you know, he gets so much grace - an incredible amount of grace - and patience, and i love that for him. no shade, i honestly do. but he's the guy who has potential and that's all it is: speculative potential (aka surmised potential) with inconsistently minuscule follow through.
it's not even brilliance; just flickers of smart tailoring here and there, good them ideas, yet it all lacks cohesion, editing, and worst of all, execution. this whole collection is regressive and i can't even say enervate because he is designing at his level, at his peak. wanting better is wanting something that never existed and was never going to manifest.
i am comfortable in my opinion that he's not a great designer, not legendary, just mediocre with a healthy budget and system of support. a sentient prop with sympathetic sob stories. i commend and respect his hustle and ability to have had such a long, prominent career thus far.