Archive : Vogue Paris under Carine Roitfeld (February 2001 to March 2011)

Vogue Paris April 2001
"In Love"
Model: Frankie Rayder
Photographer: Terry Richardson
Stylist: Emmanuelle Alt
Hair: Stéphane Lancien
Makeup: Ellis Faas





asylums.insanejournal.com (originally scanned by Mojopin)
 
Vogue Paris August 2004

China Charm
Photographer: Craig McDean
Styling: Carine Roitfeld
Model: Gemma Ward



Scanned by MODA
 
Delighted to see new posts on this brilliant thread.

It seems to be commonly agreed that VP was "better" under CR.

Is it possible to define why ?

More creativity? Sexier? Less celebrity?
 
Is it possible to define why ?

More creativity? Sexier? Less celebrity?
I think sexier. For sure. And I would go so far as to say that the sex appeal we see here was definitely a part of a larger conversation in fashion to deal with and address adult sexuality. Which is to say - it wasn't just limited to p*rno chic and sl*tty Versace dresses. It was more about a grown up attitude and confidence...which I think most would agree is really sexy. It's sexy to see in magazines, it's sexy to see on the runways, and it's definitely sexy in real life.

Now fashion is very much about infantalizing it's subjects. And oftentimes the subjects themselves actually are that young! Models are so young and so young looking now. The inexperience shows on their faces and in the pictures. And when fashion does decide to do sexy now, its oftentimes, in my eyes, a clichéd or cartoon version of what sexy is...and ends up stilted and lacking any kind of real pulse.

I think Carine was very good at capturing in her magazine the kind of sex appeal that comes from within...whether in a state of complete undress or dressed to the nines in Couture.

I'm not totally sure why fashion seems unwilling to embrace that kind of sex appeal again? Maybe it's too confrontation for our times?
 
^ I'd pretty much agree with everything that you said, dior.

To elaborate though, I think what made Carine's approach to sexy so alluring to people at Vogue Paris -- in fact, what has ALWAYS made Carine's approach to sexy so alluring to people -- is that her approach to sexiness and sex appeal and sensuality really isn't easy to pin down, not that people don't try. It'd be very easy to take a cursory glance at what Carine does, let's say her signature work, lump it all together as simply that sort of icy/aggressive, glammed up, kink-lite thing and be done with it. But when you look at her body of work, sex, eroticism, sensuality, all of that takes on so many different forms. At it's core it always maintains that Carine quality of seeming not to try very hard though, that naturalness, but it's also very multilayered. For every model who conveys sexiness because she's half naked and writhing around or wielding a stiletto, there's another model who conveys sexiness because of the way she's leaning against a wall, or parting her lips, or holding her cigarette, or avoiding the camera's gaze by hiding behind her hair. It takes on so many different forms, but it's never, ever, anything less than confident.

To me she really does occupy a unique spot astride the line that divides the sort of "masculine" view of what makes a woman sexy, that whole male gaze thing that often focuses on the overt gesture to get the point across, and a more "feminine" view of what makes a woman sexy, which for the sake of keeping it succinct I'd describe as being more sensual and subtextual. I think Carine, especially these days when what she has to say and how she views sexuality is immediately deemed irrelevant, is often given less credit than she probably deserves for that impressive balancing act. It's probably because she made it, and continues to make it, look so easy.
 
Vogue Paris March 2007 : Natasha Poly by Inez & Vinoodh


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Soleil de Minuit
Photographer: Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin
Stylist: Emmanuelle Alt
Models: Natasha Poly & Freja Beha Erichsen



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Vogue Paris September 2007

Chic en Seine
Photographer: Terry Richardson
Stylist: Emmanuelle Alt
Model: Raquel Zimmermann

*One shot is missing.


