Saint Laurent Pre-Fall 2022 Paris

[jeanclaude]

They forgot to add a last pic to the lookbook:

It´s so obvious...

(eestatic.com)

 

[Lola701]

It’s very Tom Ford but Anthony doesn’t have that touch yet. Tom likes to play with the idea of taste and pushing taste. Vaccarello is still quite conventional in his associations he is absorbing the heritage of his predecessor at YSL even if to my regret, there’s nothing particularly him in his collections.

 

[kasper!]

It's good but mostly becausing the styling and art direction. IMO Anthony doesn't have the vision strong enough to reach the sales goal set by Kering, he hasn't updated the retail concept yet so the stores are all remain the same like Hedi, even Celine boutique has evolved. Most of the bags inside the store look like continuous models from Pilati era and with limited variation.

Also there is a one thing which damage their brand identity a lot : YSL beaute is owned by L'Oreal. Many young client are wondering what is the relation between Saint Laurent and YSL....I see some young people who think YSL first started as a make-up brand.(L'Oreal is doing a great MKT job..)

 

[Kimihiro]

They really need the beauty license back… and yes, this whole understated approach with YSL might make it harder for them to reach that 5 billion thing. Their Bags while nice have that more of the same feeling. Maybe they’ll focus on it soon.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Anthony really needs to improve on the fabric choices. None of them feel sexy or sensual here, they only feel like some "sexy fashion 101" exploration that is at such a surface level it is quite frankly, infuriating. It is hard to describe, but they lack an 'essence' that he is really trying to tap into but he really can't. I guess that is what makes it so French/Parisian though, the air of self-seriousness and facade of provocation that disguises a rather limited view on things.

Also, the brands under Kering are starting to morph into one. They're all extracting things from each other a little too obviously...

 

[yslforever]

They really need the beauty license back… and yes, this whole understated approach with YSL might make it harder for them to reach that 5 billion thing. Their Bags while nice have that more of the same feeling. Maybe they’ll focus on it soon.

When Kering won over the bid for Gucci Group (then owner of YSL RTW and Beauty); they outbid LVMH but were in dire need of fresh cash so immediately sold the YSL Beauty to L'Oreal; now it's Kering's dream to buy back the Beauty but L'Oreal has continuously refuse (that's part of the reason Hedi left, he wanted full artistic direction of the Beauty as long as the RTW). AV and Kering are still trying but, the more they offer, the higher L'Oreal raises its asking prices.
Same think for Haute Couture, the company and the HC rights still belong to YSL Pierre Bergé heir, not Kering, and the archives belong to an independant foundation, which recently has kicked off all Kering executives and strawmen with the exception of Francesca Bellettini the CEO. And the Foundation (which have ten of thousand of outfits and the most incredible pieces) thinks very poorly of AV's talents, skills or aesthetics (I have heard "colorblind designer with no knowledge of women except streat workers of Brussels and LA").
A couple of seasons ago, the collection was dedicated to Paloma Picasso and she was due to appear in in the show and then the campaign but she bailed out of them both, speaking of the lack of of talent of AV; "I have already all the top-notch original HC clothes, why on Earth would I settle for far less ??".

I fully agree that an integrated Saint-Laurent, with RTW, Beauty, and more than 40 years of archives by the founder itself, plus Elbaz and Slimane, could be a direct competitors to Dior or even, Chanel, but with another designer. After all, Dior has limited history and archives (Christian, Galliano, certainly not Bohan, Ferré, GMC or RF), some of them quite dated and not very innovative.

 

[VogueDisciple93]

Immaculate collection! It gave money hunny

 

[keviners]

Love it!

 

[Deleted member 167090]

"I have already all the top-notch original HC clothes, why on Earth would I settle for far less ??".

She summed up the current state of haute couture!

 

[Lola701]

I’m still processing the fact that those fake fur coats costs between 8000 and 12000 euros… I’m kind of lost on that.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Maybe it's an experiment to find the new threshold of stupid

 

[THD96]

I’m still processing the fact that those fake fur coats costs between 8000 and 12000 euros… I’m kind of lost on that.

I guessed some people are just happy spending 12 thousand euros to wrap around acrylic and polyester.

