Antonio Marras F/W 11.12 Milan

[MulletProof]

The relationship between an Italian man and his mother is the stuff of legend. In Sardinia, where Antonio Marras was born and still lives, it's at its most intense. Beyond blood, Mamma is roots—where you belong. In basing his new collection on his mother Nannina, Marras won himself a whole lot of creative brownie points. Passion, commitment, and memory provided three powerful cornerstones.

Marras is the middle child of five. Maybe the fact that he looked up to his mother so much accounted for the lean, elongated silhouette, with the models perched on high, thick heels. The shape also chimed with the forties feel, the era when Nannina was at her most beautiful. So skirts fell to mid-calf, there was a strong emphasis on the waist, and the models wore seamed silk stockings. The bright red lips and hair pulled back into a loose bun were also borrowed from Nannina's look. And the floral dress she wore the day she took her son to the movies for the first time was refracted through the roses and poppies that were printed on silk skirts and tops.

But her influence on the collection was even more fundamental. Nannina used to work with a seamstress to remodel vintage menswear for herself. That's a habit her son has turned into a career. Here, a man's jacket in houndstooth or herringbone had been dissected and put back together again on the base of another jacket, its pockets trimmed with marabou, its torso decorated with jet embroidery. This is the esoteric luxury of Antonio Marras, and in that same spirit a peacoat sported an astrakhan collar, while a full-length double-breasted officer's coat was turned into a floor-sweeping gown. The designer has his own kind of alchemy—he turned a pair of sailor pants into a floor-length skirt.

At the end of the show, the huge backdrop of Nannina's image splintered to reveal 38 models in deconstructed and reconstructed black slips with a man's white collar at their throats. Mamma and Pappa Marras reunited on their son's catwalk—it was yet another fashion moment, courtesy of Milan's hidden treasure.

-Tim Blanks.

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[MulletProof]

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[before]

I love this collection. SO MUCH. I don't have much to say since the pictures speak for themselves here. It's not too much of anything, thus perfect for me.

 

[*ana*]

thank you for posting, MulletProof. what a beautiful collection.

 

[afterrhours]

He really consistently makes such beautiful clothes

 

[Scott]

our residential marras-maven....thank you my dear

it looks glorious. that last image,particularly,is incredibly striking....almost shiver-worthy.

 

[MulletProof]

You're welcome, guys.
It's even better up close, especially those pleats. I can't wait till pics of the finale show up.. it always has such a great narrative.




[style.it]

 

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[starblood]

Antonio Marras is as talented as ever.

 

[mackos]

Another beautiful and charming collection from Antonio. Adore it all

I can only imagine how wonderful would the video from this show look like!

 

[thejarc]

I can't stress this enough. He is so underrated! I rarely read an article about him or see his clothes in editorials where they deserve to be!
This is wonderful, charming and very detailed.

 

[FakeFlower]

Very beautifully made

 

[mdankwah]

This man is without a doubt the most underrated and unheralded designer working today. His collections are always so beautiful season after season.

 

[mariska]

love this collection. Usually his aesthetic is too overembellished for my taste, but here he is a bit pared down, simpler and the result is really desirable!
i'm in love with the sailor-skirt-sailor-blouse outfit!

 

[sloosen]

such beautiful clothing and was such a beautiful show to watch! One of the best so far i think

 

[mikeijames]

This man is without a doubt the most underrated and unheralded designer working today. His collections are always so beautiful season after season.

i agree and consistently so. for that reason, if someone like antonio marras champions black in the upcoming season, it's more than a trend, it's unavoidable. while some of the prints here look too on the nose in an italian way, there's just something so precise about this collection that any woman would be lucky to have one of these pieces that look as good today as they will in twenty years.

 

[Inaya]

oh! just gorgeous... like always. the textiles and details are beautiful. thank you MP for all of the images