F/W 10.11 Buyers Reports

[kimair]

all from wwd, starting with new york:

Buyers Pleased With New York Fashion Shows

NEW YORK — Fall could be the watershed season.

So hope buyers, who said the trends seen during New York Fashion Week bode well for fall selling and the season could mark a turning point in consumers’ willingness to spend. High-waisted full pants, vests, legwarmers, military coats, ponchos or capes, shearling coats, fur-trimmed jackets, handbags decorated with fur, leather dresses and chunky knits are some of the key fall items, said store executives.



“People are going to need to do a lot of updating,” said Beth Buccini, co-owner of Kirna Zabête. “A lot of designers took risks and that’s what you have to do in this economy to sell clothes. Consumers want something new and different because there’s a void in their wardrobe.” Buccini said New York designers rallied and “pulled it together to give us something really exciting. Our budgets are up, for sure.”



“People are feeling better about the tone of business,” said Michael Gould, chairman and chief executive officer of Bloomingdale’s. “It’s based on the fourth quarter and you can tell by just walking around the shows. We see an opportunity to grow the business in the fall season. We had a very good fourth quarter and feel cautiously optimistic.”



Despite the optimism, retailers recognize that price will remain key. Ron Frasch, Saks Inc.’s vice chairman and chief merchandising officer, commended designers for keeping costs down. “People worked very hard to control prices. There’s a lot more luxe [in the clothing] and that’s expensive so I’m very pleased with the prices I’ve seen.

“

We’re feeling a little more positive about the business,” Frasch added. “Having wonderful product will be very beneficial to that. I don’t see the business exploding. Pretty much everyone is taking the same approach. Everyone is very cautious. No one knows what’s next. We’re trying to be very intelligent and very discretionary about which businesses we’re going to push a little bit and hopefully it will work.”



While Saks is pleased with early spring sell-throughs, Frasch noted: “We’re not up against very much and we’re dealing with lower levels of inventory. You have to buy differently. One thing we learned a lot last year is how to buy differently. We’re buying a lot more selectively and making sure there’s less inventory. We are also buying more emotionally. Clothes need to be emotional and inspiring in terms of their visual appeal. I’m a little disappointed that there wasn’t more color.”



“The collections in New York were strong,” said Judy Collinson, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of women’s at Barneys New York. “Designers have responded to the market with great pragmatic solutions and, even better, with great creativity. It seems that everyone has worked very hard and that tough business has inspired everyone. Business is picking up and this energy plus the strength of many collections will cause us to reallocate certain budgets and make increases.”



Sarah Rutson, fashion director of Lane Crawford, agreed, saying: “I will definitely be increasing open-to-buys. No question, we’re upping the ante. With our edit, we will have an exciting fall. I’ve no worries, especially with the unbelievable spring we are experiencing.”



While some critics said the runways were filled with too many tried-and-true designs, with a focus on American sportswear classics, retailers contended there was nothing wrong with that. “Commercial is good,” said Nicole Fischelis, vice president and fashion director of Macy’s. “It’s a season full of fantastic items to capitalize on.”



“Why would we want to go after clothes that aren’t commercial in the first place?” said Barbara Atkin, vice president and fashion director of Holt Renfrew. “It means that somebody can actually identify with the clothing. Yes, we’re familiar with a lot of it, but we haven’t had customers wearing ankle-length skirts for a long time. There’s so much newness in the fabrications and the layering. We don’t want markdowns, we want full-price selling. I applaud New York for taking newness and making it commercial.”



Here, retailers’ views on the New York shows.



Stephanie Solomon, vice president of fashion direction, Bloomingdale’s


Trends with legs: “I loved the casual ease of the clothes based on luxurious fabrics, particularly knits. The skirt lengths are a little longer, the color palette is soothing and calm. There were not a lot of theatrics, just beautiful clothes.” She cited chunky knits, Fair Isles and even the footwear as appearing comfortable. 


Favorite collections: Marc Jacobs for his warm grays, camels, touch of mustard, incredible outerwear with touches of real and fake fur; Rag & Bone for mixing men’s wear and feminine details, perfect proportions and layering; Donna Karan as the “absolute best” with sculptural shapes and for never forgetting about a woman’s body; Michael Kors for quintessential American sportswear, luxurious yet accessible, and incredible knitwear and fur combinations, and Ralph Lauren’s ode to the Bloomsbury movement.


Nicole Fischelis, vice president and fashion director, Macy’s
Trends with legs: Unexpected contrasts from gender blending to menage à trois; utility; the use of fur, shearlings, embellishment, sequins, lace, velvet, draping and fabric and manipulation; the bohemian luxe attitude; knitwear with substance; new layering; wide-leg pants and winter shorts; blanket coats, military and duffle coats, the vest and cargo pants; bustier dresses over fine knits or blouses; crafted architectural sheaths, and flirty dresses with ruffles.


