Burberry F/W 2025.26 London

[Not Plain Jane]

heavy but also fun ☺️

 

[Kennnnn]

The opening looks were very strong. I especially loved the colour palette (those sort of warm pastel earth tones - delicious), and the use of the Burberry check (finally looked convincingly integrated with his style, rather than forced on him). The rest of the collection was not that great. I did like the jade coloured velvet pantsuit, though.

The one thing I admire about Daniel Lee's Burberry is that there is a groundedness and sense of reality that feel very British. There's an authenticity that perhaps Mathieu Blazy tried very hard to capture at Bottega Veneta, but wasn't always able to. Overall, I will miss Lee's Burberry. With more time, and a sane pricing strategy, it could be such a big success.

 

[JohannesL]

He is a controversial designer in TFS based on the polarized comments. I think he had a moment at BV, but I never get what he has done at Burberry. Maybe I am shallow and don't have the good taste to appreciate his stuff but from the commercial perspective, I haven't seen anyone copy his Burberry supposing he has a big enough cult to create a trend.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

The blue carpet is insanely distracting. I know they are trying to replicate the Burberry blue from his first collection, but if they are going for a fall/winter forest vibe, a floor of leaves would do the job beautifully.


Sportmax fall 2006


Topshop fall 2010

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

They are so desperate in trying to be everything to everyone in one collection. It's really sad because there are so many lovely items and ideas within it. I just wish they would cherry-pick and edit it down to a few sections.The suit on Lila Moss is my favorite.

With Christopher Bailey during the 2000s, it worked because he is a theme-based designer, with each collection reflecting a different aspect of British culture, whether it's Kew Gardens, punk, or Cecil Beaton's West London.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

I was just waiting if he’ll bow and then he did. Oh well. He’s clearly wasted at Burberry…

he looks very oily for some reason

 

[vetements]

I thought this was a rather restrained, commercial attempt at trying to give the bosses what they always wanted; to sell, and cut back on the theatrics. The `artsy, unrestrained` pieces still appear here and there, some mens red printed leather jackets and some womens mustard coat etc.

There are still outerwear, luxe leathers anoraks, that are desirable as Daniel is talented, and no matter how low he go, it is still miles ahead of whatever we have seen in New York or London to date this season. If he were to be able to stay and finetune his collections, Burberry may prove to have found the best fit afterall with his interpretation of Brit heritage.
On top of all the above, the casting was great, styling is sensible, Burberry-blue carpet was on point, even elegant curtains and generally good vibes all over.

I still maintain that designers are given too short a time to prove themselves these days, one or two seasons not making it and you face death penalty soon. How fair and realistic is that, really?

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

They are so desperate in trying to be everything to everyone in one collection. It's really sad because there are so many lovely items and ideas within it. I just wish they would cherry-pick and edit it down to a few sections.The suit on Lila Moss is my favorite.

With Christopher Bailey during the 2000s, it worked because he is a theme-based designer, with each collection reflecting a different aspect of British culture, whether it's Kew Gardens, punk, or Cecil Beaton's West London.

Oh how I miss the 2005 - 2009 days of Bailey's Burberry Prorsum. The collections felt so rich and layered, despite the fact that he was even one of the more "commercial" designers of those years.

I hope whoever goes there next can inject something a little less staunch and sexless. It's not bad, but it all just feels a little soulless and plain. I blame him being from Phoebe's camp of sexless layer-makers. The color palette was really nice though, and those thigh high boots took me back to Fall 2010!

 

[Lola701]

Her walk looks dated.

You think so?
I think that her aura is not the same.
The fact that she is still doing the same antics at 50+ is quite tiring.
And also the fact that she has that same hair, same make up not matter the show. Her presence always feels like « la fois de trop ».

 

[Lola701]

He is a controversial designer in TFS based on the polarized comments. I think he had a moment at BV, but I never get what he has done at Burberry. Maybe I am shallow and don't have the good taste to appreciate his stuff but from the commercial perspective, I haven't seen anyone copy his Burberry supposing he has a big enough cult to create a trend.

Everybody is controversial on TFS, unless you are talking about the past (just take a look at every Olivier Theyskens discussions ) . Suddenly revisionism and nostalgia makes everybody praise what they didn’t like (people could make you believe that Frida Giannini was as great as Miuccia or Consuelo).
People are nostalgic about Burberry from the Milan years in general. So even Bailey who left Burberry in 2018 couldn’t compete with his own past.