Burberry S/S 2023 London

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Overindulgence]

It's so Tisci that I can't help but enjoy the collection anyways. The Tisci woman and man always look so powerful. He's one of the few still designing with a clear woman and man in mind (emphasis on woman and man, not girl and boy). It's not even worth talking about whether or not it fits Burberry/feels British considering he will definitely be out..I hope he ends up at a house where he can go full-on Tisci at.

 

[LadyJunon]

It's kind of badass to make an unsellable collection before leaving the house. I hope he pulls a Theyskens and relaunches his eponymous label.

 

[Machinegumm]

Ah, yes, crotch-windows, that's what's been missing from my life. Thanks Ric.

 

[Deleted member 1957]

The only hint of Burberry are the two suits which also look like uniform for a doorman service at a fancy apartment.

 

[Vitamine W]

Some of these came straight out of Lilo's collection for Ungaro many moons ago.
The blue atrocity over the faux lace white turtleneck jumpsuit (62?) is one of the fugliest looks that have ever etched itself into my retinas.

 

[Frederic01]

Those lace gowns were quite beautiful but felt out of place on a Burberry runway somehow?

The rest of the collection looked like a "Best Of" Tisci signatures with various ideas that weren't explored thoroughly enough either by choice or by act of rebellion.

 

[jeanclaude]

This is verging into Alessandro Michele´s ugliness level. Those "chap skirts", the flip-flops with chain details, the logo-lace, the protruding minibags (or pockets) around the hip area...all of this belong in another "Freak Show" by Gucci.

 

[RaisinBoy]

I really liked the last season, and was hopeful they turned a new leaf at Burberry.
This is too cheap for me, sorry to say. This is where i feel Tisci is more of a Moschino, Dolce and Trashanna type of designer and makes me sad.

 

[reesewu]

Some looks are downright comical and overdesigned. To go from the glorious F/W 2022 to this is a major downfall. Even if it were his last collection for the house, didn’t he want to go out with a bang? Well maybe it was a bang and it signifies how he bombed his tenure.

He should’ve just committed to the bourgeois dressing side of his aesthetic instead of insisting that there’s still more to his proposition of street style because the latter found him stretching so much, the clothes look like a hodgepodge of ideas that don’t stick.

 

[tctra]

he wants to move edgier and edgier but this is so NOT the spirit of the brand - AT ALL. And it doesn't work

 

[Nomar]

Probably his most Givenchy-esque collection to date. I echo the other sentiments here, it's a solid collection for him but not for Burberry. That eye print should have never seen the light of day though.

 

[RaisinBoy]

Burbenchy

 

[WAVES]

his worst collection ever. yes there are a few nice pieces (maybe even better seen separately) but overall, mediocre for a designer of his calibre.

the last 3 black gowns are exquisite though.

Tisci amore what’s good?

 

[Norden]

its a terrible and cynical collection. Hes so serious, no quick wit and zero connection to the heritage of the brand. what a mismatch this whole thing has been.
It might be an okay collection for him, but for the brand its an absolute disaster. there is nothing here to buy.

He has completely hollowed out this brand, with his soulless collections, redundant rebranding (that generic high way typeface) and unimaginative store designs and merchandising. Not that Burberry was fabulous to begin with, but it has so much potential when done right! At its best it connects with culture and music, at its worst its a checkprint on lace...

 

[Lola701]

his worst collection ever. yes there are a few nice pieces (maybe even better seen separately) but overall, mediocre for a designer of his calibre.

the last 3 black gowns are exquisite though.

Tisci amore what’s good?

Those last three gowns would have been fabulous during Couture week! Literally!

Such a waste….

 

[RaisinBoy]

The blow-up pieces are embarrassing after Moschino?!?!? Why these gimmicks???

 

[RaisinBoy]

Those last three gowns would have been fabulous during Couture week! Literally!

Such a waste….

Loved those as well!

 

[YohjiAddict]

If he wanted to go out with the most awful/unsellable collection possible, well congrats. It’s very “mid-life crisis is my passion” in the way that Alessandro’s work is, just trying to be messy like the current crop of CSM graduates are but that aesthetic has nothing to do with this very “square” brand. There’s very little to salvage from this mess, mainly the leather coats and capes.

 

[disco54]

That was atrocious. I won’t miss him at Burberry.

Same here. Good riddance.