Ava Gardner #1 | Page 100 | the Fashion Spot

Ava Gardner #1

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Leading German fashion house Escada introduces its Spring/Summer 2009 "The Explorer" and the Spring/Summer 2009 Sport collections. Inspired by a trip from Africa to Asia, The Explorer collection saw Escada woman adapts colours, details, prints, shapes and jewellery to suit a strong personal style; while the Sport collection reflects playful, darling and young at heart women with an adventurous spirit who love freedom.
For The Explorer, the silhouette is elegant and modern - pencil skirts, cropped pants and summer dresses in rich jewelled tones. The tailored jackets offer the 50s glamour, as in the movie Mogambo with Grace Kelly and Ava Gardner.
Dresses are the key this season, whether in a signature print or asymmetrically draped which help softening the otherwise geometric offer. Colours are intense in their mixtures such as salmon, purple orchid and lagoon. Fine detailing is prevalent throughout with luxurious embroideries, sculptural folds and circular smocking.
Meanwhile, Escada S/S09 Sport collection was inspired by modern women who are young at heart, dynamic with an inner strength of security. Her day is like an imaginary Paris/Dakar rally, affronting and conquering each challenge but with a freedom of spirit that is playful and daring at the same time. She is like a contemporary Joan of Arc who wears her motorcycle jacket as if it were a suit of armour.
The collection features modern, updated versions of the motorbike jackets in stretch cottons, white denim, or in supple leathers. The sultan pant comes in cotton/nylon satin stretch and silk crepe de chine. Prints are bold florals, soft pastel florals or graphic camouflage. Double T is in black and white or fluorescent. Knitwear is soft, fluid and slightly loose-fitting.
 
Food for Thought

For The Explorer, the silhouette is elegant and modern - pencil skirts, cropped pants and summer dresses in rich jewelled tones. The tailored jackets offer the 50s glamour, as in the movie Mogambo with Grace Kelly and Ava Gardner.
Dresses are the key this season, whether in a signature print or asymmetrically draped which help softening the otherwise geometric offer. Colours are intense in their mixtures such as salmon, purple orchid and lagoon. Fine detailing is prevalent throughout with luxurious embroideries, sculptural folds and circular smocking.
Meanwhile, Escada S/S09 Sport collection was inspired by modern women who are young at heart, dynamic with an inner strength of security. Her day is like an imaginary Paris/Dakar rally, affronting and conquering each challenge but with a freedom of spirit that is playful and daring at the same time. She is like a contemporary Joan of Arc who wears her motorcycle jacket as if it were a suit of armour.
The collection features modern, updated versions of the motorbike jackets in stretch cottons, white denim, or in supple leathers. The sultan pant comes in cotton/nylon satin stretch and silk crepe de chine. Prints are bold florals, soft pastel florals or graphic camouflage. Double T is in black and white or fluorescent. Knitwear is soft, fluid and slightly loose-fitting.
 
Diamonds Net

One-of-a-kind…unique…the adjectives that describe antique jewelry just as easily fill the bill when discussing Hollywood’s reigning stars. So it’s no wonder that when these VIP celebrities take to the red carpet, they often choose to deck themselves out in vintage jewelry. Neil Lane, the Beverly Hills jeweler whose clientele includes many of Hollywood’s famous, sums up the appeal: “Wearing vintage has many pluses to it. You know it’s unique, it’s gorgeous and rare, it’s kind of elevating.”

“Vintage jewelry is popular today,” points out Marion Fasel, jewelry historian and co-author with Penny Proddow and Debra Healy of Hollywood Jewels: Movies, Jewelry, Stars, “as it has been for over a decade. It’s really strong on the red carpet because it gives celebrities a one-of-a-kind look that other people won’t have.

And then they enjoy it for the reasons we all enjoy vintage jewelry, because it’s just so beautiful and they can choose from so many styles, from Art Deco to something from the 1940s or a Victorian piece or Edwardian.” Vintage gems offer bling that’s not so “in your face,” explains Fasel. “I think people who prefer estate jewelry are looking for something that is more of an artistic statement.”

Hollywood has always had a love affair with everything vintage, agrees Larry Platt, co-owner with his sister Natasha Tsimmerman of Platt Boutique Jewelry in Los Angeles. Their jewelry has graced celebrities such as Jada Pinkett-Smith, Katie Holmes Cruise and Rihanna. “The idea of owning or wearing a piece of jewelry that you won’t see on anyone else is the key element. It all comes down to rarity and history, and the celebrities love playing on the idea of old Hollywood glam,” says Platt. It’s also, says Tsimmerman, a matter of craftsmanship, the way the pieces are made and the designs that provide that special something.

Once you’re introduced to vintage jewelry, says Rebecca Selva, public relations manager for jeweler Fred Leighton, whose extensive collection of antique and estate jewelry has adorned many celebrities, “you become enamored with it. There is such a diversity of looks to discover. Most of the pieces we sell are one-of-a-kinds. And that, in itself, is a very attractive thing, and the fact that it has history.”

