Chanel F/W 2024.25 Paris

[Caffeine]

https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/gallery/chanel-rtw-fall-2015-2/chanel-rtw-fall-2015-17/

Just throw this out there.
Are they even remotely comparable?

 

[Kanzai]

Well people buy Chanel just because it's "Chanel". Most of their customer don't even know who the f*ck Virginie Viard is tbh

 

[Nimsay]

What. This appears to be one of her best at Chanel and is seeming to finally hit her stride. A bunch of chic clothes that are rather bland but still made to chanel quality.

 

[Lola701]

Actually, Chanel has become extremely popular with younger buyers. The merchandising strategy since Viard took over has been a real success. I work in finance, and the office floors are just dripping with girls in Chanel - accessories, purses, ballerina shoes, sweaters. It's crazy. And these people don't seem to have any sense of style or even really care about capital-F fashion.

There was quite a lot in this show to like - I can see many of the separates working well for many types of women.

But I do not understand those big floppy sun hats. They were so distracting and look completely out of place with the clothes. Vile.

Exactly.
The reality is that the success of Chanel since 1983 has been in it capacity to attract younger customer and yet still talk to the more mature crowd.
When Karl took over he tried to talk to younger women which by the standards of that time were in the late 20’s and early 00’s. Ines De La Fressange was 25, Princess Caroline was around the same age. But at the same time, it was also about Madame Pompidou, Madame Chirac and the Femmes du Monde. It has always been that.

The difference was that Karl was a Couturier. The artistic value of his work triumphed because there was a competition among all those designers. The reward was the commercial success but the creative integrity remained.

I was into Chanel super young! I saw that Fall 1993 Haute Couture show on TV and realized that it was something! I saved to buy my first Chanel item at 19.

I went to the show with my 25 years old niece. She saved and bought her first Chanel item, a pair of slingback at 24. In the attendance there were young girls probably her age who were already in full Chanel! We were next to a couple..They weren’t 30 but the man was wearing just a Chanel beanie and sneakers but the woman was in full Chanel by Virginie.
Yesterday evening, Chanel had an event at La Bibliothèque Nationale for the clients and those events are particularly targeted to their younger clients.

The reality is that Karl has done the job. He has restored the prestige of the house. Now, the brand is just pouring stuff to those young clients who are thirsty for luxury…Not fashion!
I would never buy a classic bag at retail today. But those young girls would. Not because it’s worth it but because it’s expensive…And much like with what’s going on in the Couture client thread, Chanel is viewed as the epitome of style and good taste.
So no matter how tacky you can be, being dripped in Chanel means for some people that you are chic, even if your conception of chic involves a loads of tacky logos on your outfit. But it also means that you are super-rich…

 

[Caffeine]

Or to summarize...
You were drawn to Chanel for Karl's vision and fashion.
The young girls today were drawn to Chanel for the perceived status.
no?

 

[mistress_f]

This is so bad... I can't say I've enjoyed a single thing she's done at the house, but her biggest crime - and it so blatantly applies here - is that everything she makes, from rtw to couture, is extremely undesirable. How the hell do you make chanel undesirable??? Even at his lowest, Karl's collections always had a sparkle. This? this is nothing, a frumpy overpriced whole of nothing.

 

[Nimsay]

Or to summarize...
You were drawn to Chanel for Karl's vision and fashion.
The young girls today were drawn to Chanel for the perceived status.
no?

Whats the difference ? Without KLs vision Chanel would not have its perceived status. Also having cute clothes is not enough to create this kind of devotion. The clothes are heirloom quality and everything you get will last 3 decades; only keeping up with cleaning it.

 

[Caffeine]

Whats the difference ? Without KLs vision Chanel would not have its perceived status. Also having cute clothes is not enough to create this kind of devotion. The clothes are heirloom quality and everything you get will last 3 decades; only keeping up with cleaning it.

They were.
Have you looked at the jackets lately?
A few seasons ago, I was informed that the clothes were now made "lighter" by reducing the hidden fabric inside the seams. One of the selling point was that you could let the clothes out along the way and have the jackets age gracefully with you. I suppose that they are less adaptable now.
I agree with what you said "Without KLs vision Chanel would not have its perceived status". I'm simply suggesting that Chanel is now taking it for granted.
Why aren't we allowed to have a little higher standard? Don't we deserve more when spending $10,000 for a jacket?

 

[yslforever]

Just watched the vid after Louis Vuitton, I should not have done that... it makes me despise Viard and Chanel even more... It's a dead brand.

 

[Caffeine]

Just watched the vid after Louis Vuitton, I should not have done that... it makes me despise Viard and Chanel even more... It's a dead brand.

