Buyers Reports F/W 09.10

[kimair]

starting with new york...
wwd / february 23, 2009

Retailers Get a Sense of Optimism from Fall Shows

If only the economy were better.

Retailers came to New York Fashion Week sheepishly, knowing their budgets were down and expecting the mood to be somber. Many have slashed their open-to-buy by 20 percent or more after last season’s double-digit sales declines.

But most concluded the week in a reflective, positive mood, despite repeated days of depressing economic news that raised further concerns over whether consumers would even be shopping for clothes come fall, and hopeful about what they saw — spirited collections, a crop of new talent with promise that put the stamp of individuality on the clothes, and some sense of commercial reality.

That bad rap that designers can often be outrageously priced with impractical styles didn’t seem to apply for fall.

“New York designers are not out of touch,” contended Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice president and director of designer merchandising for Nordstrom Inc. “I was impressed overall with what they turned out.…These are tough times, no question about that, and that business is challenging. For me, it just means being a razor-sharp editor and finding the best New York has to offer.”

This season, Kalinsky said, designers showed “a lot of product that looks really good and prices that reflect the intrinsic value that the customer is going to be looking for. I haven’t seen all the prices everywhere, but a good designer knows what’s going on in the world and needs to use creativity to get consumers shopping and buyers buying.”

“Ultimately…there was great balance between inspired clothes and realistic clothes,” said Nicole Fischelis, vice president and fashion director at Macy’s Inc. “It’s a lot about fusion — the rough and refined, feminine and rock ’n’ roll, layering and unmatching, tailored with feminine, a bohemian attitude, taking plaids to a new level, winter floral mixes and lots of animal prints.”

“I arrived expecting a depressing atmosphere [but] the shows were very positive and optimistic. Everyone kept the same energy,” said Sarah Lerfel, buyer for Colette in Paris. “I keep adding new names. It’s important to support creativity. I don’t work with budgets and I’ll continue to work the same way.”

“Challenging times seem to bring out the best in Americans and many of us are actually energized despite the prevailing news,” said Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation for Bergdorf Goodman. “We’re inspired enough to build new tiers into our business. We found many of the designers delivered some of their most focused collections to date. We particularly applaud the younger guard for both their courage as well as their ability to combine value with desirable design.”

She said Bergdorf’s was keen on one of the season’s prevailing messages. “It’s the new strong woman — broad-shouldered, fierce, confident and looking like she can handle anything.”

“The new guard stepped it up by honing in on their own personal aesthetic and presenting collections that had a strong voice and were very focused. Jason Wu, Brian Reyes, Phi, Thakoon and Peter Som all exemplified this,” said Ann Watson, vice president and fashion director at Henri Bendel. “It is clear these designers have gotten to really know their customers better and are giving her what she loves.”

Though the consensus was the season rated an eight or eight-and-a-half on a scale of 10, a few saw too much darkness on the runways. “Is all black going to help the economy?” Marc Jacobs was quoted as saying.

Watson agreed there were too many dark clothes. “The customer needs and wants color now more than ever,” she said.

Others saw the concern of a world in economic turmoil permeating the mood.

“There was not much energy at the fashion shows. I think the designers are a little bit afraid,” observed Alla Verber, vice president of Mercury Distribution in Russia. While she did say she loved the collections of J.Mendel, Ralph Rucci, Donna Karan and Michael Kors, she felt there could have been more retailers to appreciate them. “There were less people. I understand some people didn’t travel because travel expenses were cut. Overall, the mood of clothes in New York is not the best. Everyone talks about disaster.

“However, I think it makes people feel better knowing that everyone around the world is in this together.”

Retailers agreed the standout collections of the season were Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, and among the relative newcomers, Jason Wu and Thakoon.

Here’s more on how the retailers viewed the collections:

Ann Watson, vice president and fashion director at Henri Bendel
Jason Wu and Peter Som were “a breath of fresh air. Each of their collections showcased a mix of colors and patterns executed with a refreshing light hand.” In general for the week, “fashion went into four camps: the ‘aggressive warrior’ emphasizing tough, chic fashion and black leather for a head-on approach to these tough times; the ‘eclectic gypsy’ with printed chiffon dresses and chunky tweed knits for those [contemplating] a walk-about; the ‘refined, elegant lady’ with a covered-up look like high-neck blouses, draped jersey dresses and longer lengths, and ‘the fashion optimist’ who loves color and the Eighties silhouette with big shoulders and full skirts and will not let the current climate get her down.”

Other key trends, as cited by Watson, were: the statement necklace, including Kors’ oversize bicycle chain and Lee Angel’s crystal-encrusted metal necks; status scarves by Marc Jacobs, as well as clutches, wide belts, lace tights, shoulder pads, black leather and skinny leggings; draped jersey dresses; “electric colored” cocktail dresses; short swingy skirts; capes, and strong-shouldered, tailored jackets.

Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice president and director of designer merchandising at Nordstrom
“Marc Jacobs was a feast for the eyes and a tonic for the spirit. There were so many great ideas and clothes here. It was sensory overload of the best kind.” Kalinsky also cited Kors for reworking basics and making them ultramodern, ultraluxe and full of sex appeal; Thakoon for a chic, sophisticated collection, including gray coats, tuxedo shirtdresses and simple black skirt suits; Alexander Wang’s tailoring, sexy dresses and leggings, and Jason Wu’s focused approach, despite all his post-inauguration exposure, with “beautiful clothes for women of any age who appreciate quality and good taste.”

Sarah Lerfel, buyer for Colette, Paris
“There’s a very Eighties inspiration, with Marc Jacobs of course, and lots of strong shoulders in many collections.” She also cited futuristic fabrics, at Rodarte and Proenza Schouler in particular, and biker jackets highly visible during the week, like at Alexander Wang. “This is the style of jacket that will be strong for this winter. There are still leather leggings, and Eighties leggings in stretch fabrics. We will carry William Rast. I really liked how they treated the denim and I liked the shoulders in the collections. We will also work with Alexander Wang and Phillip Lim.”

Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman
“Our list of loves is fortunately long — Alexander Wang, Rodarte, Narciso Rodriguez, Marc Jacobs, Jason Wu, Victoria Beckham, Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, Donna Karan, Thakoon, Rag & Bone and a special thanks to Phillip Lim for all those rockin’ romantic items that we want to wear right now.”

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director at Neiman Marcus
“We’re absolutely charmed by Jason Wu’s prints and beautiful details. The polished looks that defined Oscar de la Renta and Michael Kors are what women will be looking for this fall. We loved Diane von Furstenberg with all the cozy knits and great items layered on top of each other. And certainly Marc Jacobs for all his fall color; Narciso Rodriguez with his razor-sharp jackets; Donna Karan, wow, what an amazing sexy, sensual collection — the clothes women will be superexcited to put into their wardrobes.” Key trends cited by Downing were shoulder play, leggings, pencil skirts, narrow pants, dresses, comfy knits and animal and graphic prints.

“And color is certainly important. There was a little more black and gray than is necessary. We have to remember that customer who is in Los Angeles and Miami and all through the south. Color is very emotional and can be part of why women buy.…As we go into this uncharted territory, great items are going to be very important. Designers did a great job working in great items.”

Colleen Sherin, fashion market director at Saks Fifth Avenue
“The overall mood has really been one of optimism, joy and hope for the future. This is not the season for somber fashion. The use of color, pops of neon brights and jewel tones really created that optimistic feeling. Many of the collections offered polished investment dressing where you could see the quality and the longevity.…There was a feeling of confident dressing offering protection, security and reassurance,” embodied in black leather, a plethora of leggings, cozy textured knits, cocooning shapes and fabrications. Sherin cited Donna Karan for “wonderful” investment pieces for the modern woman; Kors’ “snappy take” on classic American sportswear with pops of neon brights; Marc Jacobs’ “good old Eighties references”; Derek Lam’s sensual draping and furs; Rag & Bone’s long, lean silhouettes, vests, leggings, tailored jackets and shirtings, and Vera Wang’s pared-down, understated sophistication.

Barbara Atkin, vice president of fashion direction at Canada’s Holt Renfrew
The designers showed collections “that were bold and vibrant with lots of choices that had a strong focus on individual items to be worn creatively with a do-it-my-way personal dress code. We saw lots of refreshing color and novelty treatments such as sequins, embroidery and novelty prints. Luxury materials like cashmere, leather and fur looked important and worth investing in. I also liked the return to the great fall classics like tweed and plaid, which were remixed with more precious fabrics for a fresher look. The aggressive shoulder seen on jackets will be the important feature that changes the way we look at silhouettes and just might be the singular most important detail to get customers back into the stores to buy.”

Also on Holt Renfrew’s to-buy list: bright coats; leather, from blouson jackets to skinny pants and skirts; knitwear, especially the sweater coat; fur vests, and short day and cocktail dresses. Atkin said New York’s standout collections were Marc Jacobs, Alexander Wang, Michael Kors, Donna Karan, Oscar de la Renta and 3.1 Phillip Lim.

Nicole Fischelis, vice president and fashion director at Macy’s
“Isaac Mizrahi had the wit we need for the climate we are living in and to stimulate customers to buy. The collection was totally innovative, wearable and full of must-haves. The great thing to see is how Isaac is infusing Liz Claiborne with a new spirit and integrity of design. He can address the high end and the mass customer. I loved Donna Karan for her style and sensuality, combined tailoring and draping and amazing color sensibility. DKNY was at its best with realistic, contemporary clothes and terrific new items.” Fischelis also cited Kors for a “glamorous masculine-feminine approach with true investment clothes; Ralph Lauren for his aesthetic and fusion idea with luxurious clothes; Tuleh’s spirited, luxurious bohemian attitude with print combinations; Calvin Klein’s masterful architectural, wearable clothes; Tommy Hilfiger’s true sportswear classics and affordable luxury; Marc Jacobs’ modernity and nod to the Eighties and ‘Annie Hall’ spirit at Marc by Marc Jacobs, and Anna Sui’s belle epoque spirit.”

Ikram Goldman, owner of Ikram in Chicago
“I think people are optimistic. They’re careful and respectful of what’s going on in this country, but they’re energized by what’s happening in America and the new administration. People are hopeful. I am definitely more careful” with the open-to-buy. “I’m a little more selective from what I buy from every collection, but I haven’t dropped any collections and I’m still looking for new talent.” Among her favorite collections: Proenza Schouler and, among the new talent, she liked Joseph Altuzarra, Fabiola Arias and, for accessories, Fenton.

Sarah Easley and Beth Buccini, owners of Kirna Zabête
They rated the season as “very strong,” citing Jason Wu, Peter Som, Narciso Rodriguez, Thakoon, Proenza Schouler and Alexander Wang as favorites. The shows offered “nothing silly. The shows were edited, on time and well-designed,” Easley said. “We are working harder to buy with absolute conviction. We have to unanimously adore every piece we buy. For better or for worse, we buy more with our heart than with our budget.”

 

[kimair]

milan...
wwd / march 3, 2009

Milan Buyers Upbeat, But Thrifty

MILAN — Financial crisis or not, Milan brought sexy and powerful back to women’s wear for fall.

“These are difficult and uncertain times, and designers have been literal in the fact that women will need strong shoulders to carry us through [them],” said Sarah Rutson, fashion director at Lane Crawford, Hong Kong.