It’s the range of styles, says Lane, that makes antique jewelry work so well with contemporary fashions. “Today, there are multitudes of designers on the red carpet and they each have a different point of view. And a lot of their designs are influenced by the Edwardian period, by the Retro period, the Hollywood glamour period, the twenties. So it’s only natural to have period jewels to complement those looks.”


Timely Appeal
The current state of the economy is also a factor in what bling, and how much, is worn. Says Fasel, “I think we’re almost in an interim period, where it seems that Hollywood can’t quite decide. Some are going for all-out glamour, doing for the public what celebrities did in the 1930s, where they really ‘put on the Ritz’ as a form of escapism for the rest of us, wearing something very beautiful while the country was in an economic crisis. But others are toning it down a bit. So I don’t think we’ve quite come to see what trends we’re going to have going forward.”

Platt agrees that “the state of the economy will definitely have an effect on what we will be seeing on the red carpet. ‘Less is more’ will definitely be the motto. I think one strong diamond necklace from the Victorian or Deco period or a strong pair of earrings paired with a great bracelet will be enough. Vintage gold jewelry in bold shapes and colors will remain a hot trend. It adds an element of fun and keeps things toned down.”


Red-carpet trends
“There are always going to be the showstoppers, the big vintage diamond necklace,” Lane says. And, he adds, one thing that’s “always a standard” is wearing some sparkle by your ear. “Whether it’s short, long or dangling earrings, you always need diamonds; you need sparkle by your face. There’s no outfit that’s complete without it.”

In terms of specific red-carpet trends, Tsimmerman cites wearing lots of Art Deco bracelets, “piled up.” And, she adds, “Lately, we’ve seen a return of unusual cuffs and sixties and seventies jewelry, big, bold unique pieces.”

“The Deco period has always been a favorite of Hollywood A-listers and I don’t see that trend disappearing anytime soon,” concurs Platt. “The bold geometric shapes and modern look of many Deco pieces pair so well with the dresses being created by today’s top designers. The platinum and diamond material used for most Art Deco jewelry is ideal for red-carpet glitz.”
Platt also cites vintage yellow gold jewelry as “one of the hottest trends that has definitely come back into vogue. Pieces from the Retro 1940s to the bold ’70s have made it onto countless red carpets. Oversized cuffs accented with diamonds and colored stones, big door-knocker style earrings and large cocktail rings set with diamonds and semiprecious stones have added an element of color and fun.”

Adds Selva, “You can expect a statement piece, you can expect things to be combined in very interesting ways.” One example she says Fred Leighton has been at the forefront with is jewels worn in the hair, such as the diamond tiara Scarlett Johansson wore at the 2005 Oscars or a diamond headband worn by Natalie Portman.

Another trend, Selva points out, “popular for awhile now,” is mixing periods, such as nineteenth-century and 1940s jewels. “It’s all about the shapes and the looks speaking to one another and working beautifully. They don’t become 1920s ladies walking down the carpet; they’re modern women who have chosen a beautiful Art Deco bracelet but they might be wearing a contemporary earring. So they’re mixing things up.”

There is an interest in wearing a statement piece rather than matching earrings, necklace, bracelet, says Selva, “whether it’s a necklace or a phenomenal bracelet that has a story or a beautiful brooch. At this year’s Screen Actors Guild (SAG) Awards, Kyra Sedgwick wore a vintage Chanel gown with our long, beautiful, nineteenth-century amethyst and diamond necklace. It made quite an impact. It was perfect and it looked fresh.”

“People are trying to emulate Marilyn Monroe, Ava Gardner — they’re trying to emulate the great moments in Hollywood,” says Lane. “You have to go back to go forward.”
 
Halfstep
Femme fatales have a long movie history, but these days, the femme fatale of them all has moved from playing one on the screen to doing it in real life: that would be Angelina Jolie, who is as femme and fatale as they come, only in the 21st century she dropped the cigarettes and late nights for six kids and a lot of third world road trips.
Tough to imagine Ava Gardner traipsing through a Sudanese refugee camp, isn't it? She was more likely to traipse through a Vegas banquette if she had any inkling that Frank was up to no good.
The deep, dark secret about the femme fatale is that most of her fatale was located in her voice. Think Kathleen Turner, in Body Heat. Anne Bancroft in The Graduate (a comic femme, granted). Think Lauren Bacall, in all those movies she did with Bogie. There's just something about a scratchy, deep, knowing voice that used to make a guy chuck a sweetheart like Jen Aniston to the curb and set off into the hot, dusty, dirty, Darfur night with Angelina. Who knew you were headed for the orphanage?
 
Post 1997 is certainly "Food for Thought". What woman wouldn't inspire to look like Ava once in their lifetime?
 
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