Burberry S/S 2025 London

[plentyofhorns]

Burberry Prorsum under Bailey was 100000x better than this mess

Grailed has so many amazing Burberry prorsum jackets at crazy low prices🫣

 

[Grets]

The way Lee comes out at the end, intentionally pulling his turtleneck up, trying so hard to be like Mum Phoebe

 

[Phuel]

I liked it but it would be understatement to say it was undercooked. Some of the menswear trenches or jackets were up to my taste and I’d definitely would like to buy them but only in outlet as the pricing point will, again, be insane. Womenswear quite uneventful, not so many bags or accessories which is weird giving their focus on leather goods. Feels like Daniel is already looking for another job…

A few of the men's trenches are nice. But absolutely not paying the offensive retail price for them. I’d rather spend that money at Tom Ford.

The opening men’s calvary jacket is very Christopher Bailey, as is the cast of highest-cheekboned multiracial high elves. But even a scattering of Christopher's Prorsum, along with Christopher's brand of casting can’t save the lacklustre offering. It all seems like such an admission that his Dr Seuss aesthetic just doesn’t translate to what made Burberry such an effortless titanic success under Christopher.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[LadyJunon]

Slightly off topic, but does anyone know what the pricing was like for 00s/early 10s Prorsum? And Tisci's Burberry?

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Can I say some of this looks good without anyone getting mad at me

 

[LadyJunon]

Can I say some of this looks good without anyone getting mad at me

It's not MGC's Dior, so go ahead.

 

[tourbillions]

its like the suits decided they want tiscis burberry back so lee re-designed the most basic looks from tisci era. i guess this will be his last for burberry. I bet even he wasnt excited about the collection

 

[reese06]

It seems a bit half baked but I find this to be his best collection at Burberry in terms of the direction the brand should be headed.

It’s a bit NG at balenciaga and a bit Burberry Prorsum however lacking in ambition.

With all that said, I really enjoy this.

 

[Phuel]

Slightly off topic, but does anyone know what the pricing was like for 00s/early 10s Prorsum? And Tisci's Burberry?

Late-2000 Prorsum pricing was more than a bargain by today’s ridiculously inflated pricing standards. I specifically remember paying under $3000 for the trenches and coats; less than $1000 for boots; $500 for shirts…

BTW, the closing jewel on Wen is just simply, supremely, straightup gorgeous. Too little, too late tho.

 

[Olaffo]

Late-2000 Prorsum pricing was more than a bargain by today’s ridiculously inflated pricing standards. I specifically remember paying under $3000 for the trenches and coats; less than $1000 for boots; $500 for shirts…

my fav example of Burberry’s pricing insanity is trench coat: Prorsum (1500£), Tisci (1700-2300£) and Lee (2500£ +)
another example are shirts: (300-500£), Tisci (printed silk 1200£+), Lee (1500£ and up).
Trousers from Lee’s collection are around 2500-2700 £, womenswear bags starting from $ 2500 up. We can go on and on. Biggest spike was from Prorsum to Tisci (largely due to Gobetti’s greed and delulu), less between Tisci and Lee (price adjustments up by 300-500 £ on average across all the products lines.

 

[style_expert]

The way Lee comes out at the end, intentionally pulling his turtleneck up, trying so hard to be like Mum Phoebe

Oh! I thought he was merely hiding in shame for what he had just shown.
The clothes definitely mirrored the inexcusable set, altogether perfectly displaying Burberry's downfall.

 

[MyNameIs]

I don't hate the collection, but the presentation (set, lighting, etc), makes it look so sad and third-rate. I get that they're ~indie, but chic and sophistication would go a long way to making these clothes look desirable.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

Can I say some of this looks good without anyone getting mad at me

Not at all. You’re probably referring to the pieces that look like 00s Marc Jacobs with a pinch of Balenciaga by NG thrown in.

 

[GoldenPetals]

It does seem like it's on the verge of something brilliant but stops just short of it.

 

[LadyJunon]

Late-2000 Prorsum pricing was more than a bargain by today’s ridiculously inflated pricing standards. I specifically remember paying under $3000 for the trenches and coats; less than $1000 for boots; $500 for shirts…

BTW, the closing jewel on Wen is just simply, supremely, straightup gorgeous. Too little, too late tho.

my fav example of Burberry’s pricing insanity is trench coat: Prorsum (1500£), Tisci (1700-2300£) and Lee (2500£ +)
another example are shirts: (300-500£), Tisci (printed silk 1200£+), Lee (1500£ and up).
Trousers from Lee’s collection are around 2500-2700 £, womenswear bags starting from $ 2500 up. We can go on and on. Biggest spike was from Prorsum to Tisci (largely due to Gobetti’s greed and delulu), less between Tisci and Lee (price adjustments up by 300-500 £ on average across all the products lines.

