Balenciaga F/W 00.01 Paris

[helmut.newton]

A further look at Ghesquiere's earlier work

PARIS, March 2, 2000

By Armand Limnander

Nicolas Ghesquière showed one of the most original, refined collections of the season for Balenciaga.

At a moment when artless reinterpretations of the past seem to dominate the runways, his clothes stood out for their distinct originality. To be sure, there were strong '80s references, like sharp shoulders, punk-inspired fastenings on jackets and pegged baggy trousers; but the looks were constructed with a freshness that had nothing to do with the past.

While straight, narrow black pants were worn with strict jackets and zippered shirts, ragged, tattered dresses were wrapped around the body to look nonchalantly chic. Tailored jeans were the perfect companions for batwing turtlenecks, tapestry tiger-print vests and elaborately ruffled tops. The quiet color scheme—centered on black, navy, rust and tan—added an element of sobriety and elegance to the clothes. In all, it was an extraordinary presentation—one that is sure to put Balenciaga once and for all in the center of the fashion map.

Full Collection:

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[helmut.newton]

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[helmut.newton]

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[helmut.newton]

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[helmut.newton]

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[helmut.newton]

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[helmut.newton]

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[helmut.newton]

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[helmut.newton]

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[helmut.newton]

Style.com/ isn't working at the moment; I will post the remaining images as soon as I can.

 

[BerlinRocks]

loved this collection.
loved even more the campain of this collection !

 

[Scott]

ah the good ol' days as they say

 

[Squizree]

I was only 11 when this collection came out. I always wish that my fashion instincts had kicked in earlier in life than 13. This collection is an example of that. It's so well tailored and so perfectly constructed.

 

[mikeijames]

this is why it remains such an insult to compare nicolas ghesquiere for balenciaga to some of the recent pairings of new designers with iconic houses. even before he had gucci group money -- that came in 2002, no? -- he produced some of the most spell-binding garments for that house. if we focus on even one aspect of this show -- let's say the insanely popular balenciaga pant at the time -- it's just so astounding to realize he stood YEARS ahead of the fashion curve. remember, we were doing "boot cut" everything back then. and no one did eighties shoulders back then. this is what a brilliant designer at a european house is supposed to look like. yes, it did not look like the balenciaga of our fond nostalgic sixties memories, but it's still quintessentially balenciaga as we think of it today. i'm glad all of these years have proved him right over his critics.

 

[ponytrot]

Stunning collection - helmut.newton, I love the way you revive these old collections! Puts some of the current designers to shame.

 

[Scott]

i agree mike....before gucci group/PPR....before the silly it bags...this was pure and utter design.

it's kind of sad too looking back at these old collections....thinking how he never had to rely on a gimmick to sell his beautiful work or just to merely capture a person's wonderment.

 

[Squizree]

^ Whats even sadder is that things will never go back to the way they were. It's shocking how different the industry was only 10 years ago. In just 10 years the fashion industry went from a brilliant expressive medium to an artistic pool heavily diluted by greed and money.

 

[Scott]

^the thing about nicholas then compared with now,it just felt like he was allowed his own distinctive voice....a certain kind of freedom. also,in those days it never felt like he was even designing a 'house'....i mean he stood alongside many uncompromising independents of his generation like branquinho,theyskens,simons,vandevorst and the like....it was such a testament of how pure his work really was then.

but it's true,it's changed so much the last 7 years. not only is that kind of freedom on the forefront but it almost seems like it's frowned upon...like it's sacrilege or something.

 

[mrsjamesdean]

Its always seems like a designer's past collection seems the best to us. I bet the next generation will praise the current collection in ten years time. I still like Nicholas and his overall designs especially when other designers are basically regurgitating trends. But the early 2000's were great and obliviously it was his prime time.

 

[Donatello89]

we're far from we have luck to see today...