I did the opposite...was depressed by this show and then lightened up by LV

 

[Lola701]

Or to summarize...
You were drawn to Chanel for Karl's vision and fashion.
The young girls today were drawn to Chanel for the perceived status.
no?

Yes exactly. But I must say also that it wasn’t about the idea of luxury. I think today it’s about luxury as you know.
I later discovered Karl’s work for Chloe, Lagerfeld and Fendi. It was mostly about Karl but the sensibility of his Chanel touched me more.
I’m not sure I would have been into Chanel so much if it wasn’t for Karl.
Galliano was fabulous for Dior but Dior is not my thing..

I think for the new generation it’s just luxurious, expensive clothes. It’s not about a style…

I guess the reason why we are all here is because we care about fashion and style. It’s a pity that it’s lost…

 

[RaisinBoy]

the video in the background is so bad and dumb. who did that?!?!?!

 

[yslforever]

the video in the background is so bad and dumb. who did that?!?!?!

If it's dumb and bad it's probably someone chosen by Virginie...

 

[zoom]

despise. delete. discard.

 

[matheus_s]

somehow those hats make me think about Marc Jacobs fall 2012 and fall 2007

 

[WAVES]

this is her best collection to date. a lot of good separate pieces which also means that it’s a totally product-driven production with close to none originality or creativity. she tried to do that with those hats.

the styling was the great saviour of this collection for most of the looks.

does Chanel deserve a real unique and original designer? of course. I’ve said many times who.

 

[Creative]

I think for the new generation it’s just luxurious, expensive clothes. It’s not about a style…

I guess the reason why we are all here is because we care about fashion and style. It’s a pity that it’s lost…

That’s completely true tho.

Anyways, I don’t see Chanel anywhere anymore. I work in fashion, I see very rich people all the time, and no one is interested in Chanel, no one is wearing their bags anymore, at least in Europe. In Asia and North America might be different… Last hit was the garbage-bag bag… and it wasn’t even as huge as the ugly Gabrielle.

I think Chanel is just for new money tacky girls atm that think the more expensive the better. The products in store are hideous.

The brand is in a grey era. It’s true I have no clue who could do it well aside from Phoebe (or maybe not, who knows).

 

[yslforever]

That’s completely true tho.

Anyways, I don’t see Chanel anywhere anymore. I work in fashion, I see very rich people all the time, and no one is interested in Chanel, no one is wearing their bags anymore, at least in Europe. In Asia and North America might be different… Last hit was the garbage-bag bag… and it wasn’t even as huge as the ugly Gabrielle.

I think Chanel is just for new money tacky girls atm that think the more expensive the better. The products in store are hideous.

The brand is in a grey era. It’s true I have no clue who could do it well aside from Phoebe (or maybe not, who knows).

Sarah Burton ? Hedi ? Haider ? Theyskens ?
I don't know who could do Chanel well, but many can do better than this... Also they need Vacarello for the artistic direction : show, campaigns, castings etc...

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Those hats with the boots... I can't make sense of it.

Like the Dakar show, there's something Edina Monsoon about this with the disparate ideas being jammed together to create a "fashion look". Admittedly I do think this is a nicer offering from her when you look at her collections, and the fabric choices seem much better than usual. Not too sure about the colours, but I often find a Chanel collection to often have strange colour mixes (even when Karl was there).

It doesn't have as much liveliness as Karl's show, which I will say I do miss even though I'm not a huge Karl person. I'm coming around to his work, but the sets were always bit of a moment. I do think that's what prevented a lot of younger clientele from not buying it though. It was very much part of it's own fantasy, teetering into a bit of a costume territory no matter how chic or easy the collection is. With the "dumbing down"- if that's the best way to put it - I think it has made younger and more clients at large see themselves in and with Chanel more easily.

That is the difficult task with personality in a fashion brand, especially a huge brand like Chanel. Too much of it and you can actually scare off potential clients because it makes them think they can't be part of it or they're not the right person for it. Makes things more niche, which I think is needed now more than ever but if you want the money to be flowing in, you have to strip that away in order to make it as approachable as possible.

Does mean the quality has gone down a bit (we all know that) but when you have that many new customers that are none the wiser, money is money. There is of course the polar opposite which is Nicolas at LV, but at the same time there's the runway collections, the shop floor and seasonal collections, the accessories, the bags, the men's side being by Pharrell... There's personality and the aura, but also an insane variety so anyone and anything can easily buy into it.

 

[jeanclaude]

As if this wouldn´t look deadstock enough, Virginie had to add those dated hats.
The collection was inspired by Deauville. I think Deauville Major should ban her for the rest of her life!