Chanel Haute Couture F/W 2019.20 Paris

[Lola701]

upon checking the pics of detail. i have to ask what's up with her obsession with bow and tie? it's only her second collection, i already feel that bow is everywhere..........
please don't tell me she does this cause bow means femininity and elegance to her.......

Those are classic codes of the house. Coco used it everytime in her collections...At least her last few collections before her death. It was mostly a bow on the hair and a tie on a ensemble. Karl used it a lot also... Maybe with more humor, but it was as obsessive as her.

 

[bonnevie]

First of all, what a dull location to showcase a Chanel couture collection. The collection itself is well cut, but ultimately mundane in it's direction and style. She has 2 more seasons to impress me.

 

[Deleted member 141523]

Portishead and Massive Attack!

 

[TaylorBinque]

She is definitely not a bad designer. She knows how to make beautiful clothes. Everything is well made. Gorgeously executed. But it lacks vision. It's like a well-made classic wardrobe but it doesn't excite me. Even the gigantic set bores me. I wish she would just inject her style more into the look. It would have been much more fun.

 

[Erzébeth II]

I agree - well made but not pushing boundaries, which couture should.

 

[showtonic]

She is definitely not a bad designer. She knows how to make beautiful clothes. Everything is well made. Gorgeously executed. But it lacks vision. It's like a well-made classic wardrobe but it doesn't excite me. Even the gigantic set bores me. I wish she would just inject her style more into the look. It would have been much more fun.

aren't "well made" and "gorgeously executed" more of the atelier's job, while her job is more towards the "vision" portion? Personally, it's such a shame and disappointment that she lacks the vision and creativity as a CD of Chanel

 

[Lola701]

aren't "well made" and "gorgeously executed" more of the atelier's job, while her job is more towards the "vision" portion? Personally, it's such a shame and disappointment that she lacks the vision and creativity as a CD of Chanel

Not really, the designer also has a great part in the execution of at least in the ambition of the execution.
The designer has the idea but he also needs to be skilled enough to answer to all technical questions a seamstress can ask.

You saw it for example at Givenchy when John Galliano left and McQueen took over. It was the same Atelier but despite McQueen ambitious designs, there were some badly made outfits in his first show. His quality evolved during that time.

The same at Dior when Raf took over. Some of his most ambitious designs were badly made even though he was working with one of the most impressive Atelier in fashion.

You can easily loose the respect of an Atelier if as a designer, you don’t know about clothes-making.

It’s too early to tell anything about Virginie’s construction. The collection is very safe. But it’s true that it’s only with her vision that she can inspire and drive an Atelier. I don’t expect from her to put concrete on her dresses but only a really skilled designer can push an Atelier to that.

 

[chanelh]

I don’t expect from her to put concrete on her dresses but only a really skilled designer can push an Atelier to that.

hands down to the last sentence, haha, that collection was really good, a true example of Karl's crazy concept combines the perfect execution of Atelier and i don't expect her being able to pull off sth like that neither

 

[dior_couture1245]

Not really, the designer also has a great part in the execution of at least in the ambition of the execution.
The designer has the idea but he also needs to be skilled enough to answer to all technical questions a seamstress can ask.

You saw it for example at Givenchy when John Galliano left and McQueen took over. It was the same Atelier but despite McQueen ambitious designs, there were some badly made outfits in his first show. His quality evolved during that time.

The same at Dior when Raf took over. Some of his most ambitious designs were badly made even though he was working with one of the most impressive Atelier in fashion.

You can easily loose the respect of an Atelier if as a designer, you don’t know about clothes-making.

It’s too early to tell anything about Virginie’s construction. The collection is very safe. But it’s true that it’s only with her vision that she can inspire and drive an Atelier. I don’t expect from her to put concrete on her dresses but only a really skilled designer can push an Atelier to that.

This is all very true.

It’s rarer and rarer that designers today have a feel, understanding, vernacular and passion for the actual craft of clothes making...especially in Couture where these clothes are really “built.” The real work is so often hidden within the self and the lining. The more clearly and directly a designer can communicate his intention for each garment to the atelier, the better the results. When too much is left up to the Atelier to figure out, as Lola mentioned, the respect level can be damaged.