Cristóbal is smiling again (sort of). In my opinion, it's better than anything Demna has ever done for the maison, I'm convinced of it. In a way, I had extremely high expectations for this debut, and they were only partially met. But you should never judge a creative direction based on a debut collection (with the exception of Dario Vitale's at Versace and Walter Chiapponi's at Blumarine, ahah).
That said, I noticed references to previous creative directors, most notably, of course, Demna's: the sunglasses (which I absolutely hated), the black leather paired with jeans.
Still, what I'm truly waiting for is the Couture show, where Piccioli will be able to delve into and study the brand's archives in depth.
Giammetti’s face in the front row, realizing he lost Piccioli, says it all.