Favorite collections: Marc Jacobs was “a pure moment of grace,” while Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Ralph Rucci, Tommy Hilfiger and Michael Kors showed collections with trend relevance and integrity to their DNA. Among the new generation of designers were Alexander Wang, Rag & Bone, Richard Chai, Karen Walker, Peter Som, Adam, Nanette Lepore and Cynthia Steffe, and rising newcomers Rachel Antonoff, Peter Hidalgo and Bibhu Mohapatra.




Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director, Barneys New York
Favorite collections: “Marc Jacobs’ outstanding show was spot-on in every classification, it was the show of the week; Joseph Altuzarra’s show was the breakout show — he made leather seem like it was the only fabric you’ll want this season. The knitwear trend was exaggerated at Rodarte. The collection was soft, pretty and had an slight edge, which this season is the key combination. Proenza Schouler’s high-waisted pants in a print version were the must-have piece of the season; The Row was precision and simplicity. Up and coming is Ross Menuez’s collection for Salvor Projects. Not many people saw this show due to the snowstorm, which is unfortunate because his intelligent presentation of the continuing trend of artistic prints in interesting shapes was great.”




Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice president of designer merchandising, Nordstrom
Trends with legs: Legwarmers. “Some people will wear them. Really, what is a legwarmer but a scrunchy boot? Knitwear dressing is going to be in, tons of thigh-high and over-the-knee boots.” 


Favorite collections: “Marc Jacobs for his man-tailored double-breasted pantsuit and three-piece pantsuit, coats and color palette. Rodarte reinvented their woman while staying true to who they are with their soft and feminine designs and lightness of fabrics and color. What these women do is really create art. Proenza Schouler’s collection was fresh and young with high-waisted jeans, short jackets, toggle coats and plissé dresses, and Michael Kors’ long skirts, slashed elbows, knitwear dressing and new pantsuit.”




Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman


Trends with legs: Luxed-up utilitarian and the “Neo-primitive trend gone feral with wild, long-hair fur”; men’s wear-inspired tailoring; pants beyond leggings; coats; shine; textured materials; velvet, and leather. 

Concern of the week: The pervasiveness of black. 

Favorite collections: “Marc Jacobs was clearly at his best and personified the season with a masterful and sophisticated collection; Alexander Wang showed us his infinite creativity with sexy tailored riffs on men’s wear for edgy girls; Michael Kors was pure relaxed luxury, and Proenza Schouler mined their cool couture DNA.”




Beth Buccini and Sarah Easley, co-owners, Kirna Zabête
Trends with legs: “Legwarmers, woolly ribbed tights, knit pants or thigh-high legwarmers, people will be clamoring for that; the little bits of fur we saw everywhere, from a full-on tie-dyed coat at Peter Som to scarves on other runways.”


Favorite collections: “We absolutely loved Proenza Schouler, it was an outstanding show; Thakoon was really strong and such a departure for him. He really took a risk. His girl is no longer 20 years old — she’s now very sophisticated. We loved Preen, Alexander Wang, Altuzarra, Narciso Rodriguez, Peter Som and Peter Hidalgo.”




Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director, Neiman Marcus
Trends with legs: Wider trousers; the men’s wear pantsuit with a feminine blouse; military influences; the leather dress; fur-trimmed garments; ponchos, capes and sleeveless vests, and boyfriend coats.


Favorite collections: “Joseph Altuzarra’s razor-sharp tailoring was supersexy; Oscar de la Renta’s color palette, luxe layering, beautiful fur trim and interesting Art Deco embroidery on hems and skirts; Narciso Rodriguez’s sophisticated color palette; Marc Jacobs’ calm colors and collection presented with much confidence; Michael Kors’ true American spirit, and Proenza Schouler’s prep school details on varsity jackets and pleated dresses were a nod to the cheerleader skirt.”



Barbara Atkin, vice president and fashion director, Holt Renfrew
Trends with legs: “The drop in hems of skirts will change jackets and shoes; fabric folding and ruffling; camel, the new color of luxury; high-waisted full pants and bolder shoulders on jackets; enveloping coats; military details; sculptural tailoring and geometric body-conscious clothing.”


Favorite collections: “3.1 Phillip Lim for the beautiful shearlings, knitwear, dresses, outerwear and tunics; Victoria Beckham’s sensuous dresses; Michael Kors’ long knit skirts; Oscar de la Renta’s beautiful refinement and Old-World luxury; Marc Jacobs’ simple, elegant clothes; Reed Krakoff’s utilitarian sportswear; Alexander Wang; Philip Lim, and The Row — style that’s relevant to many generations.”



Sarah Rutson, fashion director, Lane Crawford
Trends with legs: Leather, utility and military. Shearling is the “fur” of the season. “There was a tad too much plaid and checks for my liking for our part of the world. Thank God we have seen less ‘daytime’ sparkle, and are seeing real day clothes. Enough of this cocktail nonsense we saw too much of over the last four or five seasons — that’s so done.”


Favorite collections: “The Row, Phillip Lim 3.1, Alexander Wang, Rag & Bone, Helmut Lang are all huge, huge growth brands for Lane Crawford — double digit — and I’m pleased with them all after showroom visits.”



