Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture S/S 2025 Paris

Less sexy than his usual offerings, I was hoping it would have a more trashy vibe with hooker and club girl aesthetics, reminiscent of the old-school French Vogue. He lost me halfway after Audrey Marnay's look by presenting Clare's Givenchy and ending with Hedi's Celine sequins and bubble shapes.
 
A total surprise - terrifically coherent, great tailoring, real attitude. The references to early Balenciaga by Nicholas Ghesquiere, and even Helmut Lang, were unexpected, but not out of place with the signature Vauthier look.
 
MARPESSA!
The styling is killing me here. It’s just too much and while the quality reads through the screen, it looks too sloppy!
I love the pink marabou coat and the fringes situation.
It’s very 80’s Versace with some 1960’s classic silhouettes so the clash is interesting even though it’s not as smooth as I would expect, due to the styling.

I’m happy he is back!
 
If only he trashed the 4 looks that has the women looking like they’re without a waist /pregnant/bloated, this would be s supreme execution in effortless and still laser-sharp precision.

The prominent shoulders; the asymmetry; the volume; the draping, and edited in a reserved palette and still ravishing in presence— all lethally executed.

What a stunning display of superior excellence technique/craftsmanship/creative vision and presentation next to what a much lesser as that Jacquemus person attempted similarly, but instead looking like a severely budgeted, inexperienced American sportswear label cosplaying French couture.
 
^^ I think Jacquemus disrespects viewers by thinking that if he only changes the venue and format of the show, that he can pass as skilled as the others and automatically receive the same reverence. Whoever is advising him probably had a past at H&M Studio, which, unlike Topshop Unique (lol- they knew their place and their shows were fun), really wanted to recreate every step of the traditional fashion show in order to deceive and sell, with higher exclusivity, H&M stuff. It just doesn't work that way..

I agree about this.. minus look 29 and the very last one, which imo could only be done with charm by someone like Karl, someone with a lot of confidence in every existing silhouette, this is lovely and.. rather Lemaire here and there (esp in the beginning).
 
Love the flow of the silhouettes, the volume- that's my biggest observation;
couture and RTW alike have so much been a focus on volume. Which I love.
 
Fantastic cast and so good to see him back in relatively fine form.

I do agree that the styling is really off here. And some of the looks are a tad conservative and difficult but like the Lanvin collection, there is bit of an intention clientele wise which is a smart thing to do. Business has to stay afloat and keep moving so I wish him all the best.

It does make me wish he were the one to go to Alaia or YSL just because he has such a joyous sensibility, even when it becomes sexier. Maybe even Tom Ford over Ackermann…
 
It does make me wish he were the one to go to Alaia or YSL just because he has such a joyous sensibility, even when it becomes sexier. Maybe even Tom Ford over Ackermann…
I had the same thought about him going to Tom Ford. They both have a similar sexy glamour aesthetic. He'd probably be a better fit than Ackermann (who I kinda wanted for Balenciaga).
 

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