The designs of these coats may be better, but frankly, for that kind of price, I rather go to Fendi and get a mink jacket instead.

Someone better tell people at YSL at the whole point of faux fur is to be cheaper than the real one.

Based on the "ethnic" of these luxury companies, I guessed they mark up the price by at least 200%.

 

[Lola701]

I guessed some people are just happy spending 12 thousand euros to wrap around acrylic and polyester.

The designs of these coats may be better, but frankly, for that kind of price, I rather go to Fendi and get a mink jacket instead.

Someone better tell people at YSL at the whole point of faux fur is to be cheaper than the real one.

Based on the "ethnic" of these luxury companies, I guessed they mark up the price by at least 200%.

I mean when we talk about the state of luxury, there’s this question about fabrics, ethic and marketing.

I mean some of the brands that have been very vocal about not using furs and exotic leather are now selling acrylic faux furs, embossed leather at the prices of the real thing…And at the same time, they are still producing (but not advertising) products, with those exact fabrics they supposedly banned, through special orders for their best clients.

And indeed, those YSL coat are stunning in their cut or allure but for 12000€ you can get a shearling coat or even more precious furs elsewhere…

But the notion of luxury has changed drastically. I find it a bit cynical and dangerous on a long term for those brands. When a plain cotton tshirt with embroideries cost the price of a dress in chantilly lace, when a faux fur coat cost as much or more than a real fur coat, it question also the value of fabrics.
If you make a product that in terms of quality does not present a significative gap with the high street, I wonder how those millenials will consume in the future and if/when the bubble will at some point explode.

It’s generally people older or people from my generation that complains about quality and price increase. The marketing is working well for new generation to whom luxury= high prices.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Absolutely. Blaring logos/mongrams = luxury to this generation. (The guy in front of me at the pharmacy was decked out in Gucci sweats and slides: That most heinous of design of the logo surrounding a logo… Whether it was a knockoff or real— who cares, when the real thing was inspired by knockoffs…. Sadly or hilariously, a trend that sells.)

Stella was one of the first over a decade ago— if not the first, to charge more for pleather than leather, or whatever it was branded as then. Stella may have been genuine in her stance, but it’s a performative statement these days to declare you’ve spent more for faux-anything than what the real thing costs. And brands know this. It’s definitely easier and more cost-effective to work with these polluting synthetics than the real thing and still have suckers eagerly eating it all up— and praise your brand for going cruelty-free LOL

 

[Cocteau Stone]

It is odd with the argument about going "ethical" because all the faux variations are just as bad, if not worse, for the environment.

All of them are made from polyethylene, petroleum, thermoplastics and a whole heap of other stuff that are so bad but slap the right marketing on it and people will swoon so hard over it. I have similar sentiments towards Glenn Marten's extreme denim treatments at Diesel and Y-Project; so many colours (denim has huge run off and is easily over dyed), fraying/deconstruction (enough airborne fibers to rival a jute mill and possible use of devoré that may contain formaldehyde depending on the process) and excessive cotton production.

I am humoured by those that get sucked in because I like to laugh at the boo-boo the fools, acting as if they know their stuff because it's a well known brand, but it is disheartening.The faux stuff doesn't even last as long, and when disposed of, doesn't biodegrade and can rarely be recycled. Reselling is even harder because if the person has sweated all over everything that scent lingers. Hard.

I'm a vegetarian, but I grew up on a farm doing home slaughters and live stock maintenance. If the environment is fine, it isn't factory farmed, I have no issue with animal based products but there is a line. The animals are domesticated and farmed to the point where setting them free is pointless anyways, they'll just over graze and die at ridiculous rates. Exotic is different... unless it's vintage. I have several high quality angora and other fur trim coats from the 60s-80s and if they have already lasted this long I don't care. It'll last me for 40-60 odd years so why not. Same as some deadstock fabrics. I'd rather by someone's discarded alpaca/mohair wool than some sh*tty synthetic variant all because of "ethics".

There's a difference between textile innovation and cop-out. And considering AV penchant for maundane fabric selection, he is very much none the wiser and seems to be easily swayed/manipulated by the PR and marketing teams.