While retailers were surprised by the glut of party clothes at the shows, which wound up Tuesday, they liked what they saw — although that doesn’t mean they’re not cutting their budgets and asking fashion houses to do deals.

Nonetheless, buyers were generally upbeat about the season. “Economic doom and gloom doesn’t seem to have cast its shadow here in Milan. There was no shortage of the luxurious materials and deluxe craftsmanship that Italy is famous for, freshened up with new ideas and plenty of attitude,” said Linda Fargo, senior vice president and fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman.

“We are leaving Milan with collections that delivered clear, strong messages with new, powerful silhouettes and enough glitter and emotion to light up our customers’ wardrobes,” said Barbara Atkin, vice president, fashion direction, at Holt Renfrew, Toronto.

Still, in exchange for loyalty this season, buyers said they expected brands to reduce their margins going forward.

“We look at this from a community perspective. We are all feeling the pinch. There are a lot of hard decisions to make, but we remain positive that we can manage through this well with good discussions with our partners,” said Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director at Barneys New York.

“We are working alongside the designers, who are sensitive to the moment and focused on management, distribution and commercial conditions. A number of brands have expanded their product and price range to cooperate with retailers,” said Tiziana Cardini, fashion director, La Rinascente.

“Designers need to think very hard about their pricing strategy next year. We are very optimistic and hopeful and believe the situation will improve in the next six months to a year,” said Erin Mullaney, women’s wear buying director at Browns, London.

The exaggerated shoulder was a key trend for the season, with tailored jackets making a comeback and skinny pants and leggings continuing. Meanwhile, leather, fur, an abundance of textured fabrics, jewelry and bags aplenty were featured in many collections.

In terms of color, black and gray dominated, much to the chagrin of some buyers, although reds, purples, greens and metallics acted as foils.

Almost all buyers said they were working on tighter budgets this season — “who isn’t?” one said — with some leaner by as much as 20 percent, and so they were seeking bang for their buck. “This season we need to be relentless editors in order to offer our customers the best the market has to offer,” said Jennifer Wheeler, vice president, designer apparel, at Nordstrom.

In the main, retailers said that meant sticking to brands they and their customers know and trust.

“We’ll keep looking at new people, but we’re continuing to work with our current assortment of vendors,” said Joseph Boitano, group senior vice president, general merchandising manager at Saks Fifth Avenue.

Standout collections included Jil Sander, Prada, Marni, Bottega Veneta, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Pucci, Roberto Cavalli and Gianfranco Ferré, retailers said.

Meanwhile, they tipped Christopher Kane at Versus and, for next season, Vionnet, the historic French house recently acquired by Matteo Marzotto and Gianni Castiglioni, as ones to watch in the future.

The following is a rundown of what buyers had to say:

Linda Fargo, senior vice president and fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman
“The prevailing look suggests women in power, whether they’re glamorous and strong with important shoulders and suits applied to hourglass silhouettes or they’re ready to rock. The Eighties were clearly the decade du jour, though the Forties were also present: think large fox fur sleeves and ruby red lips….Raf Simons delivered big-time by expressing both the DNA of classic Jil Sander as well as a masterful series of sculptural pieces playing off the feminine curve. Pucci surprised us favorably by truly making a collection relevant to the desire for clothes with attitude. Gucci will appeal to the heart of the Gucci girl with a shimmering collection, which makes every day a party. Cavalli took a fiercer tone, which we loved — grommets, angles and all. For muted beauties, there’s Tomas Maier at Bottega [Veneta]. It’s a Versace moment, and Donatella seized it. We hope the dust settles favorably on [Gianfranco] Ferré as the two designers are hitting the right notes.”

Joseph Boitano, group senior vice president, general merchandising manager, Saks Fifth Avenue
“Overall, we are very pleased. There were two different trends: First of all, the sophisticated, dressed-up, tailored collections such as Prada, Versace, Armani and even Marni, which was beautifully pulled together, then the 1980s sexy, harder-edged collections, like Gucci, Cavalli and Pucci. It’s not either-or. Both elements are exciting. Diversity is great for our customers….One collection stood out: Jil Sander. It was exquisitely done. The classic tailoring moving into geometric shapes was beautiful and so relevant for today….We are also pleased to see cocktail dresses in so many of the collections. It’s a big opportunity. Versace’s were great, and Dolce [& Gabbana] did some beautiful cocktail dresses.”

Stephanie Solomon, vice president of fashion direction, Bloomingdale’s
“Milan put us in a good mood….There were a lot of references to the Eighties, and when you reflect back on that period, it was a time of great self-assurance. It was a time when women dressed to be noticed. The power suit, the big shoulders, lots of shine and glitter, neon colors: they are all trends that exude self-belief. If there’s one thing a woman needs in fall ’09, it’s confidence….Armani returned to his roots with short skirts and strong jackets with defined shoulders….As for Gucci, it takes guts to dress in a sequin jacket and leggings. You have to like yourself. And that is good news for women. Pucci, Cavalli and Versace were also strong. They were simply fun. [Burberry’s] Christopher Bailey took a romantic approach, and his soft dresses with oversize coats exuded confidence. Raf Simons’ neon and sculptural shapes [at Jil Sander] were all about getting noticed when you walk into a room. Prada was the same, with the slightly exaggerated hips. Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi continue to show the promise of world-class design for the future — both in their own line and at Gianfranco Ferré.”

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director, Neiman Marcus
“The fashion customer has closets full of clothes, and newness is going to be paramount in getting her into the stores to shop. Customers want specialness. We love all this shoulder action we’re seeing in Milan, even if some on the runway are extreme. And there’s the return of the jacket. We saw great jackets at Giorgio Armani and pagoda sleeves at Aquilino & Rimondi. The shoulder story is going to be a reason to buy. And we saw the continuation of the legging and narrow pants. Jil Sander’s sculptural shapes and color were a standout, and we loved the closer-to-the-body Marni, Bottega Veneta’s superchic dresses and the red leather coat at Prada was outstanding. In general, there was too much black and gray, and it continues to surprise us how designers love heavy fabrics. Our customers don’t respond to it. A lot of the revved-up sexiness is runway styling. It’s going to be interesting in the showrooms to see what the prices are. The customer is looking for price-value when she’s shopping.”

Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director, Barneys New York
“[Jil Sander’s] Raf Simons gave us a fantastic show in two parts. First he showed us beautifully tailored keep-forever items. The second part was filled with sculptural modern pieces. Everything looked rich…. Tomas Maier’s collection [for Bottega Veneta] was sexy and strong due to his new snug-fitting silhouette and casually glamorous long dresses. His dresses in velvet with crystal embellishment were must-haves. We don’t believe in ‘designing down’ to accommodate conservative spending, but we are looking for things that a customer can wear more year-round. We feel there is more perceived value in these types of pieces….It’s not a question of sexy or classic, it’s more about what will drive a customer to buy. There are all types of different customers who aspire to different ‘wants’ for their wardrobes overall, but what will drive them to consume is shifting. There is more consumer consciousness developing….No doubt it will be tough, but it will also be a time of creativity. It’s an amazing time to incubate new ideas.”

Sarah Rutson, fashion director, Lane Crawford, Hong Kong
“There has been a huge amount of ‘going-out dressing,’ which to some has given rise to criticism. However, we have to put it in the context of pre-collections that were very sedate and daywear-driven. Runway deliveries will have to be a ‘wow.’ What is selling for us are the special pieces, the point of difference. There was a lot of metal embellishment and grommets, animal prints, thigh-high boots, skinny leather and python-skin pants, tight and sexy Eighties dresses. A cape is the new coat silhouette. Fur has been about mixing pelts and having a full furry sleeve or shoulder different to the body of the coat. Highlights were Jil Sander, Marni and Prada, which summed up a season of pragmatic strength and optimism. Also, Neil Barrett’s women’s wear continues to maintain a strong following. His sparkled leather pieces and printed python and stretch jersey dresses and pants are going to fly out of the store.”

Barbara Atkin, vice president, fashion direction, Holt Renfrew, Toronto
“Our budgets are conservative and in line with a business model that challenges us to be uncompromising in our selections with a strong point of view. There were many highs and lots of surprises…. Bold-shouldered jackets look new and will make past season’s jackets look passé. The message was strong for coats and suits as important investment pieces. The big surprise was the amount of emphasis on sexy, flashy club and late-evening clothes: a strong signal that the Milanese designers believe in the luxury customer continuing their zest for maintaining the ‘good life.’ We will invest in great coats, suits and bold-shouldered jackets. Knitwear, especially sweater coats and cardigans, sexy dresses, leather — from biker jackets to skinny pants — fur and sequined pieces add to the mix.”

 

[kimair]

milan continued...

Jennifer Wheeler, vice president, designer apparel, Nordstrom
“Milan gave us a futuristic take on the historical female warrior: a Joan of Arc meets ‘Mad Max’ meets Xena. The collections offered some great items. These will be our focus, as that is how our customers will be buying from us, more so than ever in this climate. We are all looking for the formula to stimulate the consumer. The customer wants to feel she is making smart investment choices in her wardrobe. However, what she will be compelled to buy is something new that she falls in love with and has to have. We do believe that sexy will retail and resonate with our customer. The most compelling fashion messages, trends and items were skinny pants, miniskirts and tunics, strong shoulder details, floral brocades, future warrior looks, leather and disco-nightlife apparel.”

Averyl Oates, buying director, Harvey Nichols
“Waists have been defined: sex is clearly back — not just seen in thigh-high boots and punk-rock Balmain-ish references (as in the display of chain mail and grommets at the strong but pared-down Cavalli show, and the energetic Pucci show with motorcycle jackets and skinny leather jeans), but some looks have even been alluring and coquettish….[At Jil Sander], the series of sculptural jackets, dresses and cocoon shapes…gave us a futuristic couture show unlike any other seen this season. Tomas Maier showed a very sensual collection for Bottega Veneta…. Gucci presented a gorgeous glittery collection of timeless tops with sparkling spandex leggings, very Studio 54 or Eighties disco. Miuccia Prada, on the other hand, presented a show…with references to the early Forties in both style and mood, when women presented their feminine side against all the odds; what should have been perfectly groomed chignons were mussed up, heels were high and silhouettes voluminous with the deepest V necklines. Marni was cool and even more sophisticated than before, showing every kind of desirable jewelry, from rock crystals to chunky flower necklaces shown over rich jacquards and brocade fabrics, all exquisitely embellished.”

Cindy Ho, fashion and merchandising director, Villa Moda, Kuwait
Ho said she was “very happy” with Milan Fashion Week, which delivers a “strong and important message” with lightness of colors and materials. “This helps the mood of those buying goods in September.” She said there was “a lot of creativity and a strong image, with unique and very special pieces.” She said Jil Sander was “amazing.” Ho liked the layered look at Missoni, with light and deconstructed knitwear…Bottega Veneta’s “beautifully structured, fitted clothing” and color palette ranging from peach and apricot to beige. Marni was “very special” with “beautiful embellishments and colors.” Prada was “so strong,” especially the embellishments on leather. Meanwhile, Dolce & Gabbana’s renewed focus on head and shoulders was “special” compared to the previous season. Ho liked the reds, khakis and bottle pink where used, and said they looked beautiful together. She also praised the new suit, its cut and the very special slits. In terms of budgets, Ho said that “if the price is correct for the piece and not overrated, then there is no problem.” She trimmed her budget “by 10 or 15 percent,” and noted some designers had lowered their prices by 10 percent for their pre-collections.

