Celine Menswear S/S 2024 Paris

[Frederic01]

WWD

 

[Frederic01]

WWD

 

[Frederic01]

CELINE

 

[Yasouss]

Delusional daydream indeed…

It’s more less what it’s always been. The poufs and what are seem new but will likely not make it to the shops. The erratic videography really needs to stop.

 

[MulletProof]

lol every ballet dancer's worst nightmare, basically Hedi exclusively lusting after torso, zero shots of extensions except for a full shot at 5:48 when he's kind of doing nothing haha but hey, dancers are always broke, and I'm sure they paid well so.. probably worth it.

Everything else looks recycled, including the set (at least we now know where the window displays from 2014 ended up).

 

[yslforever]

I want to comment but I don't like to complain, so I won't.

 

[jeanclaude]

"The Ramones" punk rock meets glam rock Jobriath crossdressing?? Meh...!

 

[Constructionist]

"I'm losing my edge"

Yea, I thought that as well.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

This is just super corny. Only liked the closing look, because the model seemed the most organic and at ease with their look compared to the forced "cool" gaits of the others. The coverup was a bit Diana Ross meets Watanabe or A.F. Vandevorst and I'm into it.

 

[avonlea002]

Nothing to write home about but it's so rare these days to see someone with such confidence and distinct vision. Hedi is a genius when it comes to image making.

 

[LadyJunon]

*cackles in Vaccarello*

 

[Kimihiro]

*cackles in Vaccarello*

Not with his menswear. Probably never.

It’s one of the least convincing shows he did for Celine. Feels forced. His menswear always had a feminine touch but here he went overboard and “lost his edge.”

 

[PierreGotha]

This is the alternative and compromise from the cancelled menswear show last july.
I'm kind of seeing a pattern here where he kept both womenswear and menswear shows within the 10-minute frame.

This time, I think his womenswear is the strongest. This show and presentation looks like an after-thought and it's definitely lacking that Slimane sting where you know he was so specific about it, that it turns into a pièce de résistance.

As for the soundtrack, is he trying to be ironic or giving us an ominous disclosure?

 

[youthinasia]

At least he's consistent in his obsession with skinny twinkies

 

[Lola701]

I think this is probably one of his worst collection. It feels gimmicky…
I kept thinking a lot about him and Nicolas Ghesquière because they are both very into that idea of androgyny. Nicolas has been for years now dressing men in womenswear and Hedi has always have that ability to appeal to both gender and even to blur genders…
Here, it’s very Billy Porter-ish. It’s quite uninspired and I must say that it lacks the usual cool and inventivity of his work.

And it’s quite limited in terms of styling too.

I think the set is fantastic but it’s probably the only positive aspect of this collection.

 

[disco54]

cross dressing twinks rejoice!

 

[Overindulgence]

It's clear that the suiting is for the Celine male clientele and the more experimental/"androgynous" pieces are for the Celine women clientele who don't want the French riviera clothes of Celine womenswear. His past Celine Homme collections blurred that line better.

In retrospect, Celine Homme S/S 2022, F/W 2022, and S/S 2023 was when he was putting in effort - or at least experimenting with some new ideas. Those shows had great energy and did androgyny correct. The Homme shows have all been a bit stale starting with the Wiltern show, ever since he's been on his 2000s indie nostalgia run.

I still think he has his finger on the pulse nonetheless in many ways though.

 

[disco54]

The Art Deco background is the only thing nice but for that you need something glamorous and louche. A 30s/40s inspired collection meets slinky Studio 54 Disco glamor, this collection is more grimey CBGBs with the a twink version of the Ramones as inspiration. I feel this brand will fall apart rapidly once Hedi leaves and these dull autopilot collections tell me he is approaching that phase.

 

[Lola701]

The Art Deco background is the only thing nice but for that you need something glamorous and louche. A 30s/40s inspired collection meets slinky Studio 54 Disco glamor, this collection is more grimey CBGBs with the a twink version of the Ramones as inspiration. I feel this brand will fall apart rapidly once Hedi leaves and these dull autopilot collections tell me he is approaching that phase.

For me it’s clear that the success of Hedi at Celine is more of the result of great merchandising overall than great, standout collections.
I’m even starting to question the need for those collections that are shown outside of the calendar and released on random dates approaching the drops in boutiques.

I don’t feel like a Hedi show is an event anymore. It’s not even laziness because I think that if he just redid his Dior Homme or Saint Laurent menswear it would have some sort of tension to it.

This collection and the ones we have seen so far this year just looks like a permanent collection with some added pieces from here and there.

I’ve always been for Hedi as a menswear force and legend but if even there, he starting to disappoint…I don’t know what to say!

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Take away the silly women’s clickbait tops (he’s better than this), and distilled to its base of luxuriously-produced classic leather bottoms, rocker leather jackets and leather boots, it's classic Dior Homme. Perhaps dated— or just staples by this point since everyone else has co-opted his Dior Homme. But there’s no denying his straightforward, straightup and smouldering leather pieces are supreme and stand the test of fashion times. It’s the gimmicks that drag him down.

The location is decadently gorgeous. And if it weren’t for the annoying intercutting with the ballerina, this would have been a stellar presentation. Eh.