Sarah Burton - Designer, Creative Director of Givenchy | Page 32 | the Fashion Spot

Sarah Burton - Designer, Creative Director of Givenchy

It would be so nice if Sarah had her own label. Then she wouldn’t have to suffer dumb logos, stupid bags, silly footwear, and corporate presentations and campaigns pandering to social. This W shoot is far far far more impactful than any of the official shows and campaigns from the brand.


W Magazine Volume 6 2025
"Strength and Sensibility"
Photographer: Craig McDean
Stylist: Camilla Nickerson
Feature editor: William Middleton
Stars: Sarah Burton, Kaia Gerber

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It would be so nice if Sarah had her own label. Then she wouldn’t have to suffer dumb logos, stupid bags, silly footwear, and corporate presentations and campaigns pandering to social. This W shoot is far far far more impactful than any of the official shows and campaigns from the brand.


W Magazine Volume 6 2025
"Strength and Sensibility"
Photographer: Craig McDean
Stylist: Camilla Nickerson
Feature editor: William Middleton
Stars: Sarah Burton, Kaia Gerber

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Judging by your comment, maybe the issue is not Givenchy the label but simply that you don’t like her vision…
Clearly she is the one who chose Collier Schorr lol.

But indeed, this is far more superior than what she is trying to do. Hopefully, she will switch her photographer.
 
It’s more fault with Ferdinando, the art director. I think it is one year contract, hope she switches the art director next season.
 
Her tenure is a disaster so far, honestly worse than anything Kering has ever done.
- RTW is a disaster all round. The tailoring is sloppy and the vision is unfocused. They are trying to push those jacket minidresses but it ain't working.
- Accessories are a non event. The new bag is nowhere to be seen. The best sellers are still Shark Lock boots and revamped Antigonas.
- PR is another disaster but that's not surprising since they are under Benjamin Cercio (who already ruined Gucci).
- Menswear is ridicolous, a bunch of logo stuff + Burton's Mcqueen signature embroidery pieces at 3x the Mcqueen price.

There is no way she's gonna get her contract renewed. I dare anyone saying her tenure is better than MW.
 


This is giving me an uncomfortable amount of nakedness to wear in the open - Not that we haven't seen it normalize over the years by other designers and celebrities, but either way, I don't see neither the necessity, nor the desire to let the public see you bare in your knickers like that…
 
Her tenure is a disaster so far, honestly worse than anything Kering has ever done.
- RTW is a disaster all round. The tailoring is sloppy and the vision is unfocused. They are trying to push those jacket minidresses but it ain't working.
- Accessories are a non event. The new bag is nowhere to be seen. The best sellers are still Shark Lock boots and revamped Antigonas.
- PR is another disaster but that's not surprising since they are under Benjamin Cercio (who already ruined Gucci).
- Menswear is ridicolous, a bunch of logo stuff + Burton's Mcqueen signature embroidery pieces at 3x the Mcqueen price.

There is no way she's gonna get her contract renewed. I dare anyone saying her tenure is better than MW.
Her rtw alone is better than anything MW put out. Even if the tenure is a mess so far.

MW’s off-white/Tisci redux was nothing to write about.
 
Her tenure is a disaster so far, honestly worse than anything Kering has ever done.
- RTW is a disaster all round. The tailoring is sloppy and the vision is unfocused. They are trying to push those jacket minidresses but it ain't working.
- Accessories are a non event. The new bag is nowhere to be seen. The best sellers are still Shark Lock boots and revamped Antigonas.
- PR is another disaster but that's not surprising since they are under Benjamin Cercio (who already ruined Gucci).
- Menswear is ridicolous, a bunch of logo stuff + Burton's Mcqueen signature embroidery pieces at 3x the Mcqueen price.

There is no way she's gonna get her contract renewed. I dare anyone saying her tenure is better than MW.
We cannot also be the perpetrators of what we criticize.
Saying that her tenure is a disaster…
Have you went to the stores?
Is her tenure fully activated?