Erin Mullaney, women’s wear buying director, Browns, London
“We were most moved by highly individual and not so trend-driven collections. Marni was one of our favorites, combining colors, patterns and accessories to create a unique look….Jil Sander was a fabulous collection….It was very forward thinking and modern and there was something for everyone….Bottega Veneta also stood out from the rest of the mix, which drove the high-sex, broad-shoulders, Eighties theme to almost too far. It was beautifully understated, pretty, soft and feminine in a week that was so hard. Pucci had a new energy and new vitality. It was right on trend, very sexy and very strong. Christopher Kane for Versus had amazing accessories, which will be commercially successful, and we’re picking that up for fall. We also felt Pollini was strong…. We noticed interesting developments in knitwear, especially at Missoni. Sex always sells, but it doesn’t have to be overtly sexy; it can be understated like at Prada. We have to give women a reason to buy; we have to work harder so that they feel like they get value for money, something sexy and unique that is going to make them feel like a different person.”

Katerina Moseeva, commercial director, Bosco di Ciliegi, Russia
“Sportmax reinterpreted many strong trends the right way, which makes the collection very sellable, also given the quality-price ratio.” She also liked Etro, which she described as “very rich,” with golden details on skirts and clutches, “beautiful knits and coats.” “You feel like buying these clothes. In times of crisis, you shouldn’t offer basic pieces, but strong, beautiful collections that trigger a desire to buy.” Moseeva was particularly impressed by Jil Sander. “There are trends at Jil Sander that we’ll see in two or three years.” The second part, with the black dresses lined in yellow and asymmetrical, were “strong and well constructed.” She also described Moschino and Moschino Cheap & Chic, as “very beautiful, feminine and sellable,” citing coats, knits and dresses. Moseeva said she based her budget on the performance of the fall-winter collections’ sell-out. She didn’t cut her budget and in some cases, she bought more because some companies expanded their collections with different price points, such as Moschino.

Tancrède de Lalun, men’s and women’s buying director, Printemps
“There were two distinct extremes, either very calm or very sexy. Leather, fur, leggings, thigh-highs, sequins, studs and short dresses made a visible statement. Compared to last season, styles were not as risky, there were fewer prints and less color. Brands stayed true to their style and didn’t venture into the unknown. This is not the moment to ignore one’s heritage. Both sex and classic will sell as long as brands stay true to their DNA. Gucci, Pucci and Dolce & Gabbana are likely to rise above the gloomy economy for their sexy and festive flare. Pucci has completely changed its course towards sexiness, which is very on trend. The best brands are those with a strong identity and they will be the most successful. More than ever before clients pay close attention to value, each product must justify its price.”

Tiziana Cardini, fashion director, La Rinascente
“Designers presented well-defined, creative and strong collections, which shows they are reacting to the moment.” However, Cardini expressed doubts about the 1980s-disco mood on the catwalks. “Nobody wishes in times of austerity to see collections that are severe, but the overtly sexy inspiration appears to be strained. It could work for a young customer or in the fast-fashion industry, but not in the high-end range of the market. I loved Prada, the image of a sophisticated woman who doesn’t shy away from being eccentric. It’s sexy yet cultivated, wicked yet upper class. It was one of the best, directional and inspiring.” Cardini also praised Jil Sander because Raf Simons “evolves the brand, respecting its DNA, creating a strong tie between the creativity of the original Sander designer and his own.” She said Marni was “the most British of the Italian brands, with its college eccentricity, combined with practicality.” Cardini praised the balance, this season especially, “between Marni’s two souls: the eccentric, poetic and odd and its Milanese functionality.”

Marigay McKee, fashion and beauty director, Harrods
“My favorite shows were Bottega Veneta and Marni. They were both absolutely stunning. Bottega for its clean lines, beautiful color palette and the romanticism of the cocktail dresses; Marni for being fun and playful while capturing the mood with some of the best outerwear I’ve seen this season. Pucci and Cavalli stood out as they departed from their usual formula and showed much edgier collections than usual….The use of leather and fur was also a stunning enhancement that added sophistication to the edginess….Gucci certainly broke the gloom factor with sequins, sparkles and embellishments that rocked with bling despite the crisis. Blumarine also was a splash of exotic color….Versace put on high-octane glamour that was gladiatorlike, whilst Cavalli sent out warriors to fight the climate, in neutral tones (blacks, navies and grays) — the antithesis to the usual Cavalli prints. We have not cut our budgets, but are being cautiously optimistic, as we are trading up on last year and business is healthy. We are not dropping any brands due to the economic situation…. Overall Milan was very good for us with the right mix of commercial content versus aesthetic-newness content.”

Linda Dresner, owner, Linda Dresner, Birmingham, Mich.
“We’re being very careful and we’re choosing particular pieces rather than collections. It’s not the moment to have quantities of the same label. It’s the moment to be original in your choices. I’m buying clothes that have a strong personality, and we bought from artisanal people, like Daniela Gregis. I loved the coats from Capucci, and I liked very much the new collection by Romeo Gigli.”

Anita Barr, director of women’s wear, Selfridges
Jil Sander was definitely my highlight of the week. It was a fantastic show and a really inspirational collection that focused on a modern silhouette is a paired-down classic color palette. You could see the impact that the likes of Balmain and Martin Margiela have had recently. Power dressing with exaggerated shoulders and nipped-in waists was prevalent, combined with Eighties-inspired hair and makeup. Jil Sander, Pucci, Marni and Burberry all certainly broke through the gloom, but for very different reasons. Pucci’s aesthetic was so different to what we have come to expect that it made a real impact, and Marni, as always, used a brilliant and idiosyncratic color palette. Burberry also showed some beautiful pieces, particularly the tweeds and coats. We didn’t really see any outstanding newcomers, but historically that’s what we usually expect from London and Paris. Right now, customers want to buy exceptional investment pieces, whether they’re sexy or classic.”

