Thank you burbuja and everyone for this goldmine-- that I must admit, I’ve let slipped in my mind… And thank you Lola, dior and Spike for your thoughts that remain defiant and demanding in these uninspired and such bland fashion times.
When I look at what Bruce, both Marios and even Mert & Marcus and Terry were so capable of producing just a decade ago, I can easily forgive their lazy offences to high fashion these days. Once upon a time, I loved loved loved Juergen’s work— particularly his still influential work for Helmut Lang. I can’t believe how hollow, how soulless and just lazy his output is these days. And when you factor in the supposed leaders these days— Jamie Hawkesworth, Harley Weir and Collier Schorr etc, I can’t help but cringe at how amateur their output is in general: It reminds me so much of that brand of unpolished, creatively-limited and just depressing aesthetic I saw around me in school. I get that’s the kind of “rawness” kids relate to these days. It’s so accessible, so DIY, so fanzine-quality that there’s not much there to aspire to, not much to want to sharpen your craft so you can be better than what you are today— like these images of Carine’s Vogue: The composition, the lighting, the texture, the richness, the layered nuances, the smoulder… that stuff of high fashion dreams. Unlike the bulk of these days’ of images that look like they’re churned out from a closet and rushed to IG.