A bunch of Redcarpet looks and 3 collections can hardly tell us anything about her tenure.

It can inform us about her vision, which is something totally different.

We have yet to see her full involvement in menswear, in Couture and beauty, which are all the activities of Givenchy.


The real issue for me so far is that her vision is not strong enough. The products are good. The womenswear is solid. The menswear is weird because it still riding the wave of the predecessors in stores so she needs to put her vision on the runway. And it’s difficult to see her vision now infused in all activities.

When Collier Schorr is shooting your fashion campaigns, how could it work when you have to work on beauty.

The Redcarpet is almost irrelevant. Versace as a brand has always dominated the Redcarpet area but irl, it’s not driving a fashion conversation or making people run to the stores.

She is in danger because others were able to activate things faster which gives a better impression (Haider) but she can still turn things around. If things don’t move in 2026, renewing her contract would be challenging.
 
Her rtw alone is better than anything MW put out. Even if the tenure is a mess so far.

MW’s off-white/Tisci redux was nothing to write about.
both are just bad in different ways.... dislike both givenchy´s and just like MW flop in the making and i wont be stepping into the stores to be even more convinced time will tell like the cookie crumbles :)
 
It’s weird because I can’t say she is bad. Tbh, the bags are good, the RTW is good. It’s like what @reese06 said best than anything MW put out and I will add even Clare.
But something is not connecting yet…

Maybe the problem is Givenchy as a house.

Riccardo took time to settle too. It was a different era also but it’s weird. Is it because we don’t know what Givenchy should be about and so because there’s not a precise vision, it’s a bit difficult to appreciate?

When I compare for example with Haider’s Tom Ford. Haider has a strong vision, good clothes, good campaigns. It’s so precise that it has maybe allowed the conversation to not be focused on accessories. Still not it bag or shoes from his shows.
The conversation is solely about the clothes, which is great because it’s the business of Zegna but it is interesting. Even more considering how limited the distribution is so far.
 
It’s weird because I can’t say she is bad. Tbh, the bags are good, the RTW is good. It’s like what @reese06 said best than anything MW put out and I will add even Clare.
But something is not connecting yet…

Maybe the problem is Givenchy as a house.

Riccardo took time to settle too. It was a different era also but it’s weird. Is it because we don’t know what Givenchy should be about and so because there’s not a precise vision, it’s a bit difficult to appreciate?

When I compare for example with Haider’s Tom Ford. Haider has a strong vision, good clothes, good campaigns. It’s so precise that it has maybe allowed the conversation to not be focused on accessories. Still not it bag or shoes from his shows.
The conversation is solely about the clothes, which is great because it’s the business of Zegna but it is interesting. Even more considering how limited the distribution is so far.
Its starts and end with the creative director when it comes to reviving a brands vision in any way or style one wishes it to be a success.

Givenchy has soft codes but that's no excuse she been doing couture light as in sheer stuff and generally nothing new, it's just not enough and she was never a savvy commercial world building designer.

Tom Ford Fashion segment generated €314.5 million in revenue in 2024 was a milestone year for the brand, marking a significant 33.5% year-over-year increase for (Zegna Group), which owns the brand, with organic growth at -0.7% due to consolidation adjustments.
This growth was driven by strong performance in the Direct-to-Consumer (DTC) channel, especially in the US during Q4 2024
Lets see what Haider contribution is on top of this starting form 2025 Q4 the time his clothes touched the store floor.

Sarah like Claire and MW are all mid designers with no strong personal vision each might have plus point against each other but it's not enough to be a successful creative director its simple as that.
 
It’s weird because I can’t say she is bad. Tbh, the bags are good, the RTW is good. It’s like what @reese06 said best than anything MW put out and I will add even Clare.
But something is not connecting yet…

Maybe the problem is Givenchy as a house.

