Chanel F/W 2024.25 Paris

Those hats with the boots... I can't make sense of it.

Like the Dakar show, there's something Edina Monsoon about this with the disparate ideas being jammed together to create a "fashion look". Admittedly I do think this is a nicer offering from her when you look at her collections, and the fabric choices seem much better than usual. Not too sure about the colours, but I often find a Chanel collection to often have strange colour mixes (even when Karl was there).

It doesn't have as much liveliness as Karl's show, which I will say I do miss even though I'm not a huge Karl person. I'm coming around to his work, but the sets were always bit of a moment. I do think that's what prevented a lot of younger clientele from not buying it though. It was very much part of it's own fantasy, teetering into a bit of a costume territory no matter how chic or easy the collection is. With the "dumbing down"- if that's the best way to put it - I think it has made younger and more clients at large see themselves in and with Chanel more easily.

That is the difficult task with personality in a fashion brand, especially a huge brand like Chanel. Too much of it and you can actually scare off potential clients because it makes them think they can't be part of it or they're not the right person for it. Makes things more niche, which I think is needed now more than ever but if you want the money to be flowing in, you have to strip that away in order to make it as approachable as possible.

Does mean the quality has gone down a bit (we all know that) but when you have that many new customers that are none the wiser, money is money. There is of course the polar opposite which is Nicolas at LV, but at the same time there's the runway collections, the shop floor and seasonal collections, the accessories, the bags, the men's side being by Pharrell... There's personality and the aura, but also an insane variety so anyone and anything can easily buy into it.
 
As if this wouldn´t look deadstock enough, Virginie had to add those dated hats.
The collection was inspired by Deauville. I think Deauville Major should ban her for the rest of her life!
 
I also thought this was Virginie’s most solid collection. But I still didn’t like it. I grew up watching Chanel shows because my mum would watch it on FTV. She’s a huge Chanel fan. I remember being inspired by the shows; the clothes, the sets, Karl’s iconic look (I used to be a little scared of him lol) Karl at Chanel really hits different. It has that sense of allure.

Looking at Chanel now, especially this collection, I feel like this maison lost its touch. The clothes/brand lost its sense of exclusivity. Now it’s just bordering on cheap and tacky. And I agree with the comments about it being cheap now because of the market it’s currently catering to. Where I’m from, the women my age worship Chanel not because they love the brand’s sensibilities or know its history or the creative director but because they think the bags will make them look expensive. Even if it doesn’t suit them. They think buying Chanel is a “good investment” which is really ridiculously cringey. Chanel needs a reset.
 
She hasnt slowed down Chanel's sales so I doubt she will be going anywhere soon. When it comes to selling online and instore, they get rid of the frumpy element and instead go the opposite way making it very young thus appealing to the Kpop and insta crowd who want to look like their chic grandmas.


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