Burberry Menswear S/S 2022 London

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Phuel]

Riccardo paying massive tribute to Helmut. And done right: The influences are clearly Helmut’s— but Riccardo’s taken them to such ‘roided, macho Mad Max levels, I’m actually impressed with such nerves in such neutered times! Gorgeous casting of masculinity, and Paolo with a Manchurian queue— now that’s commitment!

(There's not a whiff of Burberry frankly, but who cares anymore.)

 

[GERGIN]

It’s great to see a more edited, bold, masculine collection that oozes the good old days of Ricardo at Givenchy.

I cannot get over how hot the 4th model is in the look book and I will give karma to anyone that can ID him for me!

 

[Ivancica]

This is not Burberry.

 

[marsnoop2]

This is not Burberry.

And I don't care one bit because this is the most exciting collection he's done since Burberry. It's just exciting to feel something from just looking at a collection.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Looks like he got tired of being on autopilot, glad that he didn't give a f*** about what Burberry should be and just did what he feels is right.

Faux Helmut Tisci is the best Tisci.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Really loving the Dune / Mad Max vibes from all of this. Give us more Tisci!!

 

[Lola701]

This time it’s go back to True Tisci and indeed, it’s very Helmut Lang.

I don’t find it particularly beautiful, desirable or even easily wearable but it’s strong and eye-catching. It gives a definitive message and I truly think that this can sell very well…

Riccardo is particularly lucky to still have that authority in streetwear, he is also lucky that Givenchy is a mess now and so, people will go for that.

It will be interesting to see what the commercial collection will look like and how everything is going to make sense in the Burberry universe (which is about practical separates after all).

Normally, I would hate the fact that he didn’t tried « to make it Burberry » but it’s usually a struggle of very complicated clothes. As over designed this might feel, it looks very natural for him.

I hope the womenswear will have the same sleeveless trenchs.

 

[Cute]

It’s great to see a more edited, bold, masculine collection that oozes the good old days of Ricardo at Givenchy.

I cannot get over how hot the 4th model is in the look book and I will give karma to anyone that can ID him for me!

https://instagram.com/emanuel_teodosiu

 

[jeanclaude]

He wants to be relevant again...through copying from Helmut Lang??

 

[Olaffo]

This is hysterical; just a few days ago getting some raincoat one of the SA told me excited they renewed Riccardo's contract. I just showed him Givenchy SS 2015 and sight.

He does not care about collections, monogram, collaborations, perfume etc. He is approving design team's projects and sending pictures from the gym. That's all he done for past few years and that is what he will continue to do. Clothes are less than desirable, heavy, ridiculous (saw trench with down jacket sleeves which is year zero at any fashion school) and totally merchandised. Nothing more to be expected tbh.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

Solid. Not amazing, but after last seasons debacle I will take it. Throwing this out there, but if Lang (the company) hadn’t shuttered their runway business last year, I think RT would benefit and do well as a resident designer for the label much like what Shayne Oliver did in 2018. It would be an interesting collaboration and worth exploring.

 

[dior_couture1245]

I hate it.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

I hate it.

I am genuinely curious here, why do you hate the collection? I found the lines/shapes strong and the collection as a whole cohesive. While certainly ripping off Lang’s aesthetic, I found it to be well thought out and balanced. He was not trying to hard or pushing a narrative that does not exist, rather IMO he presented a practical, stylish, and fashionable set of masculine staples with just enough flair to keep it interesting. A very engaged collection from Riccardo, finally something of substance.

 

[Frederic01]

He is a brilliant designer, but unfortunately he has proven both at Givenchy and now at Burberry, that he is not quite willing or capable enough to interpret the archives of the brand he is designing for. Tisci's aesthetic will always overpower the codes of the brand he is working for, which is both a positive and a negative depending on how you look at it.

In this collection I am seeing Rick Owens and Helmut Lang, a lot of recycled Givenchy by Tisci ideas, but not Burberry. He wants to be a Phoebe Philo, washing away everything that came before him and imposing his aesthetic, but unfortunately Burberry has a much stronger heritage and has maintained a strong social-cultural presence throughout history than Celine. Burberry actually represents something very visceral in the collective consciousness. Christopher Bailey really touched on throughout his tenure.

 

[TianCouture]

I didn't want it 4-6 years ago and I still don't.

 

[Lola701]

He is a brilliant designer, but unfortunately he has proven both at Givenchy and now at Burberry, that he is not quite willing or capable enough to interpret the archives of the brand he is designing for. Tisci's aesthetic will always overpower the codes of the brand he is working for, which is both a positive and a negative depending on how you look at it.

In this collection I am seeing Rick Owens and Helmut Lang, a lot of recycled Givenchy by Tisci ideas, but not Burberry. He wants to be a Phoebe Philo, washing away everything that came before him and imposing his aesthetic, but unfortunately Burberry has a much stronger heritage and has maintained a strong social-cultural presence throughout history than Celine. Burberry actually represents something very visceral in the collective consciousness. Christopher Bailey really touched on throughout his tenure.

I think that on the contrary at Givenchy he had that perfect balance of respecting the heritage and infuse his personality.
Givenchy’s heritage is rather elusive tbh. It’s about a blouse, a little black dress, a certain idea of aristocratic elegance or chic. Riccardo managed to send out commercial collections that were HF enough to put Givenchy back on the map but commercial enough to sell.

What I think is astonishing is how suddenly it’s complicated for him to do commercial clothes at Burberry.

He never did so many complicated clothes at Givenchy. I wonder if he is lost without the heritage of a couture house.
Unlike Nicolas for example who doesn’t have the heritage of a Couture house but who is pushing himself in terms of creativity or proposition, this feels like going backwards.

His Burberry cannot be like Bailey’s and I would be mad if he tried to emulate that but it has the potential to be something else…

I’m waiting for the womenswear…

 

[perhydrol]

Tisci's Burberry has been a tragedy. This collection is literally his tenure at Givenchy in a nutshell, just incredibly dumbed down. However, Riccardo seems not to be able to realized that it's 2021, not 2012 and this stuff will not make it yet again. While I get the sense of being consistent in terms of aesthetic, he doesn't seem to be interested in any kind of evolution and it's rather sad.

 

[Lola701]

This is hysterical; just a few days ago getting some raincoat one of the SA told me excited they renewed Riccardo's contract. I just showed him Givenchy SS 2015 and sight.

Not surprising. It’s cheaper to keep him now than to change again à direction with a new CD.
They are a bit like Celine. They have invested so much (the stores, the creative direction…etc) and while the response is lukewarm in general, they are doing quite well in Asia, which is the driving market RN.