Colleen Sherin, fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue
Trends with legs: Fur, leather, velvets lace; men’s wear, including pinstripes and plaids; novelty knits; ornamentation with sequins, paillettes, and metallic embroideries that shine; military; leggings and skinny trousers; longer hemlines for skirts, and layering. “It is definitely the season to buy a new coat (or two or three!), ribbed knit tights and innovative gloves.”


Favorite collections: Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Vera Wang, Derek Lam, Proenza Schouler, Rag & Bone, Diane von Furstenberg, and Marchesa. Reed Krakoff showed a promising new collection. Altuzarra was edgy and aggressive, a good balance to all the ladylike collections. We have both those women at Saks, an urban, downtown consumer and the woman who wants to look pretty and feminine. It may even be the same person with different aspects of her lifestyle.”

 

[kimair]

milan next...

The Heritage of Milan: No-Gimmick Lines Seen Luring Consumers

MILAN — Designers here delivered solid collections, easing up on sex and flash to focus on heritage values and investment pieces as customers ease back into spending mode, buyers said.

Despite a condensed Milan show schedule that penalized brands holding showroom presentations, retailers found plenty to like, from pantsuits and outerwear galore to flat shoes and furry boots.

“Everything wasn’t just geared to the young customer. There were also some very work-appropriate looks that came down the runway, and I don’t even call that mature. I call that saleable, which is nice to see,” said Stephanie Solomon, vice president of fashion direction at Bloomingdale’s.

Buyers lauded a return to Made-in-Italy values like high-quality fabrics and craftsmanship, with a particular focus on tailoring and knitwear.

“The strength of the season was in its new direction, away from overt sexuality to a sophisticated maturity rooted in great iconic classics,” said Barbara Atkin, vice president and fashion director at Holt Renfrew. “It is interesting to note that, as the world moves quickly into the 21st century — obsessed with social media and Twitter commentary — the brands are going back to their roots, building on the trust and deliverance of uncompromising quality and fit.”

Dolce & Gabbana crystallized the moment with an emotional catwalk display that used a video backdrop to pay homage to the company’s skilled atelier, capturing the imagination of many buyers.

Key categories and trends of the Italian collections include outerwear, pantsuits, fur, shearlings and lace. Camel and green were cited as the primary color stories.

Buyers said they were increasing their spends in expectation that shoppers would be ready to splurge in the fall after three seasons of cutting back, following encouraging signs of a rebound in spending early this year.

“We are feeling…that the momentum we are experiencing for spring will carry into fall,” said Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of women’s designer apparel at Nordstrom. “Our budgets in Milan are up with the designers who are performing well for us.”

Nonetheless, conscious of the new market realities, Milan designers were generally taking a realistic approach to pricing, retailers reported.

“Some have added more entry-price items, while others have lowered prices slightly overall,” said Tancrède de Lalun, general merchandise manager of women’s and men’s apparel at Printemps. “At any rate, it allows us to offer customers a wider range of prices.”

However, Erin Mullaney, buying director at Browns, lamented that some smaller labels were still overpriced.

“The big houses have done a lot of work, and I think it’s time young designers tried to be more realistic and understand how much people will pay for an unknown label,” she said.

Here are retailers’ views on the Milan shows:

Tancrède de Lalun, general merchandise manager of women’s and men’s apparel, Printemps: “We have been in crisis for three or four seasons now, and customers will want to buy. Everything we have seen since the start of the New York season to Milan makes you want to buy, because there is creativity, but the offer is also reasonable. There was a return to heritage values in the sense that everyone [in Milan] did what they do best and did it extremely well. Dolce & Gabbana sent an extremely strong message about tailoring. It was terrific. In Milan, brands were addressing a powerful, strong woman. This was true from Dolce & Gabbana to Jil Sander, through Roberto Cavalli. A lot of shows brought women back down to earth with small heels or flat shoes, even at Roberto Cavalli and Jil Sander. Fur is essential.”

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director, Neiman Marcus: “It’s too early to say there’s a business trend, but we are seeing customers returning to the stores. We are hopeful for the coming season and we’re very pleased with Milan. The whole contrast of masculine-feminine, boy-meets-girl is a very important story. There’s definitely a nod to the Seventies in the subtlest way. I’m in love with the idea of a pantsuit: It looks very new and superchic. It’s also an exceptional outerwear season. We all have to hope for another chilly fall and winter with all the ponchos, capes, vests. There was a lot of double-face cashmere bordered in leather, and lots of fur, with long-hair fur leading the pack. There’s fur on structured frame handbags and fur on boots. Our favorite collections were Prada, Gucci, Missoni and Gianfranco Ferré.”

Anita Barr, director of women’s wear, Selfridges: “Milan offered up a real departure from the high-octane glamour of previous seasons. Designers such as Dolce & Gabbana and Miuccia Prada showed simple, pared-down classics that reinforced the real craftsmanship of fashion. I think this mood will have real impact on the industry with retailers giving their customers increasingly bespoke experiences and products in store and shoppers expecting and seeking out quality, investment fashion for real women. My favorite show was Prada. It was beautifully executed and really wearable. I loved the frill-front dresses, coats and shoes. The four-day schedule [of the shows] was great.”

