Antonio Marras: "This is what we should see more of in Milan," said Michael Fink, fashion director of Saks Fifth Avenue, walking out of the Antonio Marras show.
How true. Marras isn't obsessed with commercial clout or trend mania. But he usually weaves his collection around a theme. And, from the music-score invitation, white curtains and wood-plank catwalk, it was clear that ballet was twirling around in his head. But there wasn't a tutu-ed girl in sight. Instead, he exercised his more-is-more vision with bias cuts, layers, embroideries, ruching, ribbons and ruffles. All worked to the hilt.
Side-wrapped taffeta skirts flounced from beneath see-through tops, ruffles tumbled down the front of blouses and intricate embroidery showered almost every garment. Tossed over the shoulders were jackets that were either very boxy or teeny. As the sound track played the score from "Swan Lake," out came a group of black chinoiserie dresses — gossamer numbers with jet beading and side-wrapped taffeta skirts under shrunken jackets — the kind of clothes that should keep fashionistas on their toes.