The Telegraph
California: Palm Springs is my kind of town
A year after his death, Frank Sinatra lives on - everywhere - in California's celebrity playground of Palm Springs. Geoff Robert reports
Last Updated: 11:29AM GMT 05 Feb 2001
THE Fifties. Ava Gardner was diving naked into Frank Sinatra's swimming pool in Palm Springs and I was growing up in the wilds of Tyrone. Frank was having martinis with Carmen Miranda and I was drinking NHS powdered milk. He was leaving Lauren Bacall and I was leaving for school.
The Fifties. When the American dream was pure and Americans were perfecting the art of endless childhood that they continue to this day: the instant friendships, the artless lack of irony, the wearing of bright clothes well into senility. The corollary of that, of course, is arrogance and selfishness, unthinking generosity, hedonism and the inability to defer a pleasure if it can be had right this minute.
Sinatra was the epitome of all of those and Palm Springs was where he perfected them. As a result, the ghost of Sinatra is everywhere in this Californian town.
You go into a bar and his voice is sailing through the air without a breath. You talk to a man in that bar and discover that he was Sinatra's dentist. You order a cocktail and Sinatra is in the glass, in the effortless cool of late afternoon beneath the palms. You talk to a man outside and Sinatra paid his father's medical bills. You check into a hotel and the owner says of course Sinatra had a temper: he was short and Italian, so what did you expect?
A town of 45,000 souls, 8,000 of them millionaires, Palm Springs has had many lives. A thousand years ago, it was the home of the Cahuilla Indians, who retreated to the nearby canyons in the heat of the summer. In the Thirties, it became Hollywood's hideaway, and from the Forties to the Sixties everyone from Elvis to Liberace stalked the streets and gathered for cocktails in the tangerine dusk, which for many of them was not long after breakfast.
In the Seventies, it became a retirement town in which the average age and temperature were both about 88. In the Eighties, hordes of libidinous teenagers descended on it every spring break, until Mayor Sonny Bono banned them. In the Nineties, the gap left by the students was plugged by gay tourists, who stay in luxury private resorts where the rooms, naturally, start at standard queen size.
Appropriately enough, I arrived in this perpetual Mecca of cool at the cocktail hour, falling from a lilac sky to a desert the colour of powdered brick. I picked up my convertible at the airport and pressed a button by the seat. The hood tilted back and the heat of the night filled my bones. I pressed another button and the music from the radio poured into my veins like honey. It was Sinatra, singing Lady Luck.
"Sinatra," said the announcer, when the song had finished. "All this week, in the valley he loved so well, we will be making sure that his flame burns forever."
By the pool, a waitress was waiting with a gin martini. The darkness crept around, draping me with the scents of bougainvillaea, jasmine and orange blossom. I could not sleep and read a novel late into the night.
At breakfast, I read that nine of the top 10 in the bestseller list of the Los Angeles Times were self-help books. The 10th was the restaurant guide to Southern California.
All day long, I walked the streets looking for the ghost of Sinatra and finding him everywhere and nowhere. At five, I looked at my watch and realised it was the cocktail hour again and that I had a date at Sorrentino's, Sinatra's favourite restaurant in Palm Springs. In the Fifties, when the Guadalajara Boys played mariachi here, there were seatbelts on the bar stools and the men bought dolls from the barman and gave them to the hooker they wanted.
This evening, Sinatra was the background music, as it would never have been in his day. Anywhere he went, he insisted that his songs were never played.
There was even a Steak Sinatra on the menu, still served just the way he liked it, with mushrooms and bell peppers. But since Sinatra's idea of good food was pork and beans out of a tin, I gave it a miss and had sand dabs with lemon and a glass of Chablis.
Hermann, the waiter, had served Sinatra here for three decades, not to mention every star in Hollywood and several presidents, and Sinatra had been persistently generous to him and his children in return. "My best customer? Mr Sinatra. He was always pleasant and helpful. My worst customer? Mr Sinatra when he didn't get exactly three coffee beans for luck in his after-dinner sambuca or a bottle of Château Lafite '56."
The next morning, I woke before dawn and went for a swim in the heated outdoor pool. In the duck-egg light, mist wraiths ghosted on the surface of the water and the tiny black birds known as Phaino Pepla sang with their soft, insubstantial call.
It was five in the morning. At six, I was to meet a pilot in a hotel lobby out in the desert and we were to go flying in his balloon over the warming sands to the mountains where snow still lay in the curves below the peaks.
Twice before in my life, I had risen at five for a balloon flight, only to find when I arrived at the take-off site that the flight had been cancelled owing to high winds. But this morning was as still and quiet as a nun. I drove for an hour, with the hood down and Sinatra on the radio, to the hotel.
In the lobby, there was no sign of a balloon pilot.
"Is this where I'm supposed to be?" I asked the night porter, a large man with a small way about him.
"Balloon flight's been cancelled due to high winds," he said.
Unable to get into the air, I drove back into town and spent a vicarious couple of hours in the Palm Springs Air Museum amid assorted Thunderbolts, Bearcats, Corsairs and Spitfires, and noting with British disdain that Mustangs were fitted with air-conditioning. ("Base, I gotta problem. The air con's busted and my shades are misting up!")
