Céline Pre-Fall 2017

[Nymphaea]

vogue

 

[Nymphaea]

vogue

 

[dior_couture1245]

Something feels off and a bit stale, here.

I'd like see Phoebe and her team move forward in some way. A bit more glamour? A bit more sex appeal? The sort of subtle and modest gallerista look is losing steam for me and doesn't feel as directional any longer. Is it still beautiful? Attractive? Sure. But a bit off the pulse at this point, nonetheless.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ ^^^ Let’s steal a little from Margiela, a little from Lemaire, and a lot from Gaultier… And the kidz will lap it all up cos it's Phoebe and Celine.

It’s still nice.

Thanks Nymphaea.

 

[Lola701]

I like Celine by Philo so i like it. It's good, decent. It's really nothing new but Celine is more about freshness than newness.

It's maybe time for them to update the shapes. Those shirts and pants have been in the shops for quite some times now...

^^^ ^^^ Let’s steal a little from Margiela, a little from Lemaire, and a lot from Gaultier… And the kidz will lap it all up cos it's Phoebe and Celine.

Let's be honest, it's not like Phoebe has ever been that original at Celine. She is a great curator or DJ. Since the very first collection, she has shown her ability to revisit the work of her peers: Pilati, Beene, Tom Ford for Gucci, Balenciaga by Ghesquiere, Margiela's Hermes, Margiela, Gaultier, CDG, Lang...etc.

I've said that her work is about making things fresh, twist them, break them and give it a new attitude.

It's funny when i look at her early collections or when i wear some of her earlier Celine stuff, i kinda feel like it doesn't come from the same mind/brand.
It was much more seductive, sexy, body-conscious, street and life friendly.

Something is very interesting about Celine. Phoebe surely broke fashion and dominated fashion from 2009-10 to 2015 and now, she is at her most radical ever in terms of fashion proposition but her work on the other hand feels very trendy. Those clothes and this styling is very trendy and i'm sure she wants to be out of trend and to be somewhere like Margiela or Alaia: A staple and at the same time a real laboratory.

But still a beautiful collection. I might buy that hat!

 

[perhydrol]

It's funny when i look at her early collections or when i wear some of her earlier Celine stuff, i kinda feel like it doesn't come from the same mind/brand.

Because it doesn't come from the same mind. Phoebe relies on her team so much (and it can change any time, like with Matthieu Blazy who worked there for one season I think) and that's why I feel like her own voice is more and more missing. But this team work is getting quite stale with 'the controled mess' etc.

This collection is quite good, but I don't feel the vibe. It feels empty in a way and that makes the whole collection unattractive to me.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Because it doesn't come from the same mind. Phoebe relies on her team so much (and it can change any time, like with Matthieu Blazy who worked there for one season I think) and that's why I feel like her own voice is more and more missing. But this team work is getting quite stale with 'the controled mess' etc.

This collection is quite good, but I don't feel the vibe. It feels empty in a way and that makes the whole collection unattractive to me.

^^Exactly ! Phoebe mostly edits what her team does. The collections were quite amazing imo with Nadège Cybulski, then conceptual with Matthieu Blazy and now i don't know. I am still in love. Phoebe and her team delivers always interesting collection in terms of prints, shape and styling but it becomes more and more marginal-ish when i used to prefer when the main source was Helmut Lang's collections.

 

[tricotineacetat]

After Celine went through several head-of-collection designers under Phoebe Philo as was already mentioned, I feel like the Celine look could be everything and nothing, to be perfectly honest. 90ies Margiela / Margiela at Hermes, Helmut Lang and a Yohji-meets-Anne Marie Beretta-style have been championed in fashion for a good while now, I fail to see what Celine does different these days than COS, other than to do the same thing on a luxury level.

 

[Nymphaea]

This feels like she did what she was required to do and nothing more.

 

[Creative]

Strong and desirable. I like it.

 

[StockholmFW]

Love it! Phoebe always delivers.

 

[YohjiAddict]

After Celine went through several head-of-collection designers under Phoebe Philo as was already mentioned, I feel like the Celine look could be everything and nothing, to be perfectly honest. 90ies Margiela / Margiela at Hermes, Helmut Lang and a Yohji-meets-Anne Marie Beretta-style have been championed in fashion for a good while now, I fail to see what Celine does different these days than COS, other than to do the same thing on a luxury level.

I think you nailed the exact reason I've grown tired of her work, it always looks like somebody else's. The way I see it, she's the one who put herself in this situtation: with each new season a brand new array of cuts and aesthetical references would be introduced just to be dropped the next.

That's the difference between her and those designers she takes as an inspiration, they managed to have a memorable and recognizable body of work by staying commited with their respective style and techniques while pushing their ideas forward into new territory, in a way that felt coherent and believable. Pheobe on the other side has turned her main strenght into her weakness, being a designer-aesthecist means that she can quickly craft a bouquet of reference points but it also means that she burns through ideas at a rate that makes it impossible for her to actually make them feel meaningful for the brand. All in all is obvious to me that she needs to reconsider her methods.

 

[whitewine82]

There is something very seducing in this clothes, I like it. We all have seen all this before, but it's interesting how this clothes talks in a very unique way. Bravo!