Burberry S/S 2025 London

[tricotineacetat]

I was actually quite suprised to find out how well Tisci did in his last two years, especially with how poorly received his tenure was. He actually managed to get Burberry to the £3bn milestone.

That aside, Lee and Tisci have very different skill-sets when it comes to the design of a collection. Lee is more trained in sportswear with a heavy focus on accessory design. Tisci, despite his strong hip-hop influences, has several couture collections under his belt. Obviously, it shows in their work. Tisci's Burberry was more precious and cutting-edge, while Lee's Burberry is more grounded and practical. Unfortunately for Lee, his work can't quite demand Tisci-level pricing.

I never cared for Bailey's SFW parody of Ford's Gucci, but his shows became a special type of torturous when each one became poorly filmed 20-minutes spectacles with tonedeaf live performances. Tisci's and Lee's shows were much more watchable.

Burberry is the only major British player in the industry, and they're trying to use that to add an artificial layer of desirability and importance to their products. The issue is that, outside of Kate Middleton and punk, "Britishness" is very abstract to market to international audiences. To add to that, London might not be the best environment for lofty luxury ambitions. McQueen, McCartney, Westwood all moved their press engines elsewhere. If Burberry really wants a larger audience, they should consider moving their shows to Paris or back to Milan.

As for Lee, he's probably past the point of no return. Even if a miracle happens and the next year brings in stellar results, between the negative press, lowering sales and corporate meddling, I wouldn't be suprised if he retires from fashion at the end of his contract. Burberry's next designer could embrace its roots in utilitarian clothing and a branch in chav culture, but it takes a certain taste level and sense of humour to elevate those codes to a credible high fashion sensibility.

That’s exactly the issue I’m having with him - He might be doing commercial, practical clothing that are easy to wear and understand, but they don’t have the intricacy, depth and refinement that such high prices and clothes that appear as casual as that would command for - By comparison with his Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy's designs are more ambitioned and refined.

I feel like this collection is entirely forgettable and banal where Tisci (as confusing as his match with Burberry was) would have at least offered you something interesting to look at. Everything about this feels as department store friendly as it can get!

 

[velvetandsilk]

my fav example of Burberry’s pricing insanity is trench coat: Prorsum (1500£), Tisci (1700-2300£) and Lee (2500£ +)
another example are shirts: (300-500£), Tisci (printed silk 1200£+), Lee (1500£ and up).
Trousers from Lee’s collection are around 2500-2700 £, womenswear bags starting from $ 2500 up. We can go on and on. Biggest spike was from Prorsum to Tisci (largely due to Gobetti’s greed and delulu), less between Tisci and Lee (price adjustments up by 300-500 £ on average across all the products lines.

Since I saw the production prices, I have a theory that currently in the fashion world there is a belief that those who know should buy on sale, where most of the margin is still preserved. And the market is tested and accustomed to how high it can be set. For 20-30 years fewer and fewer people sew at home or go to a tailor, more do not know how much a meter of a given fabric costs. What is difficult and what is easy to sew.

 

[donyan]

if this had been his first collection, and with 40% lower pricing it would have been a great start, something to build upon.

 

[Nimsay]

that opening mens piece is a DH dupe from like 2007 - there is a safari jacket and a sport shirt with epaulets just like this....

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I think it's pretty sad when you see a designer who's almost there but can't quite put the finishing touches to what could have been a really good collection.

There's one thing which was bugging me, and that's the setting for the show. It couldn't scream ‘we've run out of money’ any more than that.

Lee is the one who, in my opinion, has made the most effort to rework the house codes and bring something new to them. On the other hand, most of these efforts end in failure.

The most interesting looks are those that are reminiscent of his work at Bottega Veneta and that distance themselves the most from Burberry...

You can sense that he's restricted, you can sense the need to tick all the boxes to please the executives and merchandisers, you can sense the brand falling apart, you can sense that the menswear is clearly an afterthought. You can sense a lot of things, but not the right ones.

Burberry doesn't deserve this type of designer and clearly doesn't know what to do with them: so they should lower their ambitions and be what they are meant to be. A British Coach.

 

[ecnerretneerg]

You’d sweat your t*ts off wearing anything from this collection during the s/s months

 

[Lola701]

On the contrary - I think the lack of Britishness has been, in large part, THE problem facing Burberry since Bailey’s departure.

Maybe the issue should be how to define Britishness in the 2020´s.
I found Riccardo’s vision of Burberry quite fitting in essence to the spirit of London. It wasn’t necessarily British but very London to me. Even if it lacked a focused vision, it was always about the duality of formality and streetwear. That’s what for me London is. That was maybe a representation by LFW’s biggest brand of the essence of British fashion.

I think Lee’s vision of Burberry was very British. It’s not what aspirational fashion from a British brand meant in the 2000’s and 2010’s but it’s utilitarian, it has that spleen, that quirk and that freshness that I find is quite British.

And in reality, Burberry under Bailey wasn’t really British from the moment he presented in LFW. The romantism of his work that people like to associate to Burberry died with fall 2009. He definetly had hits at LFW but it was also at that time that his vision was challenged and felt redundant. The formula of belted jackets, seasonal prints, platform shoes and all felt tired.

He then after the merging of all the lines, went for a more casual route, streetwear inspired and Burberry became more of the big advertiser show to go than the leading fashion and retail voice it was.

I think Bailey’s vision of Britishness wasn’t the moment anymore. Suki watherhouse, Cara Delevigne, The Eddy « I don’t remember his name » kind of aesthetic didn’t match with the Zeitgeist of a Britishness that was pushing forward a more diverse cultural scene…

You’d sweat your t*ts off wearing anything from this collection during the s/s months

The good thing is that it arrives in stores in February so it leaves 4 months before the « swearing your t*ts off » days starts, to wear it.

 

[PDFSD]

To sum it all up : It's just overworked and under performed.

 

[Living Proof]

Maybe we outta just calm down for 2 seconds, Burberry is not going into administration anytime soon and Lee won’t be leading the BA course at Westminster by next year. They will eventually find a way to push the scarves and coats to new moneys in developing countries, and Lee will go somewhere else to make trousers with too many zips, everyone will sort themselves out.

 

[yslforever]

I tolerate most of it too, because it feels Prorsum. But that’s just me being magnanimous because the issue has deeper roots than Lee; the management is lost, he is miscast, his sharp aesthetic doesn’t have an ounce of romanticism, while Burberry should be a romantic but practical brand, encompassing Londonness but verging on cottage-core too.

 

[LadyJunon]

 

[Phuel]

^^^ LMFAO …A scene right out of AbFab/Bruno/Zoolander. Down to the clumsiness, stumbling, comical fail of it all.

(That Burberry security is way tighter than the clueless one that attempted to protect a former president recently. I’ll give them that.)

 

[bennyboy]

nice collection, but the menswear looks bit like early mcqueen menswear

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

I still remember their moment in 2006 (Spring 2007) show

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

God I miss Peta

 

[Artlover30]

I actually don't hate this. It's creative enough and also a bit conservative.
Maybe he could have been more expressive, but it's not too bad.