That's more reasonable than I thought and they could definitely do well with this pricing range today. It's more elevated than Coach and US luxury, while being more competitive than the likes of Gucci and LV. Learning that the core of the price hike actually happened during Tisci's tenure made me start to wonder whether Lee was the actual problem. I dug up their Annual Report Archive and it gave me this:

Spoiler: Burberry's Revenue from 2002/03

Year (April to March)	Revenue (in GBP)	CD (date of release of debut collection)	CEO (date of appointement)
2002/03	594mn	Christopher Bailey	Rose Marie Bravo
2003/04	676mn
2004/05	715mn
2005/06	743mn
2006/07	850mn		Angela Ahrendts
2007/08	995mn
2008/09	1,20bn
2009/10	1,28bn
2010/11	1,28bn
2011/12	1,86bn
2012/13	2,00bn
2013/14:	2,33bn		Christopher Bailey
2014/15	2,52bn
2015/16	2,52bn
2016/17:	2,77bn		Marco Gobbetti
2017/18:	2,73bn
2018/19:	2,72bn	Riccardo Tisci
2019/20:	2,63bn
2020/21:	2,34bn
2021/22:	2,83bn		Jonathan Akeroyd
2022/23:	3,09bn
2023/24:	2,97bn	Daniel Lee

TLDR:
- revenue rose consistently until 2013 (Ahrendts' departure)
- rose at a slower pace until 2017 (Gobbetti's arrival)
- started falling during Tisci-Gobbetti era until the pandemic
- rose again in post-pandemic to the point that Tisci's last two years were the brand's record highest

 

[j02215]

not enough to retain the traditional Burberry customers, and not enough to win over new audiences.

I feel bad for him though - it’s an ok collection on its own for LFW if it is not Burberry.

 

[Alquimista]

I like most of it sorry guys Nothing new, even repetition of errors like the damn zippers but I'm not hating it.

And from what tfs write about Burberry, I don't think Lee can save it. The problem is larger than him.

edit: it does not feel like a summer collection at ALL.

 

[Phuel]

That's more reasonable than I thought and they could definitely do well with this pricing range today. It's more elevated than Coach and US luxury, while being more competitive than the likes of Gucci and LV. Learning that the core of the price hike actually happened during Tisci's tenure made me start to wonder whether Lee was the actual problem. I dug up their Annual Report Archive and it gave me this:

Spoiler: Burberry's Revenue from 2002/03

Year (April to March)	Revenue (in GBP)	CD (date of release of debut collection)	CEO (date of appointement)
2002/03	594mn	Christopher Bailey	Rose Marie Bravo
2003/04	676mn
2004/05	715mn
2005/06	743mn
2006/07	850mn		Angela Ahrendts
2007/08	995mn
2008/09	1,20bn
2009/10	1,28bn
2010/11	1,28bn
2011/12	1,86bn
2012/13	2,00bn
2013/14:	2,33bn		Christopher Bailey
2014/15	2,52bn
2015/16	2,52bn
2016/17:	2,77bn		Marco Gobbetti
2017/18:	2,73bn
2018/19:	2,72bn	Riccardo Tisci
2019/20:	2,63bn
2020/21:	2,34bn
2021/22:	2,83bn		Jonathan Akeroyd
2022/23:	3,09bn
2023/24:	2,97bn	Daniel Lee

TLDR:
- revenue rose consistently until 2013 (Ahrendts' departure)
- rose at a slower pace until 2017 (Gobbetti's arrival)
- started falling during Tisci-Gobbetti era until the pandemic
- rose again in post-pandemic to the point that Tisci's last two years were the brand's record highest

Spoiler LOL Very insightful.

Riccardo’s Burberry started on a promising flair, then unfortunately fizzled quickly and seemed… lost. But that’s also not all his fault since the handlers wanted everything, from outlet merch to high fashion, to be under one label, and all shown together on the runway. I remember looking for a new dufflecoat, and that Season only a very basic model was offered under the mainline, and only in black. The SA was doing her hardest to convince me how covetable it was with “black is so in this year!” LMFAO Has black ever not been "in"…??? Poor girl looked so defeated when I walked away.

More than the inflated mainline pricing for what is essentially very minimum effort in both materials and construction under Daniel, is the ridiculously inflated pricing for their basic, consumer fodder: the scarves and all things Nova Check. No fashion-devotee would touch those scarves; they’re for the casual fashion fan that covets status to display. And to price the most basic of basics so high, so out of reach of the casual fashion fans, was pure greed that deserved the failing desirability of the brand. This collection and even the last, is his handler controlling the creative direction to remind the customer of the brand’s better days: Christopher’s Prorsum. It’s an apology for what’s happening to this brand.