Sarah Rutson, fashion director, Lane Crawford: “The schedule was so packed that it was almost like taking part in the Olympics to get to everything! We are having an extraordinary spring season and our buys have to reflect that optimism: that the consumer is back and spending. I’m very happy with the sense of real day clothes for real women — tailoring and knitwear, everything that Italians are incredible at. They’re not trying hard to talk trend, but embracing the quality of craftsmanship, quality of fabrics and finish — a return to heritage. Value for money with finish and quality of fabrication is paramount now. The customer will not settle for trend and hype over quality. Those days are gone. Our favorite collections were Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Trussardi 1911 and Pucci.”

Stephanie Solomon, vice president of fashion direction, Bloomingdale’s: “You absolutely must have new outerwear for fall 2010. It’s really all about anoraks, a camel coat and even if it’s a big, chunky sweater, it’s meant to be worn as outerwear. The next big trend is the suit, as seen at Jil Sander — either a pantsuit or a skirt suit. At Dolce & Gabbana, Jil Sander and even at Prada, there were some suitings that looked very ladylike and classic. I also liked Giorgio Armani. He imbued his show with a new youthful spirit, which I think will attract a younger customer. And then I loved D&G. They showed us the true Nordic Milanese snow goddess, and the best knits I’ve seen in a long time. I do believe that fall will be significantly better because I’m seeing items that women don’t own in their wardrobes.”

Colleen Sherin, fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue: “Milan celebrated Italy’s rich sartorial heritage while exploring its sensual side. The coat took center stage as the number-one item of the season. Decorative and statement outerwear will be a key category for us. Other key trends include leather — supple and tailored as a luxurious fabrication; fur and fur trim, with the newest being fur sleeves; military-uniform influences; feminized men’s wear; plaids; velvet; lace; ruffles, and frills. I loved the high-waisted, back-zip, slightly flared trousers with a Seventies feeling at Pucci. The idea of shorts for autumn-winter continued from New York. Italy’s tradition of easy, luxurious knitwear was also a focus of the week. There was a lot of black. I would like to have seen a bit more color in the collections. Highlights include Dolce & Gabbana, Pucci, Prada, Marni and Roberto Cavalli.”

Christophe Penne, vice president and merchandise manager, Al Rubaiyat Co., Saudi Arabia: “Fur was largely present in all the collections, especially beautiful pieces at Giorgio Armani. All the gray color shades were very nice, and the very fluid fabrics almost made me forget it was a winter collection. The best show was Dolce & Gabbana, where the staging was incredibly emotional. The amazing soundtrack; the live backstage video projected on screens; the testimonial given to their sartorial team at the end of the show, and the astonishing 70 models that then took part in the finale parade gave a strong feeling of humanity to fashion, which is often perceived as a ‘cold’ industry. Gucci was very strong, too, with a Sixties connotation to the collection, with amazing dresses with a lot of lace details, especially on the back.”

Tiziana Cardini, fashion director, La Rinascente: “It was a positive season. Designers further fine-tuned their message revolving on the value of heritage with roots in craftsmanship. They underscored the identity of the brand and product is in the forefront again. I loved their focus on outerwear, which is the foundation of a wardrobe, the first thing you notice, and designers did an extraordinary job. Alberta Ferretti and Versace had beautiful coats, for example. There were lots of furs and shearlings, and materials were always thick, luxurious and important, while the simplicity of cuts was generally enhanced, with clean silhouettes. There were fewer references to specific decades. I was pleased there were more pants this season. Favorite collections were Alberta Ferretti, Versace and Jil Sander. I also liked Moschino, Roberto Cavalli and Missoni.”

Barbara Atkin, vice president and fashion director, Holt Renfrew: “The designer business is on an upswing and our budgets will reflect this positive trend as we focus on more depth within the collections. Clothes were steeped in luxury highlighting abundant furs, leathers and suedes, feminine lace work; artisanal use of collage and patchwork effects; accents through Lurex and lamé touches and trims, and knitwear as art wear. All of these things restore our faith and trust in Made-in-Italy clothes. Our shopping list consists of coats; leather; printed novelty skinny pants and leggings; silk blouses; power suits; knitwear, particularly sweater dresses, sweater coats and cardigans; longer hemlines for skirts and coats, and fur for coats, trims and accessories. Our favorite collections were Gucci, Prada, Fendi, Missoni and Dolce & Gabbana.”

Erin Mullaney, buying director, Browns, London: “Outerwear was a huge trend in Milan, perhaps due to the lack of this category last season or for the harsh winter we’ve just experienced. There was a lot of light fur, shearling, parkas and down jackets. Dolce & Gabbana, Versus, Missoni and Bottega Veneta were definitely highlights, even if generally we were a little disappointed to see spring trends carry over into fall. Military was huge again, especially the color khaki, which felt a bit repetitive but remains commercial. Designers are making a real effort with price. The big houses have done a lot of work, and I think it’s time young designers tried to be more realistic and understand how much people will pay for an unknown label.”

Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of women’s designer apparel, Nordstrom: “Our business confidence going into fall is positive. As for currency, or pricing concerns, we were able to make good progress last fall regarding the overall perceived value in the designer market. Our hope is that the European designers will continue their diligence in providing a compelling pricing range within the collections. Overall assessment of the Milan season: Beautiful and understated, with a strong heritage message. Fall 2010 is the season to buy an entire new coat wardrobe. Milan highlights a return to heritage and sartorial tailoring, where camel is the new black and shearling is the new fur. The Milan collections featured minimalism, topped with maximalism — clean, minimal sportswear and tailoring topped and popped with luxe furs and gorgeous shearlings. Other key items included tailored looks in sportswear and suiting, trousers, sliced or asymmetrical skirts, patchworks, lace and ostrich feathers. Our favorite collections were Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Missoni and Versace.”

Averyl Oates, chief buying director, Harvey Nichols: “There’s a continuing heritage message coming out of Milan of going back to one’s roots and refreshing old ideas. The Fifties revival is particularly strong, as seen at Prada’s ‘Mad Men’-inspired show featuring beautiful printed hourglass silhouettes and cat’s-eye glasses. I also liked Dolce & Gabbana, Missoni, Moschino, Gucci, Pucci and Marni. Generally speaking, outerwear was the focus, especially shearlings and fox fur. Military has been evident at every show, not least in the form of outerwear. Body-consciousness is less evident and silhouettes are longer and leaner.”

Carla Biffi, buyer, Biffi, Milan: “Black is no longer working for us. Customers want something that catches their eyes, so we’re excited about the earthy color palettes. We liked the young luxury aspect at Gucci, Fendi and Marni, the mix of daywear, studied fabrics and use of color such as Fendi’s yellow Peekaboo bag. Overall, though, the four-day schedule felt like there was little time to cover Milan in the correct way, and timings meant young designers were overlooked, which is a real pity.”

Leonardo Girombelli, brand manager, TheCorner.com, owned by the Italian e-tailer Yoox: “I liked the strong-yet-sweet woman on the catwalks and how designers are experimenting while going back to their roots. I don’t think it’s a good idea to play it safe now. Materials and craftsmanship were sophisticated and precious. Tops were more important than bottoms, with leggings, for example, gaining traction. I thought knits were also excellent. Marni and Jil Sander were bravely innovative, and very avant-garde.”

 

[kimair]

finally, paris...

Buyers Laud Paris' New Minimalism

PARIS — The Paris collections marked a sea change in fashion toward pared-down chic and classic tailoring, fanning optimism among retailers.

Still, buyers are behaving cautiously, shunning risky trends and plotting budget increases mostly in the single-digit range.

“Even though the clothes are marvelous, the reality is people are still being careful, so we’re going to try to give them choices that are useful and, hopefully, irresistible,” said Linda Dresner, owner of Linda Dresner in Birmingham, Mich.

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director at Neiman Marcus, said designers showing in the French capital took the best ideas from the Sixties and Seventies and spun them forward into luxurious, minimal sportswear. “The newest direction is the embracing of this very pared-down, uberchic spirit,” he said.

Many retailers credited Phoebe Philo, who showed her first collection for Celine in October, for ushering in the change, sweeping away excess decoration and what had been a glut of cocktail attire. Nevertheless, some cautioned that an overload of plain clothes could be risky.

“We need to be careful with not going too heavy into the very clean look, along with the color camel and heavy fabric weights, as it can become too repetitive,” noted Sarah Rutson, fashion director at Hong Kong-based Lane Crawford. “We are looking wherever we can to add fabric interest, detailing, color, print and lighter weights.”

Buyers praised a return to sportswear and day clothes, particularly men’s wear tailoring and pantsuits, roomy outerwear, leather clothing, fur and feather trims, military details and innovative knitwear.

“These are clothes that will merchandise beautifully because they’re so structured,” said Barbara Atkin, vice president and fashion director at Canada’s Holt Renfrew. “This isn’t a shapeless season where they fall off the hanger.”

In accessories, embellished bags and boots — from booties up to thigh boots — were cited among key items.

Collections winning kudos from retailers included Celine, Givenchy, Dries Van Noten, Chanel, Lanvin, Junya Watanabe, Dior, Haider Ackermann and Balenciaga. Buyers also cited a poignant moment viewing the final 16 couture pieces by the late Lee Alexander McQueen, who committed suicide last month.

Here’s what buyers had to say about the season.

Andrew Keith, president, Joyce: “It’s good to be on the market having had a very strong fall-winter 2009 and great performance for spring. We will be getting behind collections that we felt delivered. There’s a move towards a clean, chic and refined aesthetic with coats and tailoring being key. Many designers chose to play with texture rather than color and so we saw a lot of mixes of leather, fur and feathers adding depth and contrast. Celine was a standout. Givenchy, Dries Van Noten, Junya Watanabe and Ann Demeulemeester showed strong collections. The coats and pleated skirts at Yohji were wonderful. Anthony Vaccarello has a very modern and sophisticated edge. But my lasting memory of this season will be the McQueen presentation, which was achingly beautiful and a very emotional and poignant experience.”