 

[kimair]

paris...
wwd / march 15, 2009

Retailers Praise Paris Fashion Week, Reduce Budgets

Retailers praised a safe-but-solid Paris fashion season based on polished French chic while pushing sharp pricing and the “wow” factor to the top of their buying agendas.

“It is now apparent that the wealthiest women are taking price into consideration,” said Ann Watson, vice president and fashion director of Henri Bendel. “The customer is king again and is demanding substance, quality and great designs for her money.”

Budgets for the fall-winter season are being pruned by up to 30 percent, sources said, putting the onus on designer vendors to deliver compelling fashions and terrific value — or be left in the dust.

Some retailers estimated prices were down roughly 10 percent across the board at a time when steep discounts are needed to coax spending. “Many houses are focused on price and trying to deliver great quality at a price: not trading down. That’ll be encouraging for the customer to shop. It’s an important strategy,” said Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director at Neiman Marcus. “Where the product is right, we’re there. When it’s not, it won’t be in our stores.”

Collections garnering wide praise from retailers included Lanvin, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Dries Van Noten, Yves Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen and Haider Ackermann, while Eighties- and Forties-style dresses, leather leggings, strong-shouldered jackets and sweater coats were cited among key items.

Shortcomings in Paris included a preponderance of black and gray clothes, and a dearth of fashion jewelry, a hot category at retail.

“We are focusing on core brands that can still give us excitement and have the desirability for a customer to want to buy,” said Sarah Rutson, fashion director at Hong Kong’s Lane Crawford, citing Givenchy, Lanvin and Balenciaga as examples. “I have to feel like, ‘I’ve got to have this’ in order to buy. It’s solely about desire; it’s not about need.”

Here’s what buyers had to say:

Andrew Keith, president, Joyce Boutique Holdings Ltd., Hong Kong: “There was a refined sobriety to many of the collections. Tailoring was key, and the focus was more on investment classics, with designers focusing on innovation through fabrication, finishes, inventive cutting and draping. We didn’t see many designers taking risks, preferring to concentrate on fine-tuning the brand positioning. We are allocating our budgets to those brands that can deliver a point of difference and desirability for today’s customers. Although we are looking at an overall reduction, we have kept budgets open for new and emerging brands that provide a compelling new vision. Brands that managed to deliver perceived value will be most successful at retail for us. The collections that we felt were particularly strong were Balenciaga, Comme des Garçons, Yves Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen.”

Ed Burstell, buying director, Liberty, London: “Paris designers played it on the safe side — with a few notable exceptions being Nina Ricci, Alexander McQueen and Comme des Garçons. It’s odd given the economic climate as customers are only buying the exceptional pieces — ones that can evoke an emotional response. The best apparel messages were interesting dresses in every shape, color and fabrication, and investing in great outerwear. The biggest disappointment was the Eighties influence…again. My top collections were Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten, Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney. Liberty will be carrying more fashion from Paris next season. Our customers want to see fresh design that is not overly commercial or overly distributed. You have to look under every rock — and that includes every trade show, big and small, and every multibrand showroom. This strategy is extremely effective for us, with over a dozen new resources being added for fall across all fashion categories.”

Cindy Ho, fashion and merchandising director, Villa Moda, Kuwait: “Collections are priced about 10 percent lower than average compared to last year. We’re getting closer to ‘the right product for the right price.’ The message from the brands is clear: that even in tough times, there is always a good time to be had somewhere. We saw more colors, more embellishment with beautiful colored stones, more fun and cheer from the music and overall ambience. We are seeing a lot more of a focus on the shoulder and the waist, using shoulder pads and belts. The look pairing a dress with a coat is also important, and leggings, in colors, prints and embroideries.” Her favorite collections were Lanvin, Manish Arora, Miu Miu and Yves Saint Laurent.

Sarah Rutson, fashion director, Lane Crawford, Hong Kong: “My business in certain designer brands remains strong, and the collections I loved the most were strong and consistent, especially Givenchy, which was incredible, with so much to work with in the showroom and great pricing. Balenciaga and Lanvin have continued strength at retail now, and this is reflected in our buys. I feel very positive for Stella McCartney as well as Roland Mouret and Haider Ackermann. To be frank, this isn’t the best Paris season I’ve encountered. The runways were often too much a sea of black and lacking femininity and color, though we did start seeing a bit more optimism at the end. There are prevailing Eighties and Forties influences: dresses with long sleeves, a lot of strong shoulders, one-armed tops and dresses, skirt suits and the return of sheer hosiery, leather, shiny metallics and highlights of lace. I hope, going forward, designers can give more sense of femininity and not focus too much on aggressive warrior looks.”

Carla Sozzani, owner, Corso Como 10, Milan: “I thought Comme des Garçons was fantastic, and I liked Balenciaga very much. There’s so much of the Eighties and I’m not a fan of the Eighties, especially when it’s literal, but at Balenciaga, for example, you find really great clothes. Azzedine Alaïa was also very good. Of course, he was big in the Eighties, but he moved it forward.”

Polina Kitsenko, co-owner, Podium, Moscow: “Everyone was pretty concerned that the economic situation would bring down the mood of designers and influence their creativity. This did not happen. The shows I liked were Rick Owens, Givenchy, Junya Watanabe, Nina Ricci, Chanel and Balmain. General trends were Eighties and men’s tailoring for women. We [sometimes] cut budgets, mainly depending on the quality of the collection. We have been buying fur more cautiously during the last two winters as a result of global warming, even in Russia. We have seen lots of padded shoulders, leather in jackets and pants, leather combined with fabrics, biker jackets, slouchy pants, drop-crotch pants, pleats, thick knits, bouclé wool, flannels, jersey drapes, boleros. And for shoes, pinup heels, platforms and thigh boots.”

