Burberry F/W 2022.23 London

[Phuel]

LOL @ ripping off early-2000 Gaultier’s multiculturalism wholesale is now appropriately British and Burberry?!?!?!

Loewe and Vuitton were never strongly tied to their nationality LOL Just like a brand like Proenza is not strongly identifiably American even if its designer duo are American— unlike a brand like Ralph Lauren, which will always be instantly recognized as American for its preppy aesthetic. Seems as if some are confusingd the difference between a brand that cultivates its heritage as its identifying sensibility as opposed to simply a brand that is based in a country but is not identified by a cultural heritage???

 

[McKinney]

What else are we supposed to base cultural identities off of other than the past? Ie, traditions, customs, memories, etc. I hardly call that “stuffy.” Those things are valuable and meaningful.

I’m just not the kind of person who thinks it’s wise or noble to throw that all out so we can embrace dressing like a thug because it’s “modern.”

If we base our cultural identity on traditions mindsets and behaviors solely off the past then don't be gay, don't vote if you are a woman, don't partake in anything modern or "globalist"
Also, as ugly as I think these clothes are, I fail to see how any of these clothes make you look like a criminal/thug

 

[Cocteau Stone]

For me, this doesn't work at all and I don't think Tisci has been the right fit for Burberry.

The gowns make no sense whatsoever, that is more of a custom red-carpet thing and not a runway thing for Burberry. Many of them aren't even constructed nicely; the silver embroideries on the white dress thing in look 54 are making the fabric droop. There are some okay looks (the very simple straight forward ones like the opening look and look 24), but everything else is just too much. Way too many textiles for the amount of design features they tried to implement in this collection. Some things are just annoyingly complicated looking for no reason.

I do appreciate the bourgeois feel of it, because that is a very Burberry thing. And although I despise the streetwear attempts because they feel very passe and circa-2011, it makes sense. I see Burberry as a very nouveau riche brand because of what it is synonymous with. I've personally viewed Burberry in the same vain as Ralph Lauren. Burberry is to the UK what RL is to the US, which I don't think is much of a problem. The idea of niches in brands has gone by the wayside as of late which is a shame.

Burberry is ultimately a heritage brand no matter what. It is the founder of modern gabardine, influential in British tailoring and in the area of military uniforms, among other things. There's so much there that can form a backbone and I personally think it shouldn't be thrown away, but it also shouldn't be the only thing looked at because these can be developed upon. Burberry is very aristocratic at its core, which is a rather universal sensibility. That very British upper-class utilitarianism/hunting party chic is part of it's DNA, and that can be looked at on a very global scale. You just have to know how to do it well and I don't think Tisci can do that at the moment. Strong references to Gaultier don't help this view either...