Tiziana Cardini, fashion director, La Rinascente: “Overall, Paris was a very good season. A creative interpretation of wearability was the common thread throughout all the collections. The aesthetic is much more for a mature woman — pared down, but not severe. Outerwear was definitely a focal point and Paris, perhaps for the first time, has aligned itself with an international trend, which is very interesting and says a lot about our times. In terms of standout collections, Celine and Lanvin are redefining how women are dressing. Azzedine Alaïa, Givenchy, Haider Ackermann, Roland Mouret, Rochas, Miu Miu and Vionnet were also strong. We are paying attention to prices, but designers have been very responsible.”

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director, Neiman Marcus: “All of the love and appreciation for sportswear is new to our eyes, plus the new direction of pared-down elegance. It has a real modernity to it. There’s still that bit of romantic spirit, too, as in all the beautiful Chantilly lace at Valentino. Velvet and leather are major trends, and I’m loving all the innovative outerwear: capes, ponchos, utilitarian details, vests, and there’s certainly a roomier coat this season. Browns and camels look new, and we like all the greens we’re seeing, the olives and military shades to emeralds and deep bottle greens. There’s a lot of fur and feathers throughout Paris, adding lightness and whimsy to clothes, shoes and even handbags. It really speaks to designers tempting the consumer. We’re seeing a real optimism throughout the market. Our favorite collections were Dries Van Noten, Givenchy, Celine, Lanvin and Balenciaga for the outerwear.”

Marigay McKee, fashion and beauty director at Harrods: “Paris brands have been driving our trade for a few seasons now. We have focused our growth in purchases on those brands already performing off the charts for us. Chanel, Lanvin, Balmain and Balenciaga are all hard to keep in stock. We have added Nina Ricci, as Peter Copping has done such an incredible job. Prices were very much in line with last season’s. Best trends: the return of the kitten heel and wedge; the continuation of the bootie and skinny pant; fur, fur, fur; leather pants and leggings; continuation of the sporty trend; studs; animal print, and feminine frills, bows and ruffles. Shoulders are still in the spotlight. Best colors — nudes, neutrals, beiges, greiges, grays, camels and, of course, black — and a lot of winter white, which is fashionista fabulous.
“There were so many truly sensational pieces and the creativity behind some of the shows that was truly theatrical, including Karl Lagerfeld’s 265-ton Chanel iceberg and Lanvin’s tribal effects and pounding drum sounds. Chloé was fab — very “Love Story.” Best collections were Lanvin, Chloé, Balmain and Givenchy.”

Colleen Sherin, fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue: “A definite shift took place in Paris, with a move towards a more pared-down way of dressing, and a focus on luxurious fabrications, tailoring and discreet design details. Phoebe Philo at Celine has been highly influential. That said, there was still much on offer in terms of more opulent design, with fur and fur trims and ornate embellishments. Key items and categories include statement coats, from sporty varieties to full-on furs; leather and leather trims; a new pant silhouette with a slight flare; knitwear, fine and sheer or chunky and highly textured, and more classic colorations of camel, gray, navy and black. Alexander McQueen’s presentation was incredibly beautiful, thoughtful and moving. Other standout collections include Celine, Chanel, Dior, Nina Ricci, Ann Demeulemeester and Valentino.”

Polina Kitsenko, co-owner, Podium, Moscow: “I found it was a pretty normal, good Paris Fashion Week, with nothing outstanding and no new discoveries. Our three favorite collections were Givenchy, Celine and Chanel. I also liked Costume National. Trends were very diverse. We saw Forties, Fifties ladylike, but at the same time, lots of gauze and brocades. Our budget is pretty stable. Happily, there were no more comments about the crisis. One good thing is showrooms have stopped being so pushy on minimums and now give us the freedom of ordering what we want. I think the crisis has taught people to be more free. We didn’t notice any brands lowering prices, and for some of the [top-tier] luxury brands, sometimes the prices are really outrageous.”

Averyl Oates, chief buying director, Harvey Nichols, London: “We are optimistic for autumn-winter, and have increased budgets accordingly. Our business is most buoyant in the young contemporary arena and top-end luxury. We are keen to broaden our assortment accordingly. Our new Celine boutique represents a new minimalism and reflects the current customer desire to invest in key, unique pieces. We are also excited about introducing Altuzarra, Hakaan, Vionnet and Haider Ackermann into our brand mix. The established luxury customer has continued to shop in a more discreet manner, but still values the craftsmanship, fabrication and quality that the best brands in the world continue to offer. On a special note, Alexander McQueen delivered an exquisitely romantic vision of historical femininity and beauty that was the perfect epitaph for the great designer himself. We look forward to continuing to build his strong legacy within Harvey Nichols.”