Scanned by Pichichi
 
Vogue Paris October 2006 : Natalia Vodianova by Mario Testino


blog.naver.com

Poupees Russes
Photography: Mario Testino
Styling: Carine Roitfeld
Models: Natasha Poly, Sasha Pivovarova, Snejana Onopka, Vlada Roslyakova, Tanya Dziahileva & Anna Mariya Urazhevskay



mariotestino .com
 
Vogue Paris March 2008

Eau de Rose
Photography: Inez Van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin
Styling: Emmanuelle Alt
Hair: Luigi Murenu
Make-up: Tom Pecheux
Model: Sasha Pivovarova



Scanned by Berlinrocks
 
Vogue Paris March 2008

Romance Gothique
Photography: Craig McDean
Styling: Carine Roitfeld
Models: Sasha Pivovarova & Gemma Ward




swiftunicorn.blogspot.com
 
Vogue Paris May 2010

Erotica
Photography: Steven Klein
Styling: Carine Roitfeld
Hair: Paul Hanlon
Make-up: Stephane Marais
Manicure: Megumi Yamamoto
Model: Lily Donaldson



Scanned by Harumi
 
Vogue Paris June/July 2007

Classe Affaire

Photographer: Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin
Model: Natasha Poly




blog.naver.com
 
Delighted to see new posts on this brilliant thread.

It seems to be commonly agreed that VP was "better" under CR.

Is it possible to define why ?

More creativity? Sexier? Less celebrity?

IMO, VP under CR was "better" because it bring back something that people needed at the time: fashion & style, allure and exclusivity.

We sometimes forget it but it was maybe the first time ever that VP had a stylist as an EIC instead of a proper journalist.
VP under JJB wa great but much more journalistic and about an american vision of french fashion. It wasn't really a magazine of style. It was like a french version of US VOGUE with most of the time, head-to-toe looks.

Carine had the ultimate powerhouse team with her. She was the most in-demand stylist in the world and she had the best team ever.
When you think about all the brands Carine, Emmanuelle and MAS were involved with between 2001 & 2011, it's quite astonishing.
Those girls knows how to create an impactful image. It wasn't about market-research and everything. It felt genuine.

They managed to create a real mood and a "club" people wished to be part of. In a way, VP was a bit like Elle and 20 ans.
It was a guide of every fashion aficionado. The girls in the magazine looked like an extansion of the girls who made the magazine.
Suddenly, brands that "fashion lovers" liked a lot started appear regulary in the magazine: Helmut Lang, Balenciaga, Alaia, CDG, Yamamoto, Colonna...etc.
The celebrities they choosed were very chic (Marceau, Deneuve, Gainsbourg, Coppola) and sometimes they were subversive (Hilton, Andre J).

When you looked at their social pages, it wasn't about celebrities. It was about socialites, fashion personalities and designers.

It was just the right magazine, at the right time. Carine started at VP during a very interesting and crucial point for fashion, like Anna & Franca a decade before. It was an iconic era and VP was just the perfect "mainstream" magazine of that era.

Emmanuelle is great at her job but the fashion industry is kinda stuck so no magazine can be inspired by that energy.
We don't have an Hedi Slimane doing a revolution in menswear, American & english designers taking over french fashion houses is almost a non-event now.

Today, no EIC can have the power to be the EIC of a major magazine and at the same time the stylist of many fashion brands.
 
You're correct, and it makes me quite sad to think about the industry now compared to the industry then. My eyes are actually filled with tears
 
Vogue Paris October 2006
"Tsarines"
Models: Natasha Poly, Tanya Dziahileva, Sasha Pivovarova, Vlada Roslyakova, Anna-Mariya Urajevskaya & Snejana Onopka
Photographer: Mario Testino
Stylist: Carine Roitfeld
Hair: Marc Lopez
Makeup: Peter Philips
Manicure: Lorraine Griffin




noirfacade.livejournal.com
 
Vogue Paris October 2006
"Fur Play"
Model: Raquel Zimmermann
Photographers: Inez & Vinoodh
Stylist: Emmanuelle Alt
Hair: Christiaan
Makeup: Peter Philips
Manicure: Brenda Abrial





asylums.insanejournal.com/vivelechic (originally scanned by MODA)
 
Vogue Paris August 2007

L'icone

Photographer: Mario Testino
Stylist: Carine Roitfeld
Model: Snejana Onopka



mariotestino. com
 
Vogue Paris October 2007

La Couture est dans le Pré
Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier
Fashion Editor: Carine Roitfeld
Model: Natasha Poly

*Two shots are smaller. I couldn't find the original scan.



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Vogue Paris October 2007

Intimes Sensations

Photographer: Paolo Roversi
Styling: Anastasia Barbieri
Model: Magdalena Frackowiak




Scanned by Diorette
 

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