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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by vogue28, Feb 28, 2020.
Can anyone bring Christophe Decarnin back to Balmain?
And on the way bring along Anna Selezneva and Magdalena to walking the shows?
A vast VAST improvement from last season, and think there's a handful of great pieces here. I'm particularly fond of the capes, the molded leather body corsets, and those fluid silk dresses toward the end. A few questionable looks here and there but overall a hit of a collection, IMO!
I have to give Olivier credit when credit is due - those sculpted leather tops are incredible, the cape dresses are incredible, Helena's look is very chic, I see some great separates. It's still a monstrously large collection filled with everything and the kitchen sink, but some of it is truly the best work he's done in his career.
He should really just stop with the prints because they are almost always atrocious.
Not as offensive as previous seasons, but still bad. His hand for cut, volumes and fabrics is just so unbelievably tacky. Lots of it looked like Star Wars costumes.
I see an improvement. The first few looks are different and fine. Overall, this is still an eyesore.
It all looks dated and out of touch. Prints are simply awful and so are oversized and shapeless blazers, sarouel satin pants, two-tone circus jackets towards the end...
The evening satin dresses look ok, and I like the molded leather tops, that's just about it.
He has gone so far downhill, it's unbelievable. This collection lacks any amount of class. It's so tacky.
Compared to the utter crap he's given us thoughout his career this is actually not bad...some of this looks like you tried to recreate a Loewe look using nothing but your aunt's trapped-in-the-80's clothes, with mixed results.
I like he did something feels like he pushed himself bit more this time
really love those all latex looking looks they're sooo good, loving some of the styling too
Give this guy a time-machine; and its dial would be stucked in the 1980s forever!
Wowwww!!! I don't know, I loved this collection. The casting really sold it for me (that opening sequence followed by Liya? ) and transported me to a different era. There were a number of looks that seemed to reference collections I'm nostalgic about/am happy to see on the runway in an updated way: Balenciaga FW2007, Alber Elbaz for Lanvin flowing dresses, the McQueen chest plate, the Chloe capes and denim skirt. Most of the looks felt wearable enough to me or could be broken down into wearable pieces, and the heavy '80s imagery made Olivier's silhouettes and structured jackets feel like they had a place.
Lastly – and maybe this is inaccurate because I haven't been following Balmain too closely the past few years – it seems like Olivier had been building on his own tropes each collection instead of referencing and working with the greater trends around him... This collection actually looks like pieces New York women would wear, instead of red carpet looks that were designed in a void.
I really like this collection in the context of this new resurgence in glamour we've seen this season
People seem to dismiss him unfairly while praising and hyping some lessers :cough:JW:cough: to the highest of heavens. That the other guy may have been simply smart enough to hire a better team of dressmakers, but same old same old tacky and repetitive designs as Olivier's. And at least Olivier owns the tackiness rather than attempt to pass it off as anything but.
Olivier’s tailoring really annoys me: He’s likely shut down all these naysayers if he just get the tailoring right. And it’s such a wonder he doesn't since it’s not his lonesome self toiling away on every collection. Cuz here, he’s doing the latex bodyglove better than Anthony at SL; he’s doing the molded bustier way more interesting than Tom Ford; and his offering of Ferre-esque overblown ruffles is sort of working. Just those 3 design elements would have been enough for one collection. And frankly, his casting has always been his strongest point to show out the less than stellar designs. Now, if he’d only trash those obnoxious late-80s St. John contrasting lapel and pocket detailing along with the even more cheapening Hermes-knockoff prints looks (God, save them for the showroom if these are the pieces that sell to all the Kim K wannabes).
I wouldn’t wear Balmain men if I were paid, but I see (and even appreciate) that he’s so consistent with his vision of an obnoxiously proud Bourgeoisie Queen (and that applies to both his women’s and men’s). That’s the brand of fashion diversity that’s desperately needed in these dire days.
I’ve seen Balmain worn by really stylish women and they looked great. The problem with Olivier is the editing because on their own, those pieces works. The slicker the silhouette is, the better it looks...
There are a lot of great pieces lost in the sea of horrendous silhouettes! It’s very 1985 Versace with a touch of Anne Marie Beretta.
Kudos on the casting! Esther? Liya? Caroline? Julia? I’m sold!
Ps: I must add that the amount of plastic surgery in the Balmain audience was quite frightening!
I open a Balmain thread and wait for the train wreck. It didn't happen this time. It's actually an interesting collection. The molded corsets and the latex jacket with built in gloves looks intriguing if not difficult to wear. The coats look good. I've grown to accept that the garish patterns are a signature thing with Olivier but they're not so offensive this time.
IKR! He sent out 20 leather jackets and torn up shorts at one point and it looked elegant. Olivier is just TACKY!
Olivier desperately needs a stylist.
I think he is a good designer. His shows are always full of great pieces but the poor styling and lack of editing downgrades everything. Whenever I see VP use his stuff I am surprised how beautiful it can look,
When it comes to the collection I love it.
Some looks are absolutely amazing. Liyas outfit is one of the best thing he has ever done. I also like the rounder shoulders. He should stick to that, it looks much more flattering.
Unfortunately as usual there are lots of awkward proportions and failed attempts at recreating YSL couture (Rousteing chose the ugliest silhouette available). He should stay away from satin which is good for bias cut dresses but not stiff blazers and suits.
There is a huge potential. They just have to find someone with fresh eye and enough confidence to say stop when its the right moment.