Burberry F/W 2025.26 London

[Not Plain Jane]

heavy but also fun ☺️

 

[Kennnnn]

The opening looks were very strong. I especially loved the colour palette (those sort of warm pastel earth tones - delicious), and the use of the Burberry check (finally looked convincingly integrated with his style, rather than forced on him). The rest of the collection was not that great. I did like the jade coloured velvet pantsuit, though.

The one thing I admire about Daniel Lee's Burberry is that there is a groundedness and sense of reality that feel very British. There's an authenticity that perhaps Mathieu Blazy tried very hard to capture at Bottega Veneta, but wasn't always able to. Overall, I will miss Lee's Burberry. With more time, and a sane pricing strategy, it could be such a big success.

 

[JohannesL]

He is a controversial designer in TFS based on the polarized comments. I think he had a moment at BV, but I never get what he has done at Burberry. Maybe I am shallow and don't have the good taste to appreciate his stuff but from the commercial perspective, I haven't seen anyone copy his Burberry supposing he has a big enough cult to create a trend.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

The blue carpet is insanely distracting. I know they are trying to replicate the Burberry blue from his first collection, but if they are going for a fall/winter forest vibe, a floor of leaves would do the job beautifully.


Sportmax fall 2006


Topshop fall 2010

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

They are so desperate in trying to be everything to everyone in one collection. It's really sad because there are so many lovely items and ideas within it. I just wish they would cherry-pick and edit it down to a few sections.The suit on Lila Moss is my favorite.

With Christopher Bailey during the 2000s, it worked because he is a theme-based designer, with each collection reflecting a different aspect of British culture, whether it's Kew Gardens, punk, or Cecil Beaton's West London.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

I was just waiting if he’ll bow and then he did. Oh well. He’s clearly wasted at Burberry…

he looks very oily for some reason

 

[vetements]

I thought this was a rather restrained, commercial attempt at trying to give the bosses what they always wanted; to sell, and cut back on the theatrics. The `artsy, unrestrained` pieces still appear here and there, some mens red printed leather jackets and some womens mustard coat etc.

There are still outerwear, luxe leathers anoraks, that are desirable as Daniel is talented, and no matter how low he go, it is still miles ahead of whatever we have seen in New York or London to date this season. If he were to be able to stay and finetune his collections, Burberry may prove to have found the best fit afterall with his interpretation of Brit heritage.
On top of all the above, the casting was great, styling is sensible, Burberry-blue carpet was on point, even elegant curtains and generally good vibes all over.

I still maintain that designers are given too short a time to prove themselves these days, one or two seasons not making it and you face death penalty soon. How fair and realistic is that, really?

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

They are so desperate in trying to be everything to everyone in one collection. It's really sad because there are so many lovely items and ideas within it. I just wish they would cherry-pick and edit it down to a few sections.The suit on Lila Moss is my favorite.

With Christopher Bailey during the 2000s, it worked because he is a theme-based designer, with each collection reflecting a different aspect of British culture, whether it's Kew Gardens, punk, or Cecil Beaton's West London.

Oh how I miss the 2005 - 2009 days of Bailey's Burberry Prorsum. The collections felt so rich and layered, despite the fact that he was even one of the more "commercial" designers of those years.

I hope whoever goes there next can inject something a little less staunch and sexless. It's not bad, but it all just feels a little soulless and plain. I blame him being from Phoebe's camp of sexless layer-makers. The color palette was really nice though, and those thigh high boots took me back to Fall 2010!

 

[Lola701]

Her walk looks dated.

You think so?
I think that her aura is not the same.
The fact that she is still doing the same antics at 50+ is quite tiring.
And also the fact that she has that same hair, same make up not matter the show. Her presence always feels like « la fois de trop ».

 

[Lola701]

He is a controversial designer in TFS based on the polarized comments. I think he had a moment at BV, but I never get what he has done at Burberry. Maybe I am shallow and don't have the good taste to appreciate his stuff but from the commercial perspective, I haven't seen anyone copy his Burberry supposing he has a big enough cult to create a trend.

Everybody is controversial on TFS, unless you are talking about the past (just take a look at every Olivier Theyskens discussions ) . Suddenly revisionism and nostalgia makes everybody praise what they didn’t like (people could make you believe that Frida Giannini was as great as Miuccia or Consuelo).
People are nostalgic about Burberry from the Milan years in general. So even Bailey who left Burberry in 2018 couldn’t compete with his own past.

 

[yslforever]

You think so?
I think that her aura is not the same.
The fact that she is still doing the same antics at 50+ is quite tiring.
And also the fact that she has that same hair, same make up not matter the show. Her presence always feels like « la fois de trop ».

Yes. She was the only one of the models moving her shoulders like that. She’s stuck in the 90s.

 

[TaylorBinque]

This feels very heavy. From styling to fit and actual fabric. I don't know. Some pieces are quite nice but it's doesn't give me Burberry. In fact, what I have problem with his Burberry is that I can't see the persona, the vision he goes. Maybe it's lost in the conversation with the suites or whatever. But obviously, the work he has done at BV also show how important your team has to be as well. Certainly he can design, no doubt about that, but his Burberry never hits strike.

 

[Kite]

The best one hes done so far, Hopefully the last one so he can leave on a high.

There is alot of subtle sexiness missing which he had nailed at Bottega. Thats what Girls want to wear. He needs more of that, everything is SO layered to the point you cant tell what is what.

 

[QuantumCouture]

Some of these pieces feel delightfully decadent. But then you have these overly padded, almost quilt-like silhouettes that verge on wearing your grandmother’s duvet. If it’s meant to be dramatic, I applaud the attempt; but drama must still flatter the wearer, not swallow them whole. And for the outerwear, let’s just say I can’t decide if I’m seeing sleek, sexy raincoats or a more literal attempt at waterproof armor. Some colors like the deep burgundy tones and those swirling motifs are quite sumptuous.

 

[BalkaniStaCouture]

Bad, very bad collection!

 

[Olaffo]

After last season’s trainwreck I happily welcomed this collection: amazing colours, good pieces to look at in outlets (as they’ll be super expensive provided they’ll make it to the stores in first place). Great outerwear, great casting and great music. It felt elevated and royal but restrained a bit in a few moments… Love Daniel and his work whether in Burberry or somewhere else.

 

[PDFSD]

style not com post on DL x BURBERRY :

ALSO, HE SAID HE FEELS GOOD AT BURBERRY AT THE MOMENT

 

[jeremydante]

Strength in design stride, much like the Christopher Bailey era days.
Good collection, let's hope they keep this up.