Kelly Golden, owner, Neapolitan, Winnetka, Ill.: “Budgets are up about 15 percent. Trends such as fur and leather were very prominent, as well as the long, lean silhouette. We’ll be investing in lots of over-the-knee boots, interesting knitwear, anything military influenced, vests, capelets and fur. Commercially, it was a strong season: practical, wearable and sensible, yet special, interesting and luxurious. Standout collections were Christian Dior for the gorgeous equestrian jackets and playful knitwear; Yves Saint Laurent for modern capelets and tech fabrics; Andrew Gn for his lavish military-style jackets and gorgeous eveningwear, and Lanvin for its take on the modern, independent woman. Accessories continue to be prominent on the runways, and will be a larger part of our fall budget than in past seasons. Overall, we are very optimistic.”

Nicole Fischelis, vice president and fashion director, Macy’s: “Fall trends include military, active, utility; ethnic, nomadic, bohemian; Fifties and early Sixties, with full-skirt and -dress inspiration; furs in ready-to-wear and across accessories from shoes to handbags, and fabric manipulations such as inserts, appliqués, patchworks, collages. Craft continues, with ruffled dressing, pleating and skilled asymmetry. I saw lots of architectural sleeve and shoulder interest. Camel hair, blanket wools, velvet and lace are key fabrics, and layered sheer is the new sheer. Favorite shows included Jean Paul Gaultier, Lanvin, Karl Lagerfeld, Rick Owens, Vivienne Westwood, Chloé, Givenchy, Maison Martin Margiela, Akris and Kenzo. As for the new generation to watch: Quentin Veron, Anne Valérie Hash, Nicolas Andreas Taralis, Sharon Wauchob, Felipe Oliveira Baptista.”

Sarah Rutson, fashion director, Lane Crawford: “Paris certainly was far stronger than Milan. Lane Crawford buys more out of Paris and this is certainly going to continue to be our primary market, along with American designers and brands. Feather and fur mixes dominated runways along with capes and the Sixties sneaking in. The major move is the cleaned-up perennial ‘classics’ in tailoring and outerwear. Celine has really spearheaded this whole movement and many designers have followed suit this season. Givenchy’s lace and printed knits will fly out. Haider Ackermann is in a strong place on our portfolio. Lanvin and Balenciaga are among my top performers, as are Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen. Every detail and piece at McQueen was perfection: A privilege to see it and heartbreaking that this is Lee’s last collection. The business has been growing at an incredible rate for the past three seasons.”

Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice president of designer merchandising, Nordstrom: “Paris offered great clarity in the very studied, clean and precise point of view offered in many collections. It looked modern and was expressed in outerwear, knitwear, suitings and even dresses. One of my favorite looks at Celine was the navy turtleneck sweater that was slightly longer in the back, with a white shirt underneath and navy pants. It was absolute perfection. Or look number one at Givenchy: the beige coat with a black pant and red jeweled bag. It was dazzling. I had seven favorite collections: Givenchy, Celine, Lanvin, Balenciaga, Haider Ackermann, Dries Van Noten and Azzedine Alaïa. We’ll spend more in Paris than last season. Last fall was very good for us and spring is off to a great start.”

Stephanie Solomon, vice president of fashion direction, Bloomingdale’s: “This is absolutely the center of the universe when it comes to creativity, to energy and to new ideas. All of the big names hit the nail on the head again this season. It is absolutely a season for outerwear. I have no doubt that the consumer will be opening her wallet next fall. We’ve been in a cycle of froufrou and frills and decoration for a long time now. It’s time for us to pare down a bit. I loved Stella McCartney’s show. I thought she took the architecture of the Sixties — those geometric shapes, the A-line, the crisp tailoring — and made it ubermodern. Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel was brilliant, not just the transportation of the iceberg, but the idea of fake fur used in that way. It was just so creative and inspirational.”

Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman: “This was clearly a season where what’s less is more. Tailoring was at the core of many collections. We liked the re-emergence of sportswear dressing, especially the focus on the new classic coats, great pants and real trousers beyond the skinny, and skirt and pantsuits that will appeal to generations of women who haven’t experienced them before. These are clothes with built-in reality and longevity. Important materials include long-haired fur, leather, velvet, mixed media and knit dressing. We will be watching our buys to best balance a potentially overunified message with enough surprise and emotion-producing novelty. Special mention to Phoebe Philo at Celine for her importance as an influencer. Standout collections include Givenchy, Chanel, Lanvin, Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens and Junya Watanabe.”

Ikram Goldman, owner, Ikram, Chicago: “It’s impossible not to go over budget in a season like this. Designers have gone back to incredible, luxurious basics: A jacket is a jacket, a skirt is a skirt, a sweater is a sweater — and they are so flawlessly made you can’t resist. For example, at Nina Ricci, the textures in black made you excited to have a black suit again. I loved the cropped pants this season, which puts the emphasis on the shoe or boots, and volume at the top in peacoats, capes or jackets. Nothing was harsh this season. My favorite collections were Celine, Lanvin, Givenchy, Junya Watanabe and Nina Ricci.”

 

[kimair]

paris continued...

