The womenswear looks like Demna's Balenciaga f*cked Ghesquière's Balenciaga and this is the demon child they created, while the menswear looks like Saint Laurent circa 2019.
He did the Miami thing in his early days at Balmain. It looked better…
There’s this complexity in Olivier’s work and his constant desire to do excess on excess while not mastering the Art of being subtle. A lot of pieces are beautiful in the womenswear and in the menswear but each look is like a battle of strong pieces against ridiculous accessories and weird proportions. Why can’t Balmain simply deliver a sexy pair of shoes?
Why the styling is that approximative?
In a way, he has moved on from the expected tropes of sexy dressing but his work would be better if a certain lightness was infused.
I feel like so many designers are overstimulated and depressed (much like everyone else) these days so they resort to making the most ridiculous things possible to actually feel something. Precipitating with this ijbolian look 1 and subsequent short stumpy wide hip wide shoulder jackets?
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