Outside the window, the midday heat was shimmering off the runway where Sinatra used to land with the rest of the Rat Pack in his private plane, then walk straight to a waiting helicopter to whisk them up to Villa Maggio, the mountain retreat he built in 1968 and named after the Oscar-winning role in From Here to Eternity that relaunched his career.
A modest log cabin with nine bedrooms, 13 bathrooms, two saunas, pool, spa, tennis court, petrol station, heliport and separate guesthouse, this has been beautifully restored by a tax-fraud lawyer and his wife. They moved to Palm Springs from San Diego ("We didn't like the people. You say hello and they're stuck for an answer"), bought this as a weekend home and are now selling it for $2 million.
The house is full of the flotsam of fame. I was leaning on Al Capone's old table when a ****su came snuffling by my ankles. "That's Harold Robbins's old dog," said the lawyer's wife. "We got her when he died a year ago."
Sinatra spent his early years in Palm Springs, though, in Twin Palms, a house down in the valley that he built in 1947. A perfect example of mid-century modernism, it has now been immaculately restored by a former landscape gardener, Marc Sanders, who only discovered its history when he dug up some old planning permits.
In the heat of the afternoon, we padded through the house, followed by Marc's miniature terrier - what is it with rich people and small dogs?
Here was the pool into which a drunken Ava Gardner dived naked in front of Sinatra's party guests. Here was the room where Garbo stayed, arriving in midsummer in a heavy coat and scarf and only emerging to swim topless in the pool, clad in just a pair of baggy khaki men's shorts.
These icons passed before my unblinking eyes. But something was wrong: I had lost interest in the past, in history, in all that old stuff. I was turning into a Californian.
I said goodbye to Marc and went for a drive in the convertible, the wind whipping in my hair and Sinatra on the radio, as he would be all week. I checked in the mirror. I was tanned. I filled up the tank, drank a bottle of low-sodium energy supplement and ate a diet loganberry yogurt, and then went to a car dealership to look at some pre-enjoyed low-mileage Rolls-Royces. I felt better. On the way back to the hotel, I was overtaken by two teenagers in a vintage Jaguar and a bald pensioner in a red Corvette.
That night I went out to the old Plaza Theatre to see the Fabulous Palm Springs Follies, a bunch of retired showgirls and boys between the ages of 54 and 86 who have put their dancing shoes and their singing hats back on for a last hoof through the twilight years of vaudeville.
It might sound like finding out your granny's become a kiss-o-gram, but it was brilliant and by the end of the evening I had fallen in love with not one but several of the dancers. Ah, if only I were an older man.
The next day, I went to the Joshua Tree national park, 800,000 acres of desert, rocks, cacti and the strange trees so named because the Mormons who travelled west through here in the 1850s thought they looked like the prophet showing them the way to the promised land. If they were right, Joshua was a ra-ra girl, eternally holding aloft several handfuls of pompoms.
Late in the afternoon, I drove over to Desert Memorial Park, the final resting place of Palm Springs' rich and famous, to see Sinatra's grave. It is just a simple plaque set in the grass, bearing the inscription: "The Best Is Yet to Come, Francis Albert Sinatra, 1915-1998, Beloved Husband and Father."
His several wives, especially Nancy, would probably have something to say about the beloved husband bit, but after reading so much about him I felt a shiver when standing by the grave where he finally sleeps with all the stars of Palm Springs. Much as he did in life, really.
That night I went to see Sinatra: My Way, the tribute show by Frankie Randall, a friend and fan of Sinatra's for 38 years, in which Russ Loniello is a better Dean Martin than Dean Martin ever was, Louie Velez is a splendidly dreadful Sammy Davis Jnr and Randall . . . well, good he is, Sinatra he ain't, as he would admit himself.
I sank into my seat and realised the back of my neck was sunburnt. I had been in his homes, I had stood on his grave and now here I was listening to his music live on stage in his town. In the darkness, I drifted away.
In the dream, Frank was cooking pasta in the kitchen, Dean Martin was lying drunk on the sofa, Ava Gardner was swimming naked in the pool and Greta Garbo was sitting on the floor in the corner, wearing an overcoat. I looked at Garbo and her eyes closed and with them the past.
Next morning, I drove to the aiport. On the radio, the Sinatra week had finished and they were playing Smooth Operator by Sade. I climbed into an airplane and rose, high above the palms, into the endless curve of a Sinatra-less future.
- Geoff Hill flew from Belfast to London with British Midland (0345 554554) - from £67 return - and from London to Palm Springs with United Airlines. United Vacations (020 81313 0999) offers fly-drive holidays to Palm Springs from £529 per person in June, including scheduled flights and a week's car hire. Fly-drives to Los Angeles in June start at £496 per person. From LA to Palm Springs by road is about 114 miles. His hire car was provided by Alamo (0990 994000), which has 130 agencies in North America renting everything from compacts to convertibles. He stayed at Casa Cody (00 1 760 320 9346), a Spanish-style inn near the old heart of Palm Springs; doubles from £44 in June, including a great breakfast by the pool. He also stayed at Howard Johnson's (00 1 760 320 2700) at 701 East Palm Canyon Drive, a Fifties motor lodge; doubles from £25.