My top collections are (in this order
1. Raf Simons - After the Jil Sander show, I was very curious as to what Raf would cook up for his mainline...it feels like this is the real potential that the Sander show was aspiring to but couldn't quite reach due to Jil's customer base. Truly a work of technical genius with those double layered/zippered jackets and experimental collars on knitwear. I'm not so much a fan of Raf's own suits, but the overcoats seemed amazingly tailored paired with those immaculate trousers. Probably one of the best contemporary menswear collections I've seen since the time I started getting into fashion.
2. Yohji Yamamoto - Brilliant collection from Yohji for me, his best since S/S 05. It feels incredibly wearable to me, and the cut of his blazers is absolutely fantastic...the all black looks increased my appreciation of the way he cuts his trousers in a kind of sloppy, baggy way...paired with those jackets with flappy lapels it really gives a sense of insouciant Parisian hobo chic. I can see this stuff being worn by twenty year olds with equal ease as it would on 40+ aged men. That's the reason why Yohji is my favorite designer...the clothes never seem dated, are timeless, and even today I can look good in a Yohji coat that my dad bought decades ago.
3. Number (N)ine - Well, I predicted on that first day of Paris menswear show that by the end of everything my 3 favorite collections would be these 3 I mentioned and it seems about right now. The collection seems to be a greatest hits package of other dark, edgy designers, but I love the way this whole collection was styled and set up...I like this collection a lot because whenever I see it I imagine myself in some artfully contrived photo shoot wearing these clothes, it's like they have an attitude of their own. Best N(N) collection for me since F/W 2004-05.
Honorable mentions:
Dior Homme - Good to see a return to formal tailoring and the couture concept, however it doesn't quite have the 'edge' it used to, as faust mentioned in the thread for the collection. The volume was done nicely but it does feel a bit like one step behind Raf.
Cloak - Nice dark collection, I liked the houndstooth knits and that red leather jacket with the fastening device on the front was a nice touch...however I was not impressed with Cloak's construction when I tried on some blazers in person, otherwise I'd like to give him more points for his tailoring, as it does look very nice in the photos.
Definitely an excellent collection, and a step forward with those gorgeous coats.
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