Azzaro Haute Couture S/S 2021 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[GERGIN]

Can we just get look book styled images already? How can I possibly appreciate Olivier's craftmanship with this obstructive photography!?!

 

[THD96]

Very Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane no?

 

[susseinmcswanny]

For real I him but I really really really want to see a look book alongside the presentation. I still haven't even really seen his first collection!! I saw Kristen Wiig hosted SNL wearing a dress from FW20 couture that wasn't in the video. And apparently there was menswear in his first collection too! UGH

 

[jeanclaude]

As far as the pics allow to show, it seems there is more work in the whole photoshoot than in the clothes. Underwhelming! I was expecting more from Theyskens.

 

[perhydrol]

I'm sure the quality of the clothes is insane, but aesthetically they don't differ much from the collections done by the previous designer of Azzaro. I get that Olivier wants to get that coin because he needs it for his own brand, but so far it's been a rather disappointing experience.

 

[YohjiAddict]

It's nothing I haven't seen before and the closing numbers of his last show for his brand were so much better.

Are those the Guy Bourdin mirrors Madonna stole for her Hollywood video? I always wondered whatever happened to them...

 

[Phuel]

Admittedly lacking in design-building.

However, it’s very steeped in a french cinematic mood— in particular of that magical period of late-60s/early-70s. There’s this instant-vintage fume to these bejewelled and still discreet pieces that, as mentioned, could easily slip in with Hedi's/Anthony’s offerings. For someone with a once such sharply-graphic sensibility, these almost heirloom-looking pieces seems so deliberate. As also mentioned, it wouldn’t hurt to also include the collection in straightforward lookbook shots, although I like the tone of some of these shots. And I like where he is now in terms of aesthetic. I'll take it.

(The men's however…)

 

[Lola701]

For the second time, the underwhelming presentation makes the collection looks like an after thought.
That being said, he understand the spirit of Azzaro. Azzaro is party clothes, fluid fabrics, Glamour and hedonism...
I think the menswear should have been worn by the woman.

Very Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane no?

The irony is that YSL by Slimane was maybe more Azzaro than YSL. 70's YSL wasn't about party clothes at all.

 

[Benn98]

I'm just glad it's not another 'youth' direction!

The 2 evening dresses are stunning and take me back to Vanessa Seward. Under her direction, Azzarro was one of the hottest red carpet brands in the mid to late 2000s. That's what helped sell the perfumes as well.
Thing is, for me Azzaro is an eveningwear brand with a strong sexy undertone. To that end Look 4 is so out of place and so Rochas. Obviously, it won't work for this brand. Also, more Tom Ford and less Saint Laurent please.

And the menswear doesn't match the mood of this brand.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ I find the literal hip-hugging cut rather conservatively sexy on that piece. I dig the heavy Faberge-embroidered and still looking lightweight (and wonder what the lining looks like...). Without a presentation that showcases these pieces in motion— and he’s known for his graceful engineering of volume in motion, it’s a shame that there aren’t even some damn lookbook shots. (As gorgeously photographed as the B&W and sliced shots are, they're so annoying for such a purpose of such a small offering!)

I think the menswear should have been worn by the woman.

The menswear would look so much more gorgeous, and actually compliment the feminine pieces, styled on the woman., and fill out the collection to look and feel more complete.

 

[JohannesL]

What a waste of talent! He clearly understands the house code, but some of the looks fit more into his own aesthetics. I find the last collection from his own brand more inspiring than this one. In the best possible world, I am still waiting for someone to give him the job in one of the main couture maisons, such as Dior, Chanel, Givenchy or even Fendi! Sigh!

 

[Nomar]

The clothes are fine but I'm obsessed with the mirror shots.

 

[Lola701]

What a waste of talent! He clearly understands the house code, but some of the looks fit more into his own aesthetics. I find the last collection from his own brand more inspiring than this one. In the best possible world, I am still waiting for someone to give him the job in one of the main couture maisons, such as Dior, Chanel, Givenchy or even Fendi! Sigh!

I think if you are waiting for him to get that Big House job, you might wait for your entire lifetime.

I actually like him for Azzaro. What I don’t like is the overall cheap nature of the outcome. The clothes are great but everything around feels very « on the budget ». I think it deserves at least an iconic model.
If Siriano can have Coco Rocha, he can at least have Natasha Poly!

 

[YohjiAddict]

I honestly don't care if he never heads a major house, they come with nothing but huge pressures and by now being there is like being chained to a cadaver, needing to keep the decaying facade of heritage to sell nothing but crap...

I think it's fine for some designers to exist in a place outside of all that noise, either by need or by choice.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Let's be honest - Azzaro's house codes don't necessarily vibe with Olivier's style but for him to make a killer evening dress is really something we all know by now he can do in his sleep. So I'm relatively unsurprised about all the dresses looking fine but thinking that they are lacking a bit in personality as well. Azzaro calls for a lot of rhinestones and glitter-y lame and this to me looks like tasteful Peter Dundas / Cavalli / Julien Macdonald kind of glamour. He has a tasteful eye for dressmaking proportions and nice embroidery work but this is really nothing to remember compared to anything he's done at his own label, at Rochas or Nina Ricci when it comes down to jaw-dropping eveningwear!

The menswear gives me a headache, it's the kind of stuff I would imagine a Belarussian singer would wear for Eurovision Song contest. You can tell he is not an experienced menswear designer, the cut of his tailoring is a bit weird to be honest. Then again, I wonder how far of a reach Azzaro menswear has in the end of the day if even the women's presentation and overall visibility of the brand seems like it's done on a shoestring budget.