Riccardo took time to settle too. It was a different era also but it’s weird. Is it because we don’t know what Givenchy should be about and so because there’s not a precise vision, it’s a bit difficult to appreciate?

When I compare for example with Haider’s Tom Ford. Haider has a strong vision, good clothes, good campaigns. It’s so precise that it has maybe allowed the conversation to not be focused on accessories. Still not it bag or shoes from his shows.
The conversation is solely about the clothes, which is great because it’s the business of Zegna but it is interesting. Even more considering how limited the distribution is so far.

I think Haider's vision for Tom Ford is impactful because there's a conviction there that you don't need to cater to a wider demography of taste, which reflects in the product offering. It's one of the few brands at the moment where the image of the runway and the reality of what's sold on their website is relatively seamless.

A lot of brands today don't dare to fully commit to the vision of their creative directors and it reflects in the amount of brainless merch that just gets a sometimes more, sometimes less visible branding - So in the end, that connects to what I wrote in the other discussion.

Another thing I will add is that luxury brands are pushing their prices too steep upwards - It's a gamble I don't think will pay off in certain cases, most likely Sarah Burton's Givenchy.

When you consider that Givenchy only enjoyed one stable, long-lasting designer tenure since the exit of Hubert de Givenchy, I don't think it would be a wise choice to part with Sarah Burton quickly if it doesn't lead to an explosive growth. The product is good, better than her two predecessors but in such a difficult economic situation, I don't think Givenchy (much like Lanvin) can fit the same niche already occupied by houses with a far bigger prestige and establishment.
 
WWD January 5, 2026

Even the World’s Richest People Are Pulling Back on Luxury, Survey Shows​

Even as luxury brands intensify their focus on wealthy clients, there are signs of pullback on several fronts.

Twenty percent of affluent and high-net-worth individuals (HNWIs) intend to spend less on designer fashions over the next 12 months. The percentage of non-purchasers rises to 30 percent for leather goods, 32 percent for jewelry and 44 percent for watches, according to findings gathered in the third quarter of 2025 by research firm Altiant and interpreted by Paris-based luxury consultancy MAD.

“The shift from consumer goods to experiential luxury is confirmed,” MAD cofounder Jean Revis added in an interview.

The reasons behind changes in purchase habits differ by category, with mostly clients over age 40 retreating from designer fashions, and affluents shunning leather goods while HNWIs maintain a quite high frequency of purchase, Le Bansais said.

The implications? Fashion houses should capitalize on healthy appetite among 18- to 39-year-olds, and question how they can entice others back, while there’s clearly an issue of accessibility with leather goods, given steep price increases in the post-COVID luxury boom, she said.

Cosmetics, fragrance and jewelry categories remained broadly resilient, though a closer look at the numbers for jewelry reveals another polarization, with 40-plus males retreating, but women demonstrating a higher frequency of purchase.

Half of female HNWIs reported a median spend of more than $13,000 over the past year, according to the survey.

The data also pointed to North America as the most promising region for luxury firms with rich clients reporting the highest level of multiple purchases and the lowest level of non-purchases. Europe emerged as the most cautious region.

In jewelry, for example, only 29 percent of North American big spenders didn’t buy any in the past year, versus 43 percent in Asia and 52 percent in Europe. For designer fashions, only 16 percent of North American respondents didn’t purchase versus 33 percent for Europe.

Revis described a “moment of insecurity in the luxury industry,” and a hunger for insights into how its wealthiest clients behave from a statistical point of view.

The caution that emerged across the survey reflects a lack of confidence in the financial system, with 61 percent of respondents considering it somewhat or very unstable, and 30 percent expecting the stock market to perform worse over the next 12 months.

(Atliant’s pool of affluent and high-net-worth individuals are split equally between North America, Europe and Asia, with a median household income of $270,000 and median investable assets of $883,000.)

