Burberry S/S 2025 London

[LadyJunon]

 

[PDFSD]

This better be better then the set up so far ...it's giving school day trip at the museum workshop.

 

[HelgaZ]

Beautiful calm colors, but done very carefully to please the majority of consumers.

 

[signifier]

Failed again unfortunately. There is no voice. Nobody knows what Burberry wants to be. Sales (according to that BOF article) are down about 22% this year. That set looked like a St Martins graduation show and the feathers on the jackets followed by sequins and graphic scarves looked like a total mess. I think he's had his chance and he seems out of his depth and lost for ideas. His pay masters must be losing patience.

 

[Olaffo]

I liked it but it would be understatement to say it was undercooked. Some of the menswear trenches or jackets were up to my taste and I’d definitely would like to buy them but only in outlet as the pricing point will, again, be insane. Womenswear quite uneventful, not so many bags or accessories which is weird giving their focus on leather goods. Feels like Daniel is already looking for another job…

 

[PDFSD]

Confused presentation/point of view and bland as mashed potato without gravy, lots of overdesign, some washed out leather and wax faded seem to late to the 90´s Miu Miu Chloe Balenciaga City bags vintage decay revival mood, the belted waist and power shoulder on men is so outed and cringe hard to make feel cool , odd shoes & overworked bags design.

Honestly it feel like its Mad Max going to the office as he/she moved back to the city this time London.

 

[matheus_s]

just like I always says... NO WORK, NO SHOP

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

56:21 sean mcgirr grrr

 

[LadyJunon]

While it's obvious that Lee has checked out at this point, I'll admit that this is a very pleasant, calming collection to look at. There's almost a Margiela-like sensibility to it with the nods of utilitarian clothing and Japanese deconstruction.

The issue is that if Lee leaves, it will be very difficult to find a decent replacement. Most industry veterans would only accept a position at an accessible luxury brand unless given full carte-blanche. I wouldn't be surprised if Burberry ends up axing their runway collections altogether.

 

[Lola701]

It’s probably the best collection in LFW, his most interesting collection as the CD of Burberry and probably the most underwhelming or weak collection of his career so far.
It’s all very confusing because the womenswear was good, more ambitious than ever. It had an utilitarian vibe as always but the Mongolian fur trims were too much. A lot of it looked over-designed, over-detailed!

The menswear was weak and bring the whole thing down.
The accessories were perfect I must say.

And I must say that the confusion that Burberry has in terms of strategy was quite visible in this collection.
When you see the amount of canvas of Gabardine, it could indicate good pricing. The. When you see leather, intricate embroideries, it screams luxury.

It seems like he is trying to please everybody and the result is that I don’t think it was strong enough.

I can see pieces that could look good, being pushed on campaigns and celebrities but is it going to save Burberry?

I’m still rooting for Lee though.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

I was a big big big fan of his resort and last show, wtf is this?
The only items I like are the trench coat dresses with the cape sleeves but cut in chiffon, that's a real design, the rest are very Hackey Burberry outlet.

Also having Liu Wen close the show is just a desperate move to grab the Chinese market, she is a Chanel ambassador, a Prada ad girl, and even recently a YSL ad girl and Rabanne, yes I know she is a supermodel, but create your own story with the casting

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

I hate the stupid set, that colour green was there for no reason, unlike BV's green

 

[VogueDisciple93]

Last week the brand’s stocks were down over 70% vs. a year a go, mostly over concerns that they cannot right the ship and this collection did absolutely nothing to comfort those fears. There was 1 good jacket. No great bag(s), no decent shoes, not even a good sunglass or earring. If I worked for the brand and watched this I’d be anticipating layoffs by end of year.

It’s really strange that they refuse to pivot and are steering the ship full-steam ahead directly into the visible iceberg.

 

[plentyofhorns]

who’s gonna buy this lol

 

[rowjellies]

He’s so checked out at this point. I give him another year or less.

 

[disco54]

Burberry Prorsum under Bailey was 100000x better than this mess

 

[grimm]

He’s so checked out at this point. I give him another year or less.

I give him a week

 

[90sfan]

Poor Lee - guess he’s trying to re-do his Bottega, but it’s not the right time, and he also made it way too complicated and way too dull at the same time (sounds like an oxymoron, but that’s what it amounts to).
Feels like a horrible/dulled down copy of his Bottega work (as if it was done by Proenza Schouler who are the most untalented copy cats lol).
Sad atmosphere at the show too.. was there in person. Something of a funeral, to be honest. The green set didn't help… casting neither.

 

[Living Proof]

Much like his last 2 collections, a mixed bag. There are some fab looks that remind me of some of the mid-00s Junya collections, but also some severely underdeveloped bizarre ideas that didn’t go anywhere. I feel like (and have heard that) he doesn’t have a trusted team close to him, the styling is obviously merch-minded yet the editing isn’t precise enough, so the collection as a whole seem half baked.

Still some of the best we’ve seen this week though. I won’t insult him and compare this to graduate work, I’ve been at enough crits to know the difference.

 

[NoInvite]

Clothing wise I find it quite charming and colors were beautiful. But there's no way this will help them.
It's all too niche and to show in that space is not helping either. If they want everything at that price point, they must rethink the strategy to put the brand back on the map.