Barbara Atkin, vice president and fashion director, Holt Renfrew: “Paris was exceptionally powerful. There was the stripped-down maturity we started seeing in Milan, but it was particularly special in Paris. There was a lot of structure, architectural design and detail. It was an amazing coat season from every collection, plus fur, leather and beautiful sculpted knits. We liked the longer hemline, which signals a change in everything, starting with the shoe, which will become more feminine. We had so many favorites: Dries Van Noten, Haider Ackermann, Celine, Givenchy, Balmain. One newcomer we’re bringing in is Gareth Pugh. We’re very optimistic. We’ve seen people coming back into the stores, looking for quality clothes. Our budgets are growing for Celine, Lanvin — for all of the brands we want to build. Business is on the upswing so we want to support that.”

Linda Dresner, owner, Linda Dresner, Birmingham, Mich.: “The collections generally have been very, very strong. There’s some similarity, which can be a dangerous thing, so we’re picking and choosing to have a variety of looks. There were amazing coats, the military influence, the Fifties influence, the pure, classic influence. We liked the classic pieces from Rick Owens and Dries Van Noten. Longer, fuller skirts looked really fresh. Celine has made a strong impression throughout the marketplace. You can see variations of the theme, so we need to pick the best pieces, otherwise there’s that old story of sameness. We also loved the Japanese designer Sacai: The collection was very animated with a Chanel-like feeling. The best coats were at Junya Watanabe. Yohji Yamamoto was sober, but elegant. Martin Margiela’s stand-away waistline gave a new, more modern impression.”

Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director, Barneys New York: “Paris affirms the season and this will be the one of ‘beautiful clothes.’ If it did not fit that criteria, it wasn’t bought. There has been a lot of talk about retail sales getting better. We noticed it to be true in our sales numbers, but we also know the fragility of predictions. Competition is tougher with the Internet being the ‘new store down the block’ and also with the continuation of discounts to try and entice the customer. Trends are important (minimalism, military, tailoring, leather, fur), but more so we realize that we must buy clothes that make sense to our customer. Clothes with great style, good value and pieces that have lasting wearability is where our business will be. Lanvin in the showroom was even more spectacular than the show. Rick Owens did one of his most special collections to date. Nina Ricci is tracking fast. Dries Van Noten had the perfect mix of retro beauty and military. Junya Watanabe nailed the army green trend. Stella McCartney brilliantly defined the season with a camel cardigan worn as a dress. Celine delivered a great collection where the new minimalism will make sense for our customer. And always to show last, and privately, is Azzedine Alaïa, who creates the most beautiful clothes in all the seasonal trends.”

Beth Buccini and Sarah Easley, co-owners, Kirna Zabête: “We think it has been a terrific season in Paris and our budgets are way up. We continue to really grow our businesses with Celine and Givenchy. We also loved Balenciaga, Lanvin, Stella McCartney and Balmain. As far as trends go, we loved the purity and simplicity of Celine and Stella McCartney; the techno richness at Balenciaga, Givenchy and Lanvin, and the opulence of Balmain. We have been able to strike a balance between directional fashion items and amazing investment pieces.”

 

[Squizree]

Wow, Dolce & Gabbana and Lanvin are mentioned by just about everyone in their category.

 

[Uemarasan]

The buyer from Moscow has to be the most unimaginative of the bunch. Paris had so much more to offer. I'm not impressed with the buyers from Bloomingdale's and Neapolitan, either. I am glad to read Dries Van Noten, Junya Watanabe, and Haider Ackermann mentioned so many times, along with a couple of mentions for Ann Demeulemeester and Yohji Yamamoto. I do wish that there were more mentions of Kenzo, though. There was not even one of Antonio Marras's Milan collection (the best of the season, in my opinion). And no room for Sophia Kokosalaki? Nicole Fischelis and Linda Dresner are the buyers with the most vision.

The Milan report is basically worthless. Oh well, there isn't much to take away from Milan in the first place, anyway.

 

[Leeroi]

I'm glad Yohji and Junya were mentioned. Lanvin was pretty much obvious, that collection was one of the best and very wearable.

 

[FashionPower]

The Dolce collection will sell like nuts,since every buyer mentioned it!
I'm so happy about Roberto Cavalli and Pucci,because they are my top 1 and 3 collection of the season...still kinda not satisfied about Versace...why don't they want to support Donatella?

 

[AGiles]

Very Glad Givenchy is again a hit!

 

[reese06]

The Dolce collection will sell like nuts,since every buyer mentioned it!
I'm so happy about Roberto Cavalli and Pucci,because they are my top 1 and 3 collection of the season...still kinda not satisfied about Versace...why don't they want to support Donatella?

Because that collection was absolutely dreadful. She was mentioned by quite a few buyers last season which was well deserved.

 

[Salvatore]

Because that collection was absolutely dreadful. She was mentioned by quite a few buyers last season which was well deserved.

Very right . It started around FW 2006 when the buyers were starting to mention Versace frequently in a good way . But the latest collection was a step backwards, unfortunately .

 

[jun3machina]

Go Marc Go!