Kazuyoshi Minamimagoe, chief buyer and creative director of women’s, Beams Co. Ltd., Japan: “Japan’s fashion market is witnessing a very slow start for spring-summer, effecting our buying to a careful and focused selection of brands. Comme des Garçons and Stella McCartney — brands that portray a strong, unique identity of their own, rather than trend — are definitely the most interesting.”

Marigay McKee, fashion and beauty director, Harrods: “We aren’t reducing our budgets, although we have edited out some brands. We’re backing all the brands that continue to deliver consistent growth and increased desirability. Our three favorite Paris shows were Lanvin, Balmain and Givenchy. As for the power shows, Dior was exquisite, Chanel was very Karl [Lagerfeld], we loved Louis Vuitton and YSL was more intellectual but still very of the moment. We look forward to a solid fall season with great outerwear, lots of capes, biker jackets, great coats, a big resurgence of leather and suede, from skinny leather leggings and dresses to suede jumpsuits and shoes. There was a lot of fur on show with astrakhan and lambskin key in a lot of the collections. Velvet also crept into a lot of shows as a detail or edging, as did lace. Belts are still key, and belted cardigans and coats still a feature. The little black dress still reigns supreme for day or evening, and over-the-knee boots, flat or high, are king whilst platform skyscrapers will still rule the footwear stakes. The skinny pant, more high waisted than before, is the de rigueur trouser — in spandex leather suede or wool, as close to a legging as one can get without it being a legging.”

Ken Downing, senior vice president, fashion director, Neiman Marcus: “We’re pleased with Paris: the poise, the polish and the sense of femininity Paris had this season. We loved Balenciaga, Lanvin, Christian Dior, Nina Ricci, Chanel and Stella McCartney, and we picked up Rochas, which had great late-day and dinner dressing. The shoulder continues to be an important story, not as aggressive as in Milan — a little more Forties. Leather is so important, and jade green is looking really fresh. It’s nice to see the continuation of all this big, shiny gold costume jewelry, as it’s a real bright spot at retail.”

Colleen Sherin, fashion market director, Saks Fifth Avenue: “The key message in Paris was one of polished Parisian chic with a powerful edge: The idea of sculpted tailoring and a return to investment dressing in terms of beautiful fabrications, double-faced cashmere and flannel, leathers and furs. Paris redefined the idea of a suit — a skirt suit, a pantsuit or taking the jacket as a separate item. There’s a return to the jacket, the newness is the emphasis on the strong shoulder, beautiful coats and outerwear, the importance of leather, especially black leather throughout and fur. There are two distinct pant silhouettes: still skinny pants and leggings, but also beautiful draped or fluid pants at Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten, Yves Saint Laurent and Dior.” Other notable collections were Lanvin, Chanel, Givenchy, Ann Demeulemeester, Chanel, Alexander McQueen, Martin Grant and Chloé.

Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director, Barneys New York: “We are definitely buying very carefully. We are asking a lot of questions. If something is expensive, we ask why. If something is a ‘one-season wonder,’ we are saying no. We are looking at everything with a precise and strategic fashion consciousness. We are making it easier for our customer by editing even more than usual. We are also being more imaginative in how we will sell things for fall. It was definitely a flashback to 1982, when the economy was tough, but yet there was plenty of style. The best shows were Lanvin, Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Nina Ricci, Dries Van Noten, Givenchy and Martin Grant.”

Linda Dresner, owner, Linda Dresner, Birmingham, Mich.: “Our intention is to spend probably 20 percent less. It’s more cherry-picking: trying to keep a lot of animation in the store. Clothes have to really speak with a loud voice if we’re going to say yes. There have been wonderful coats all over, whether small or military. A soft, romantic blouse looked very good at Chloé mixed with military. We’ve seen a lot of fur, and small fur jackets or soles with a vintage flavor look good. There’s still some rock ’n’ roll looks, but very aggressive dressing looks old hat to me. Prices are high, but I feel people are trying to be cooperative and keep them same. We loved Yohji Yamamoto, Azzedine Alaïa and Junya Watanabe.”

Ann Watson, vice president and fashion director, Henri Bendel: “We were excited to see more daywear options come down the runway, addressing today’s more casual lifestyle needs, as well as the continuation of the strong-shoulder jacket without it looking too Eighties. Favorite shows were Alexander McQueen, Sharon Wauchob, Rue du Mail, Balenciaga and Christian Lacroix. We will focus on the streamlined silhouette that our customer loves, with, among key items, black leather, especially the black stretch leather legging. Our customer is shopping for things that she does not already own; she is looking for versatility, not duplication. The [season’s] low point would be the abundance of colorless and black collections, as well as the lack of fashion jewelry, resulting in a very austere aesthetic which does not relate to our customer’s desire to express her femininity and irreverent spirit.”

Barbara Atkin, vice president, fashion direction, Holt Renfrew, Toronto: “Paris reminds us that the world of luxury will survive with stealth clothing that makes its statement not through gimmicks or frivolous flash but through intelligently executed design. We particularly liked the collections from Balenciaga, Lanvin, Yves Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen. Our shopping list includes big-shouldered jackets, leather biker jackets and skinny leather leggings, sheath dresses, couture-shaped coats and capes to fit over big-shouldered coats, dresses, blouses and knits, especially sweater coats and knit dresses. There has been a slight shift in our vendor base due to our commitment to supporting new talent. We are adding Joseph Altuzarra and Phi and bought them out of Paris. Budgets are conservative. Prices remain high, and we are buying those pieces within each collection that look every bit their value and will have emotional appeal to our customers. Our vendors have been great partners, opening the line of communication and finding ‘sweet spot’ price points wherever possible.”

