Blouson Noir by Melanie Ward & Graham Tabor S/S 10 Showroom

Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by Scott, Oct 13, 2009.

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  1. Scott

    Scott Stitch:the Hand

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    it's inspired by tea towels:D
    i don't really like that they're comparing melanie to rachel zoe...melanie has more a substantial fashion background whereas rachel is celebrity.


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    *wwd.com
     
  2. Scott

    Scott Stitch:the Hand

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    it's also worth pointing out too,recently in fantastic man magazine,melanie admitted that she was in fact the designer of the womenswear at Helmut Lang.

    i like this a lot and look forward to seeing more in the coming seasons. we all know melanie's strong personality and vision but also graham tabor is a brilliant talent in his own right.
     
  3. gius

    gius chat~

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    tea towels.. interesting.. :) it would be nice to see the idea if applied to the white ones too, very summery

    thanks for posting scott !
     
  4. tricotineacetat

    tricotineacetat Active Member

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    That was in fact Alexa Adams, one half of Ohne Titel, who was doing a lot of the actual design work. As the creative director, it would have been Ward's part to work with Helmut on the conceptual aspect of his collections, as well as obviously finally putting them together - His' were really some of the few collections that actually needed and lived from the styling to have runway and/or editorial impact, that's where she was such a genius at. She might have had a lot to say in issues like 'We need some more strappy harnesses here', that's what you could see also in the one season she was with Lagerfeld, that it really had the same 'layered' feel as with Helmut (interesting enough, that's where Alexa and her Ohne Titel partner, Flora, also used to work).

    Other than that, I am quite unimpressed by the pieces I can see here. For a collection by Melanie Ward, this is really missing on the cool, urban, intricately layered feel that her styling always embodies - I don't think that 'themed' collection inspirations work that well with her style, I am thinking that she would do a lot better at focussing on something where it was more about how the clothes were to be worn than to follow such a narrative (especially when the clothes then end up having a very arts-and-crafts-y/cute-sy feel).
     
    #4 tricotineacetat, Oct 14, 2009
    Last edited by moderator anchi: Oct 14, 2009
  5. skot4mc

    skot4mc Active Member

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    Thanks for posting this Scott.

    Also, thanks for the additional information tricot. It's so fascinating to learn about how people within the industry are interconnected etc, and how that influences their work.
    I actually very much agree with your assessment of this collection. Especially in taking the approach of how to wear as opposed to a narrative.

    From this selection of looks (are there more?) I certainly don't get a "urban girl" feel, its far too light and weathered. And the lacing is very ineffective.
     
  6. wheneveriwakeup

    wheneveriwakeup a hymn to darkness

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    I like the look in photo 1 and the skirt in the last photo....

    But yes, this is definitely not up to par with Melanie Ward's finesse as a stylist. Some of the looks fall entirely flat and I do think the corset-y aspects would be quite restrictive in terms of versatility. It is very cute though and I'm interested to see what comes from this....

    Thanks, Scott.... :heart:
     
  7. Scott

    Scott Stitch:the Hand

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    but you guys are forgetting too that she's working with graham tabor whose own sensibilities are very much craft-oriented. i agree it's not as complex as one might expect from melanie,but perhaps the line is more a range of simpler things?

    it actually brings to mind some of the aesthetics and attributes of a.f. vandevorst and bernhard willhelm's earlier collections. in fact i think bernhard once worked around elements of tea towels in his spring 2000. but i think this is much simpler in its approach.

    perhaps though,it will begin to evolve more into a more distinct aesthetic the next seasons.

    you're welcome everybody.
     
  8. Mutterlein

    Mutterlein Active Member

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    You know, I'm not so sure that that is all Ward did. The feeling I got was that she was more of a design director rather than just creative consultant. I know a lot of stylists will give input and have designers make pieces that they they need to style with, but I think she actually directed the line. And I'm almost certain it was Ward that brought Alexa with her to Karl after Helmut closed down.
     
  9. tricotineacetat

    tricotineacetat Active Member

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    She most certainly did exactly that, leading the design direction (conceptually and styling-wise) with Helmut and then distributing the execution of those concepts with the design team under Helmut (and later, Karl Lagerfeld). Therewith being just as much a creative director as Riccardo Tisci is at Givenchy (there are other designers executing ideas for him then after either his raw sketches, fabric ideas or other inspirations etc.).

    Let's all agree that Melanie Ward's competence and experience far exceeds that of other stylists and that it did so far lead to a very recognizable signature. To be completely honest, I'm not too sure how well this collaboration with Graham Tabor actually lends itself for either one of them, it does not come up as being very precise, something you kind of expect when an industry heavyweight as her debuts a line of her own. Maybe it's also got to do with the fact that the two of them are stating this collection to be a side project besides their others - That, along with the fact that they are already talking about the possibility of investment feels to me as if they would rather go for an entirely different collection format than this.
     
  10. Mutterlein

    Mutterlein Active Member

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    I can't say i'm in love with all of this. And no, it's not what I'd expect fom Ward. But it's just the first season, i'll be keeping tabs on it.
     
  11. hellimaria

    hellimaria Member

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  12. hellimaria

    hellimaria Member

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