Belgian designers: seizing the moment

[Scott]

I actually think it's a little bit of both,really. That school has helped alot in that but also Belgians in general are actually,extremely down-to-earth. Actually,it's probably in all their personalities but spurred on by attending that school.

 

[Lena]

glad you guys enjoyed reading this article..
here is part three, credited as before

Belgian designers have long invested their profits and energies in aspects of the business invisible to the media: supporting their retail clients.
That means everything from ensuring good finishing and complete deliveries to feeding buyers well in the showroom. Van Noten's chef, for example, travels with the collection to Milan and New York to whip up healthy meals for those writing orders.
But several smaller designer firms have downsized recently, finding it too risky to carry a huge design staff. They're also recognizing they can't be rigidly conceptual but need to put the focus back on product to better service retail clients and compete in a crowded market.
Raf Simons, for example, had at one point employed 15 people at his eponymous men's wear label. Recently, he switched to an arrangement in which he operates a small "creative office" that controls his name and design, with all other functions handled by various distribution and production partners.
"I do zero investment in my own brand, so I don't carry the risk but I do control my image," Simons said in an interview, noting, however, that he recently expanded his creative staff in Antwerp now that he also does double duty as creative director of Jil Sander in Milan.
"Keeping your own independence has to be linked with more commerciality," Simons stressed. "At a certain point, you have to deal with fashion and its economic laws. I'm working in a more product-oriented way now. In the first years, I was very conceptual."
Simons and Branquinho both recently added a second label, but neither characterized it as a marketing ploy or equated it with the brand segmentation employed by American and Italian designers. Simons said Raf by Raf Simons allows him to continue addressing the young customers he's always attracted, while exploring more grown-up looks in his main collection, which doubled its sales for fall-winter 2006.
Branquinho said her new Complice line was a way to maintain timeless and essential items like trenchcoats and blazers as part of her universe. But she shows and sells Complice along with her men's collection, allowing her to deliver some women's styles earlier.
AF Vandevorst also readies its collection in tandem with the men's calendar, in January and July, which has boosted business. Last season, the company had 35 percent of orders in hand at the moment of its fashion show in Paris. "This season we tripled our business in America," said Filip Arickx, who now runs the business, leaving his wife, An Vandevorst, to concentrate fully on design. "France is doing very well again, too."
AF Vandevorst also streamlined its staffing and production, for example, concentrating the manufacture of all woven designs in one factory instead of 15, as it had previously.
Loppa acknowledged that tough times in fashion have prompted many young Belgian designers to go work behind the scenes at large brands in France and Italy. But she pointed to promising independents like Kris Van Assche, Peter Pilotto, Bernhard Willhelm and Bruno Pieters as a reason to be optimistic.
"That's the strength of Belgian designers. They want to be in charge," Loppa said. To wit: Her school will turn out 18 fashion graduates this year, with one in five likely to launch a label.
"They're great designers. They're very professional and a few are extremely good," said Loppa. "I don't have to worry for the future."

 

[nqth]

Thanks Lena for the article:-)

My question is "who is making a fragrance?" :-) It must be very very interesting!

I have seen an interview with Christian Wijnants, and he talked quite a while about the fashion school in Antwerp. It is interesting that the students are given historical projects... to do and those are then published in their website. Every student is presented. It's cool:-)

 

[Scott]

Oh I just adore Peter Pilotto. I think he will indefinitely make a breakthrough very soon.

 

[Scott]

Where did it say that there was fragrance due out,nqth? A bit interested since I know none have ever been interested in that kind marketing.

 

[nqth]

^ it is in the first Lena's post Scott. I heard about Margiela's scent quite a time ago but nothing has happened still.

But now, with sober clothes coming back into fashion and Belgian companies operating more leanly, most designers are optimistic about their business prospects for the first time in years. Some are even contemplating retail stores, or expansion into new categories like men's wear or fragrance.

 

[kus]

i dont't get the bit about optimism.
exept that, wow,
crazy,

no?

 

[softgrey]

it definitely must have something to do with that school..
which must teach them to be creative and practical at the same time....
to work hard and work smart...
this is a very telling statement -

"They're great designers. They're very professional and a few are extremely good," said Loppa.

because they aren't just talented designers....but they all run a good business as well...
which is what i think is lacking in many of the designers in other cities...
too many young designers want to be the next john galliano or tom ford and just be fabulous and go to parties all the time...

these folks don't go to parties...
they just put their heads down and go to work..
here is some evidence at least, that hard work does sometimes pay off......

looks like that new investor in ann's company is doing wonders..60% increase?...not bad...
but it WAS an exceptionally good couple of collections too......

*same with vandervoorst...
but come fall 06-those figures will drop back down because the collection was not good..
....

nqth- i bet it's margiela..he's got renzo behind him now....he's been expanding like crazy!!

 

[konrad]

what ever happened to xavier delcour? i haven't heard much about him recently

 

[Lena]

i dont't get the bit about optimism.
exept that, wow,
crazy,

well kus, sales wise they have every reason to be optimistic, seems that most of Belgians mentioned are -finally- going financially great.
nice seeing you around B)

 

[new_dawn_fades]

thanks so much for the article...
this is very interesting... i join the chorus and say go belgium!!!

 

[melt977]

Thank you Lena!

 

[kus]

we could all chip in
and buy your favorite designer belg
a drink.

or pleat.
but i think drink is better.

 

[faust]

what ever happened to xavier delcour? i haven't heard much about him recently

he keeps doing his own thing, as far as i know. i think he cut out a big enough niche that allows him to stay afloat. i don't think he has anymore new york stocklists though...

 

[battles]

just today i had the time to read the article...
thanks for posting lena.

btw, has anyone seen http://www.orson-bodil.com/? it's alexander van slobbe (so) womenswear line. the s/s 06 collection had been posted there, but i think i much prefer the previous collections.

 

[Lena]

you are all very welcome

kus, i agree, lets get them a beer

 

[Zazie]

It's so nice to read about this pendulum swing back to integrity vs. hype, I just hope it has a longer stay this time. Thanks Lena! I am very optimistic not just about the Belgians but a lot of other young European designers respecting and following this inspiring model, Austrians, Germans, Scandinavians and even the sorts like Preen in London. Kudos to the Belgians who have kept this burning in an age when flamboyance, advertising and excess ruled. Unfortunately, this is much less so in the US, where the mass media, Anna Wintour's and socialite/celebrity patronage still makes a "star designer" more than inherent talent.

 

[freefashion]

Very interesting thread Lena!