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Berluti Mens S/S 2020 Paris
- Thread starter Benn98
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TheoG
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Yeah, there something about details like the added feathers that lessen it. And I'm not a particular fan of color palette. Tough act to follow.
Lola701
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The thing is that Berluti is this kind of super exclusive brand that even a rich millennial can be afraid of. And it’s really one of the brand where the RTW needs to be complementary of the shoes.
It’s good to have a little bit of originality but the gimmicks are just off.
It’s funny, Veronique at Hermès delivered a marvelous collection and managed to make something current, fashionable and yet timeless....Something that KVA doesn’t get.
Despite his talent I don’t think that KVA has the shoulders to speak to a high fashion customer like that. I think he should maybe go for pure fashion and maybe do something less exclusive.
rip_ian curtis
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I think anything he touches just ends up being a very soulless version of whatever else is out there. Even more so here than what he did at Dior.
Really not my cup of tea, especially now that the brand he works for doesn’t say anything to me.
Really not my cup of tea, especially now that the brand he works for doesn’t say anything to me.
bc collector
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I was always really incredulous that internal politics within LVMH ousted a major talent like Haider in favor of a - let's say it - zealous but not particularly innovative designer like KVA. I still struggle to overcome my bias towards his work at Berluti because of that.
That said, there is a fundamental question facing Berluti: personal opinions on each collection aside, I still wonder if the LVMH honchos have a vague idea of who the Berluti customer is. In my experience, certainly not a fashion consumer, someone who can be lured to wear the things KVA puts on the runway.
It was the same conundrum Zegna faced during the Pilati years (and still does now, I believe
they wanted to give themselves a more designer-y, fashion veneer but their core client was and remains a middle aged man, loaded but not necessarily equipped with the sensibility to get those clothes. Thus the minimal space dedicated to the runway pieces in the stores, where 95% of the space was dedicated to their original business, suits and office wear of sorts.
I get it, at the end of the day they don't really expect to make money out of the RTW anyway, it's more a marketing strategy to reposition themselves in the market, but then, if so, why the hell they couldn't keep Haider on?
That said, there is a fundamental question facing Berluti: personal opinions on each collection aside, I still wonder if the LVMH honchos have a vague idea of who the Berluti customer is. In my experience, certainly not a fashion consumer, someone who can be lured to wear the things KVA puts on the runway.
It was the same conundrum Zegna faced during the Pilati years (and still does now, I believe
they wanted to give themselves a more designer-y, fashion veneer but their core client was and remains a middle aged man, loaded but not necessarily equipped with the sensibility to get those clothes. Thus the minimal space dedicated to the runway pieces in the stores, where 95% of the space was dedicated to their original business, suits and office wear of sorts.I get it, at the end of the day they don't really expect to make money out of the RTW anyway, it's more a marketing strategy to reposition themselves in the market, but then, if so, why the hell they couldn't keep Haider on?
