ready-to-wear collection is a more approachable and accessible version of the couture collection. It only gets a lookbook, which saves money. The sales of the ready-to-wear collection finances the whole operation.

Lots of the designers on the couture schedule could benefit from this sort of operation as it "democratises" the couture collection, saves money on marketing and alleviates the pressure of having to offer four completely unique runway collections a year.

Also, yes those dirty sneakers need to go.

Working for the HC Department of both Gaultier and Mugler definitely gave him a 360 POV on how to operate a viable Couture Maison (having the wife of the ceo of one of the biggest brand in fashion as a partner is also cool).
It’s quite interesting to see that he has build a luxury brand without his own retail. Everything is wholesale + his Maison de Couture and celebrities does the job of having his brand around.

I feel like he won’t ever need to have a RTW show. He can expand his brand by having more categories (I’m not convinced by his collaboration with Zanotti) and ultimately launch a fragrance.

He is a very clever designer. He is also business minded and it’s a plus…

 

[Phuel]

^^^ He’s in such an admirable, unique— and likely extremely enviable position in terms of how a label has secured its financial status, while maintaining its creative profile with little to no commercial compromise: Not a single outlet-perch in sight. That he can invest in, and expand his Couture branding, while seemingly investing the minimal effort in his RTW branding, but still having healthy orders (and sales?), is such a dream for genuine talents. It's inspirational, really.

Unfortunate it's only 12 measly looks presented here, but it gets the needed accessible option out there to stockists/customers. And it’s a good editorial (… even those vintage German sneakers are a good styling option to bring the designs to a more playful, down-to-earth mood.)