 

[kimair]

paris continued...

Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice president, designer merchandising, Nordstrom: “Our vendor matrix out of Paris will remain the same as last season. The only difference is our buy will be tighter, focusing on the pieces we loved the most for our stores. Dries Van Noten gives buyers everything they need for success. The fall collection of Givenchy was so precise, and the energy around what Riccardo Tisci is doing for the house is another formula for success. Haider Ackermann’s palette, materials and shapes created one of strongest shows of the season. For me, Yves Saint Laurent was just short of perfection. Stefano Pilati managed to make a gray pin-striped skirt suit newsworthy — which ain’t easy.”

Erin Mullaney, designer wear buyer, Browns, London: “I think prices are really high, it’s a problem, people need to work harder. At Balmain, we were gob-smacked at the prices, even more than we were last time. People will tolerate that for only so long. We’re buying only special pieces from each collection, whereas before we’d buy loads of knitwear, or entry-level items. Key looks for the season will be an oversize men’s blazer with leggings and little dresses with a leather jacket. Our favorite collection was Alexander McQueen: It was the perfect time to put on an amazing production. Azzedine Alaïa developed more couture detailing. I also loved the way Rick Owens used light and dark. Balenciaga was very new. I thought the overall look at Hussein Chalayan was really clever. It’s probably the sexiest collection he’s ever done. It’s going to be great for us.”

Karen Daskas, co-owner, Tender, Detroit: “I have cut at least eight brands, and I cut my budgets by at least 20 percent. I have to really stand back and take a look at my business. I’m realizing I can no longer buy from a collection because I personally love it or I personally love the designer or the sales director. Whether it’s a T-shirt or a fur coat, I have to look at it and know in my heart that I can sell it. Our clients have to look at something, and it has to really grab them. This is a time when you know which designers you do have a true relationship with. Alber [Elbaz] tried really, really hard to work with fabric houses that make the satins that he uses so much, to get prices down at Lanvin. He’s sensitive to what’s happening. If you price yourself out of the market, no one is going to be successful.” Other collections with standout items included Nina Ricci and Balmain.

Kelly Golden, owner, Neapolitan, Winnetka, Ill.: “The Paris runways were a clear reflection of the current times: restrained, sensible and dark. Designers opted for understated but strong looks instead of over-the-top flamboyance. Suits were back in a big-shouldered way, emphasizing the power silhouette seen all over the runways. I wish there was more color, but my clients will splurge on Lanvin and Andrew Gn, who provided timeless, sophisticated pieces. Overall, designers were able to bring prices down 10 to 20 percent and have been responsive to the economic environment.”

Averyl Oates, chief buying director, Harvey Nichols: “I think the customers want either classic timeless pieces, that designers such as Azzedine Alaïa or Alber Elbaz at Lanvin do so well, or something whimsical that they won’t find anywhere else. I loved the Forties trend, a clever combination of austerity and elegance. I noticed that accessories were also very strong, heels were still high, but styles more simple. Dries Van Noten has the most wonderful court shoe with a python sole. At Alexander McQueen, the commercial collection was just as beautiful to see and touch as it had appeared on the catwalk. Also the Balenciaga show was strong and dramatic, but actually in the showroom the velvets and devorés appeared softer, more accessible and the shoulder pads were removable. Leather was everywhere, and the best was black, as seen at YSL and Balmain. Will the leather trouser or even leather gloves be next season’s favorite?”

Nicole Fischelis, vice president, fashion director, Macy’s: “It’s been an exciting week with the fusion — to confusion — of genres, from chic to Baroque, reinventing the approach to masculine and feminine, molded to architectural silhouettes, a continuation of couture crafted detailing-dressing and a homage to the Eighties.” Fischelis cited belted jackets and coats, fur and art prints as key trends. “As in New York, black is strong with many different kinds of shine, as well as a bright palette, where red is emerging as a major statement.”

Elizabeth Lepore, owner, Jimmy’s, Brooklyn, N.Y.: “The most dynamic and creative pieces were in the realm of eveningwear. Outstanding were the collections of Zuhair Murad, Elie Saab and Jasmine Di Milo. Homing in on collections, such as these three, and focusing on selecting special-occasion party attire for our clients, is how we are structuring our buying for the upcoming season. Our handpicked selections will be ‘special.’ ”

 

[avatare]

Kimair thanks for share

 

[elle_gb]

Thanks for information.

 

[BerlinRocks]

thanks !
always interesting !

 

[Nixon058]

I tend to agree with the team at Browns London...

 

[hautechild]

This is a really interesting read, thanks!

 

[fierceboi]

everyone whom is interested in fashion should read this.

 

[gius]

Marni seems to be super popular..

 

[ElectricAlyce]

Thanks a lot, I'll no doubt read throught this carefully! After skimming through it I was fascinated that so many buyers were interested in Alexander McQueens show, after the thread on his collection almost concluded that it wasn't sellable or wearable. Hmm.

 

[Street_a_Licious]

^i also believe they're talking more about the showroom pieces than the showpieces.

 

[jhaime]

as you would expect, only Erin Mullaney & Sarah Lerfel talking any sence from this group. Linda Dressner finally wising up after having to close up in New York was it?

This lot just remain with the mass-produced, over-priced crap that people are growing tired of. These buyers may have grown up in a generation dominated by those design houses, but guess what, we don't live in that era anymore...bring something fresh to the table if you're going to discuss 'creativity'...

 

[falmondske]

This was indeed very interesting to read. Thank you for posting it, kimair.

 

[JuiceMajor]

always look forward to this after all the excitement...good reality check!

 

[ysajnani]

hey does anybody know any of the contact details like email or anything of any of these buyers?