Celine Cruise 2026 Paris | Page 3 | the Fashion Spot
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Celine Cruise 2026 Paris

Like what happens at every brand after Hedi arrives, he leaves after creating a very vast merchandise driven uniform/lifestyle-a-fying the brand and then those conglomerates want to keep pushing the revenues but so much has been spent on changing everything.
As people have said loyal Hedi followers follow him to every brand he goes, he changed everything after Phoebe left and her customers couldn't buy anything from him, so if some Hedi shoppers can't buy from this, it happens.. though it's a bridging between the two as almost everyone has said (for sure the LVMH brief).

The styling, Shoes, Leathergoods, Jewellery, Sunglasses were all terrible for me though
 
Considering that Bernard Arnaud hired Hedi precisely to achieve this result (otherwise it would have been impossible to meet with such an ambitioned increase of revenue), Michael Rider is the right guy to ensure Celine’s restructuring and wider market expansion remains intact while at the same time giving the people of Phoebe Philo’s era something they can relate to.

A mix of both worlds makes sense, since Hedi’s tailoring and staples could very well mix with Phoebe’s Celine. On the other hand, I would love to see a few of Phoebe-era bags to return, like the box with it’s super-reduced design and the square clasp (still a perfect day bag).
Even the logos thing is very Hedi. The foulard thing is more Phoebe though…
I also hope to see a few bags from the Phoebe era comeback and I saw some things that are reminiscent of that.

Rider was a logical and pragmatic choice. Celine wasn’t going to have another 360 degree change anyway.

Those brands have to have an identity and so far I think, despite the chaos, it looked bourgeois, rive gauche RTW…Céline.
 
Casting by Samuel Ellis & Styling by Brian Molloy according to Karim Sadli's story
 
I felt it was quite chaotic, as he seemed to be trying to merge two previously successful aesthetics: Phoebe Philo’s and Hedi Slimane’s.

The result felt messy and not always cohesive. The menswear, in particular, seemed weak to me, and the styling wasn’t top-notch (Brian Molloy obviously). The casting was also underwhelming for the most part.

We knew this wouldn’t be an easy task. He has to bring back Philo’s clientele without alienating those who came on board during Slimane’s era.

I had a hard time figuring out his point of view, though I don’t hate what he showed us today. That said, I usually don’t place too much weight on a debut collection. I prefer to wait a full year before forming a solid opinion.

(The soundtrack was great though!)
 
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Pros:
- Lots of nice individual pieces
- The styling - multiple bags, coats draped over arms, layered belts, jewellery etc. - felt relaxed and less precious than normal
- The soundtrack

Cons:
- No obvious overarching theme or aesthetic vision
- The models sprinting through a poorly designed runway. The logo seating in the courtyard was a nice idea, but the models were pushing to get past one another and the audience looked uncomfortable.
 
Considering that Bernard Arnaud hired Hedi precisely to achieve this result (otherwise it would have been impossible to meet with such an ambitioned increase of revenue), Michael Rider is the right guy to ensure Celine’s restructuring and wider market expansion remains intact while at the same time giving the people of Phoebe Philo’s era something they can relate to.

A mix of both worlds makes sense, since Hedi’s tailoring and staples could very well mix with Phoebe’s Celine. On the other hand, I would love to see a few of Phoebe-era bags to return, like the box with it’s super-reduced design and the square clasp (still a perfect day bag).
But do we need to shop at Celine in 2025 for the Phoebe’s look when Phoebe Philo (the brand) exists?

But back to the collection, the styling is wild. I always hate the pile-everything-on-top-of-each-other trick. It’s not cool, it’s just messy and a bit show off. But I will give Michael more grace because he has (2) bigs shoes to fill. Hopefully he will find his voice too because this Celine is a bit confusing.
 
its like a slot machine of all hedi's celine, only you never hit any 3 of the same. i expect 0 changes in their merch and them hoping people would not care hedi isnt there anymore
It will be gradual I think.
Of course 4 years at Balenciaga under NG and 10 years at Celine by PP makes me a great professional but I think that his tenure at Ralph Lauren and what he did indicates that he will work at the service of the house.

In a way, he has the perfect profile to be at Hermes. But he is at Celine.

And eventually, people will not care Hedi isn’t there. And I actually think that this time, the brand is preserved. Rider is a complete designer…Something that Vaccarello isn’t.
Cons:
- No obvious overarching theme or aesthetic vision
- The models sprinting through a poorly designed runway. The logo seating in the courtyard was a nice idea, but the models were pushing to get past one another and the audience looked uncomfortable.
I think it’s difficult to go for a theme when you start with resort though…
He could have started with a main runway show in October but obviously it’s a business/pragmatic decision to hold a show for a pre-collection.

You know what, I think the rain was the biggest con because indeed, everything felt rushed because it had to end before it started to pour rain!

And yes, models coming from different ways even at a fast pace is just a lot.
They will survive. It’s not their first run anyway…
 
Now that Hedi is no longer there, I don't think I'm interested in buying anymore.... but at least it's somewhat different from the other Celine designers, and it does catch my interest.

Surprised that no one mentioned how very Celine by Céline Vipiana this is. I'm not very familiar with the old Celine, but I noticed a lot of vintage details, even the old logo:


celine_1.webp
fashiongtonpost
 
Considered the huge legacies of his predecessors, I think Michael did a great job of balancing both Phoebe and Hedi codes in his debut. I would like to see more of Michael 's POV next seasons.

The menswear is really good. It's the perfect mix of Hedi and Ralph Lauren style. The crop leather jackets (look 27 and 44) are sublime.
The womenswear could use some edit. But my favorite look is look 46, very Phoebe coded.
Obviously there are details that leave me quite underwhelming. The first thing is the styling. Just no from me, the gold jewelry really drag the looks down, make some outfits look really heavy-handed. He needs to get the right stylist next season, it's crucial.

Overall a decent debut. I'm eager to see more.
 

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