According to MAD’s interpretation of 2025 data, the downturn “seems to reinforce traditional views,” meaning wealthy consumers — asked which words represent themselves when it comes to wealth — prefer “tradition” over “modern” — and “local” is gaining ground over “international.”

Le Bensais noted there are still things to cheer about. “The number of people who purchased either multiple or single is always higher than the number of people who did not purchase, which means the segment overall is quite penetrated, which is a good thing,” she said.

Meanwhile, the study revealed some surprising sentiments about sustainable luxury, with only 56 percent of affluents and HNWIs considering it important, but 74 percent will pay more for sustainable luxury products.

Le Bansais said one possible explanation is that wealthy consumers are OK “to pay more to make sure that they have safe products for themselves,” especially for categories like beauty.
 
I just wanna see her givenchy couture show and menswear show before i write her whole tenure off. Those are her strengths but I guess she is not allowed to activate them yet.

Is givenchy giving her enough time to write new Givenchy womenswear codes and understand that it will be a slow process or is she gonna be treated like new designers where shes given only 3-4 years to get the hype or get sacked.
 
I just wanna see her givenchy couture show and menswear show before i write her whole tenure off. Those are her strengths but I guess she is not allowed to activate them yet.

Is givenchy giving her enough time to write new Givenchy womenswear codes and understand that it will be a slow process or is she gonna be treated like new designers where shes given only 3-4 years to get the hype or get sacked.
You will wait.
She/Givenchy isn't on the January Couture calendar nor the menswear calendar, if we are not writing her off yet, LVMH is certainly writing Givenchy off.
 
I find Sarah Burton completely skilled. but it's just not strong as a directional fashion story. In order to accommodate her they should reposition Givency and work from couture downwards. One glance at the website really surfaces everything that's wrong, the offer is banal, lacking in color and shape. Directional items that are there feel so angry and overworked, those inverted jackets, those hideous ankle boots with that tacky white logo! and all those reworks on the biker jacket read as butch. I saw one passable tuxedo jacket.
she will probably get more time, due to the sheer number of switches already going on, I dont think anyone wants destabilise more now. maybe a stylist will help her? and honestly if not Sarah, who will turn this brand into something? I can't see anyone doing it now.
 
I find Sarah Burton completely skilled. but it's just not strong as a directional fashion story. In order to accommodate her they should reposition Givency and work from couture downwards. One glance at the website really surfaces everything that's wrong, the offer is banal, lacking in color and shape. Directional items that are there feel so angry and overworked, those inverted jackets, those hideous ankle boots with that tacky white logo! and all those reworks on the biker jacket read as butch. I saw one passable tuxedo jacket.
she will probably get more time, due to the sheer number of switches already going on, I dont think anyone wants destabilise more now. maybe a stylist will help her? and honestly if not Sarah, who will turn this brand into something? I can't see anyone doing it now.
This.
There is no way one could defend Sarah's tenure. MW did Tisci grunge redux for only half of his tenure (during pandemic) and you still bash him after he released few bestsellers as the Vou You bag and couple iterations of the Shark Lock and the Antigona.
You currently browse the website and you see inverted jackets, jackets dresses and leather biker bombers / jackets iterations everywhere, then you browse the accessory section and you are overwhelmed by logo ankle boots, logo loafers and logo ballet flats. Everything is black and white and next season it's not gonna get better with that atrocious collection featuring yet again jackets dresses. It's clear this is another flop from Delphine and it looks like LVMH execs couldn't care less. On top of that, the prices are obnoxiously high and they started outsourcing productions of some items to low level wage countries such as Portugal to cut corners in production costs.
LOL at people still hoping for a Couture revival under Sarah, it's done for good.
 
like Couture is the barometer of excellence in 2026 when both haute couture and high fashion rtw look and offer the same freedom of expression in a fashion show format.

i don't need to see girls that can barely walk in dresses that took 340000 hours to put together when the vision of the creative director is not even visible in the most basic rtw collections nor ad campaigns or fashion shows.

just call a spade a spade!
 

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